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Cam Chest questions

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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 10:49 AM
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Default Cam Chest questions

Cam Chest questions
I've been doing some research lately about the cam chest / valve train on twin cams and have a couple questions .

1 - I see in various posts mentioning pressing the cams out of the cam plate. The S&S video I watched was I believe a 95 TC and the cams were held in by circle clips and just slide out after removing the clips ? Is this not the case for 88 TC motors ?

2 - What push rods to use ? I've been reading that the SE's and S&S Q adjustable have had issues contacting the tubes and even having the lock nuts backing off , along with not wearing well in the rocker arm ? Is there better choices for push rods ? Anyone heard of GMR ?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Stopit
Cam Chest questions
I've been doing some research lately about the cam chest / valve train on twin cams and have a couple questions .

1 - I see in various posts mentioning pressing the cams out of the cam plate. The S&S video I watched was I believe a 95 TC and the cams were held in by circle clips and just slide out after removing the clips ? Is this not the case for 88 TC motors ?

2 - What push rods to use ? I've been reading that the SE's and S&S Q adjustable have had issues contacting the tubes and even having the lock nuts backing off , along with not wearing well in the rocker arm ? Is there better choices for push rods ? Anyone heard of GMR ?
1. TC88's with stock cam plates need to have the cams pressed in/out. There are alternatives where you cool the cams in a refrigerator and then heat the camplate to remove the cams w/o a press. Search on TC88 cam removal/replacement for more details. Late model TC96/103 cam plates don't require a press to change, they have plain bearings and larger cam journals.

2. Either S/E Tapered pushrods or S&S are probably your best bets. There was a batch related issue with S/E locknuts cracking due to improper hardening. That was a couple of years ago, and the problem has been fixed. I've used two different sets of these recently without issues.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 05:26 PM
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Thanks for the reply , kinda thought that was the case , just my luck LOL .
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 08:59 PM
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GMR does not have their own pushrods, they just started to sell their own lifters though and they have their own cam called the Genesis 577.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Stopit
Cam Chest questions
I've been doing some research lately about the cam chest / valve train on twin cams and have a couple questions .

1 - I see in various posts mentioning pressing the cams out of the cam plate. The S&S video I watched was I believe a 95 TC and the cams were held in by circle clips and just slide out after removing the clips ? Is this not the case for 88 TC motors ?

2 - What push rods to use ? I've been reading that the SE's and S&S Q adjustable have had issues contacting the tubes and even having the lock nuts backing off , along with not wearing well in the rocker arm ? Is there better choices for push rods ? Anyone heard of GMR ?
No issues swapping cams out.........we do it here almost daily.
No issues either with S&S pushrods, as those are our go-to pushrods on almost ALL of our engine builds and in-house installs as well, and have been for years.
The lifters mentioned are re-labeled versions of someone else's product........which seems to be a current trend that is running rampant thru outfits that want to feel the useless desire to be the biggest frog in the pond............
Scott
 
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 06:19 AM
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The cam swap S&S video you mention is performed on a plate with hydraulic tensioners. The outboard side (where the bearings you mention are) of the hydraulic plate don't use bearings, rather they ride in the plate on a film of oil. It's possible to swap the cam plate and use a conversion cam which have different o.d.'s on either end like the Andrews N series cams. As a bonus you get rid of the troublesome spring loaded tensioners that seem to fail (according to many threads on the subject).
 
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 06:26 AM
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we use S&S lifters & p/rods here too
 
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 10:00 AM
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I may just start buying parts till I have every thing and take / send my cam plate to some one to press out the stock cams and press in the new ones , prolly go gear drive too and just be done with tensioners as well.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 10:16 AM
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You'll need to have your crank runout checked before you decide to go with gear drive cams. Must be .003 or less. You don't state what year bike you have, but up to '03 shouldn't be a problem, '04 and later is a must check item. One benefit of upgrading to the hydraulic set-up is an improved oil pump that provides more pressure. While the Big Twin runs on a volume rather than pressure oil system, more pressure will help.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 11:47 AM
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Copy the run out , I have an 01 B motor which I've read still has the good bearings that give me a better chance of being with in run out spec for gear drive cams. I'll definitely check to be sure before going ahead with it .

I'm leaning towards the S&S 510 at this point , seems to be the most lift my stock valve springs will handle out of S&S's offerings. I'm not looking to make it a real hot rod but as long as I'm in there why not get a little more performance and maybe sound a little better too.
 
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