Adjustable pushrods n 09 FLHX
Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Jonesborough, TN
Adjustable pushrods n 09 FLHX
Last summer I installed a set of SE255 cams in my 09 FLHX 96". Had a little valve rattle.
Today in attempt to reduce the valve train rattle I installed a set of 18572-13 SE lifter tappets and also Crane Cam adjustable pushrods to get the clearance correct. Now my HD repair manual doesn't tell how to adjust. Can someone give me the correct procedure to adjust the pushrod clearance?
thanks in advance
Today in attempt to reduce the valve train rattle I installed a set of 18572-13 SE lifter tappets and also Crane Cam adjustable pushrods to get the clearance correct. Now my HD repair manual doesn't tell how to adjust. Can someone give me the correct procedure to adjust the pushrod clearance?
thanks in advance
Tourer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 432
Likes: 2
From: SW of Fort Worth
I hope you've found the answer to your question before now.
In case you haven't.....You will need to know the operating depth of the lifters. Let's make this simple and say the operating depth is .250 inch or a quarter of an inch. Normally, you should preload the lifters to half of that range or .125 or one-eight of an inch by adjusting the push rods after you have determine zero lash. Be sure you check with your lifter manufacturer to determine how far to adjust your preload.
Zero lash is found by first, making sure the lifter is sitting on the base lobe of the camshaft. Do this by rotating the engine while watching the up and down motion of the lifters. Then install and adjust the push rod such that it sits firmly into the lifter without compressing the lifter...no wiggle, no jiggle but should be able to rotate the push rod. This is called finding zero lash.
Next, determine the threads per inch (TPI) for the push rods. Example: if the push rods have 32 threads per inch then each thread represents .03125 inch. That's 1 divided by 32.
Next divide the preload depth .125 by the TPI figure of .03125 and you will find that 4 turns of the push rod is what you need.
Rotate the push rod four complete turns extending the push rod into the lifter compressing it. After securing the lock nut on the push rod, wait 10 - 20 minutes for the lifter to bleed down. Regarding the lock nut, you need to put some power into tighening it. If it lossens while the engine is operating,.....well, let's just say it's not a good thing.
Once you have waited long enough where you can freely rotate the push rod by your finger tips, the lifter has bled off and you can rotate the engine and do the next lifter.
Be sure you find out the real values for your lifters and you push rod. Some lifters are different than others. Also, some push rods are 32 TPI, some are 24 TPI, etc.
Good luck,
Jim
In case you haven't.....You will need to know the operating depth of the lifters. Let's make this simple and say the operating depth is .250 inch or a quarter of an inch. Normally, you should preload the lifters to half of that range or .125 or one-eight of an inch by adjusting the push rods after you have determine zero lash. Be sure you check with your lifter manufacturer to determine how far to adjust your preload.
Zero lash is found by first, making sure the lifter is sitting on the base lobe of the camshaft. Do this by rotating the engine while watching the up and down motion of the lifters. Then install and adjust the push rod such that it sits firmly into the lifter without compressing the lifter...no wiggle, no jiggle but should be able to rotate the push rod. This is called finding zero lash.
Next, determine the threads per inch (TPI) for the push rods. Example: if the push rods have 32 threads per inch then each thread represents .03125 inch. That's 1 divided by 32.
Next divide the preload depth .125 by the TPI figure of .03125 and you will find that 4 turns of the push rod is what you need.
Rotate the push rod four complete turns extending the push rod into the lifter compressing it. After securing the lock nut on the push rod, wait 10 - 20 minutes for the lifter to bleed down. Regarding the lock nut, you need to put some power into tighening it. If it lossens while the engine is operating,.....well, let's just say it's not a good thing.
Once you have waited long enough where you can freely rotate the push rod by your finger tips, the lifter has bled off and you can rotate the engine and do the next lifter.
Be sure you find out the real values for your lifters and you push rod. Some lifters are different than others. Also, some push rods are 32 TPI, some are 24 TPI, etc.
Good luck,
Jim
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
