Valve Click
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From: houston
Surprised that your head porter/vendor suggested something like valve to valve.. That is all on him..A reputable shop would check that and make sure you had plenty of clearance based on your cam selection..
As @Tommy C said you'll have to clay the valve to piston.. Your looking for a minimum of .060". You might have to also make sure that the radius of the valve is smaller than the valve relief in the piston..
Who's pistons are those? Make and model.. You can look them up to make sure the valve radius cut out is large enough for your 1.90" valves.. it'll say in the description..
You said you ran the motor for a couple of Heat cycles.. I hope you didn't bend s valve..
As @Tommy C said you'll have to clay the valve to piston.. Your looking for a minimum of .060". You might have to also make sure that the radius of the valve is smaller than the valve relief in the piston..
Who's pistons are those? Make and model.. You can look them up to make sure the valve radius cut out is large enough for your 1.90" valves.. it'll say in the description..
You said you ran the motor for a couple of Heat cycles.. I hope you didn't bend s valve..
Theyre the pistons out of the S&S110 power pack P919441. I cant really find any information on the pistons specifically. I used Hammer Performance to do my head work and provided them all of this information ahead of time.
I did more than heat cycles I put ~200 miles on the bike. I dont recall hearing this noise when assembled the motor though.
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The sound is nothing like a valve tapping a piston, to my ears. Much more like a binding snap, happening in both directions, and not quite at exactly the same place every time. I'd be looking closely at the valve springs for a fracture at the bottom of the coil that is popping as the spring moves, a bad bearing in the rocker arm, A slipping pushrod, etc.
While I agree with using modeling clay to measure the clearance, that doesn't really look like valve to piston contact to my eyes. That almost looks like air flow stripping.
And what the heck am I looking at around the piston? I've never seen a bore that looked like that before. Perhaps it's an optical illusion, but it looks ovalled, as well very sooty.
Having nothing to do with the noise, it does look like the engine could use a good tuning to adjust the ignition and fuel.
While I agree with using modeling clay to measure the clearance, that doesn't really look like valve to piston contact to my eyes. That almost looks like air flow stripping.
And what the heck am I looking at around the piston? I've never seen a bore that looked like that before. Perhaps it's an optical illusion, but it looks ovalled, as well very sooty.
Having nothing to do with the noise, it does look like the engine could use a good tuning to adjust the ignition and fuel.
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From: houston
The sound is nothing like a valve tapping a piston, to my ears. Much more like a binding snap, happening in both directions, and not quite at exactly the same place every time. I'd be looking closely at the valve springs for a fracture at the bottom of the coil that is popping as the spring moves, a bad bearing in the rocker arm, A slipping pushrod, etc.
While I agree with using modeling clay to measure the clearance, that doesn't really look like valve to piston contact to my eyes. That almost looks like air flow stripping.
And what the heck am I looking at around the piston? I've never seen a bore that looked like that before. Perhaps it's an optical illusion, but it looks ovalled, as well very sooty.
Having nothing to do with the noise, it does look like the engine could use a good tuning to adjust the ignition and fuel.
While I agree with using modeling clay to measure the clearance, that doesn't really look like valve to piston contact to my eyes. That almost looks like air flow stripping.
And what the heck am I looking at around the piston? I've never seen a bore that looked like that before. Perhaps it's an optical illusion, but it looks ovalled, as well very sooty.
Having nothing to do with the noise, it does look like the engine could use a good tuning to adjust the ignition and fuel.
Ill keep updating this post as I work to figure it out. Im pretty sure its gonna be something blatantly obvious once I find it.
And no the bike has only a base tune in it and that was the next step to get it on the dyno until I heard this.
Last edited by Jcard; Sep 23, 2025 at 08:22 AM.
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From: houston
If a valve made that kind of snapping sound just by turning the motor over by hand I'm sure it would be broken in no time if you just ran it for a few minutes....
Sounds can resonate from the cam chest like you wouldn't believe.. I'll bet bottom dollar is those easy start cams..
Do you know what your spring pressures are, valve on the seat and valve fully open..
You want to take the head off go ahead I don't think you're going to find anything there but make sure you totally disassemble the valves and the Rocker assemblies.. everything.. might want to check the rocker plates for a crack or something..
Sounds can resonate from the cam chest like you wouldn't believe.. I'll bet bottom dollar is those easy start cams..
Do you know what your spring pressures are, valve on the seat and valve fully open..
You want to take the head off go ahead I don't think you're going to find anything there but make sure you totally disassemble the valves and the Rocker assemblies.. everything.. might want to check the rocker plates for a crack or something..
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From: houston
Got off of the phone with S&S and theyre stating it is the compression release mechanism with the EZ start cams. Anything under 1000rpms it goes into that mode. Thats why I hear it when manually rotating the motor and when I turn the bike off. As the bike winds down it enters that compression release mode.
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