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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
So I've got a Screamin Eagle 110 cu in engine and am going to order the S&S easy start gear drive 585 cams with cam plate and oil pump kit, roller lifters, roller rockers, 10.6:1 pistons, and Mikuni HSR45 45mm carb and intake kit. Does/has anyone run this setup, or know anyone who has? I'm fairly mechanically inclined, and I feel that this setup would be perfect for what I want to achieve....which is a daily rider that can also get down and dirty without machine work, or minimal machine work. Any recommendations for running this setup? Am I Ioverlooking anything else that NEEDS to be done to run this setup? Or does anyone see anything wrong with this setup? Thanks.
Last edited by Prospect1986; Oct 9, 2025 at 11:12 AM.
Reason: Grammar
Factory 110? If so, it would have compression releases. You wouldn't need easy start cams. I'm running a 58mm throttle body on my 110. It was a factory 110. Hillside cycles bumped the compression to 10.5:1, S&S 570 cams, beehive springs (factory springs are what wreck lifters) stage 1 headwork. Runs great after the second Dyno tune. It's about 115/115
Yes, it's a factory 110 that I bought for my 2001 Road King...I meant to mention that it is a stock 110. I love the sound of a carburetor, so I'm definitely converting it to a mikuni. I hadn't thought about not NEEDING the easy start cams, I was just looking up the kits and I like the gear drive cams, plus that kit comes with roller lifters and push rods etc. My buddy runs .585 lift cams in his 95 build and it has the lobe that I'm looking for. As far as the springs, I would still need beefier springs with the 110 heads? From my research, I was finding that 110 heads could handle up to .596 lift respectively...or do I need the springs due to bumping the compression? Thanks.
Yes, it's a factory 110 that I bought for my 2001 Road King...I meant to mention that it is a stock 110. I love the sound of a carburetor, so I'm definitely converting it to a mikuni. I hadn't thought about not NEEDING the easy start cams, I was just looking up the kits and I like the gear drive cams, plus that kit comes with roller lifters and push rods etc. My buddy runs .585 lift cams in his 95 build and it has the lobe that I'm looking for. As far as the springs, I would still need beefier springs with the 110 heads? From my research, I was finding that 110 heads could handle up to .596 lift respectively...or do I need the springs due to bumping the compression? Thanks.
The factory springs were an issue. They were too stiff from my understanding. Those engines were known for lifter failure around 20k miles. Scott at @Hillsidecycle.com recommended their stage 1 headwork. It includes the beehive springs. I've had no lifter issues. I'm around 25-30k miles on the S&S lifters. No signs of issues yet.
The factory springs were an issue. They were too stiff from my understanding. Those engines were known for lifter failure around 20k miles. Scott at @Hillsidecycle.com recommended their stage 1 headwork. It includes the beehive springs. I've had no lifter issues. I'm around 25-30k miles on the S&S lifters. No signs of issues yet.
I gotcha and I greatly appreciate the info, I didn't know it was a spring issue. I will definitely be looking into that stage 1 headwork you're talking about. That's awesome to hear, I ride hard, so I'd like to not need to worry too much. Haha. If you think of any other tips, feel free to shoot. Btw, running that 58mm TB is how I had originally planned to go with the build, so I think you did yours right. Everybody has their own taste though, and I prefer a carb. It also just makes sense to me since I've got the "cholo/vicla" style going, 21" spoke front, 18" apes, extended bags, fishtails.
Pistons should be domed; 6cc? to get a true 10.6. S&S 585 cams should work fine. I guess "no machine work" means no head work which is a big mistake; leaving out the most important part of the build, what makes the cams and higher compression work. Another item that should be in the mix is a programmable ignition like the Daytona Twin Tec TC88 and a dyno tune to dial it all in. I would not pass on the headwork, at least a Stage I job. Good advice from Buelligan666 on the springs, replace them with some beehive springs that won't beat up the valve train. Hillside Cycles would be a good place to start; a conversation with Scott will keep the OP from making a mistake.
Pistons should be domed; 6cc? to get a true 10.6. S&S 585 cams should work fine. I guess "no machine work" means no head work which is a big mistake; leaving out the most important part of the build, what makes the cams and higher compression work. Another item that should be in the mix is a programmable ignition like the Daytona Twin Tec TC88 and a dyno tune to dial it all in. I would not pass on the headwork, at least a Stage I job. Good advice from Buelligan666 on the springs, replace them with some beehive springs that won't beat up the valve train. Hillside Cycles would be a good place to start; a conversation with Scott will keep the OP from making a mistake.
Thank you very much for the advice, I did say no machine work, but by "minimal machine work" I was kind of referencing headwork. 😆 So headwork I'm willing to do, I was just hoping that something branded Screamin Eagle would be a bit more high performance, but I'm becoming more and more disappointed the more I dig into specs. Highly disappointed that it wasn't at least 10:1 stock, and do the stock cams even have a .500+ lift?! Stamped rockers?! 🤯 The ignition actually reminded me, I DO need to send my heads in anyway, I want to dual plug them. I know it helps on old shovels, but haven't met anyone with a TC, I assume Hillside does that as well? Again, I greatly appreciate the insight, this is my first BUILD, so I'm just now looking into the tech specs. Based on my experience with SBC builds is why I'm not particularly thrilled with the numbers I'm seeing! Haha.
Last edited by Prospect1986; Oct 9, 2025 at 07:00 PM.
Reason: Left info out
Mine is in a 2012 CVO RG. Really woke the bike up. Max torque at around 3500 and carries a flat torque curve till redline. I like bottom end torque. I don't live in the high rpms. I'm usually 2 up and we ride in eastern Ohio Western PA and WV. Lots of hills to climb. I like the 110 engine. I could go 114 easily. Maybe once we get a new bike in a couple years.
ETA; found my Dyno sheet. 111hp/120tq. Stock pistons. All headwork intake injectors and cams.
Last edited by Buelligan666; Oct 9, 2025 at 08:15 PM.