124" Sumping/
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Stellar HDF Member
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From: New Bern NC
124" Sumping/
I'm running out of things to check. I had a complete bottom end rebuild done on my 08 Street Glide. I had a Jim's 4 5/8" crank installed, the Timkin bearing conversion was done and the cases were bored for 4.125 pistons. I had the heads done, and new valves and springs. I assembled it with new cylinders and pistons and a new stock oil pump. I fired it up with no problems heat cycled it a few times and took it to a tuner in the area.
He called the next day and told me it was sumping. He took the cam chest apart and I had put the wrong O ring on the scavenge side of the oil pump when I put it together. OK simple enough right, NOT. He called back the next day to tell me it was still sumping. I trailered the bike back home, ordered a Feuling cam plate and oil pump. Put it back together and it still sumped. I pulled the oil pan everything was clean and clear. I started following the oil path and found that the port from the sump back to the scavenge side of the oil pump seemed to be blocked. I pulled the motor back out, split the cases and found what was left of a black ty-wrap in the crank case. I wasn't happy but at least I had found the problem, or so I thought, NOT.
I blew out all the oil passages, made sure the cam plate and the oil pump were clear and reassembled the motor again. I noticed that the oil pressure at start up seemed a little higher than before, 50lbs at idle cold. I let it warm up and then took it for a short ride, maybe 2 miles. Everything seemed fine and I thought once again that all was good, NOT. It was still sumping, so bad the oil gauge was all over the place 10lbs to 35lbs. I figured I missed a piece. I tore the motor down again and found nothing, its spotless inside. I blew out the came plate nothing, dissembled the oil pump, clean.
What am I missing?
He called the next day and told me it was sumping. He took the cam chest apart and I had put the wrong O ring on the scavenge side of the oil pump when I put it together. OK simple enough right, NOT. He called back the next day to tell me it was still sumping. I trailered the bike back home, ordered a Feuling cam plate and oil pump. Put it back together and it still sumped. I pulled the oil pan everything was clean and clear. I started following the oil path and found that the port from the sump back to the scavenge side of the oil pump seemed to be blocked. I pulled the motor back out, split the cases and found what was left of a black ty-wrap in the crank case. I wasn't happy but at least I had found the problem, or so I thought, NOT.
I blew out all the oil passages, made sure the cam plate and the oil pump were clear and reassembled the motor again. I noticed that the oil pressure at start up seemed a little higher than before, 50lbs at idle cold. I let it warm up and then took it for a short ride, maybe 2 miles. Everything seemed fine and I thought once again that all was good, NOT. It was still sumping, so bad the oil gauge was all over the place 10lbs to 35lbs. I figured I missed a piece. I tore the motor down again and found nothing, its spotless inside. I blew out the came plate nothing, dissembled the oil pump, clean.
What am I missing?
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
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Likes: 1,754
From: New Bern NC
Well that's not exactly what I expected but I had thought about doing that just to eliminate the pump and plate as a problem. I have the OEM plate and a brand new stock pump. no harm in trying.
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Stellar HDF Member
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From: New Bern NC
I hope your right Scott but my concern is that I had sumping when I first put the motor together with the original OEM plate and a brand new OEM pump. That's what prompted me to try the Feuling parts as a remedy.
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Even though I did not catch that you had done that in your original post, I still eliminate the billet plate, and INSURE that the blind "O" ring does not get disturbed upon install.
Shy of that, Thayers Sales & Service, in Corfu, N.Y. may be a source that could help, with their 3-stage oil pump.
Scott
Shy of that, Thayers Sales & Service, in Corfu, N.Y. may be a source that could help, with their 3-stage oil pump.
Scott
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Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,806
Likes: 1,754
From: New Bern NC
Even though I did not catch that you had done that in your original post, I still eliminate the billet plate, and INSURE that the blind "O" ring does not get disturbed upon install.
Shy of that, Thayers Sales & Service, in Corfu, N.Y. may be a source that could help, with their 3-stage oil pump.
Scott
Shy of that, Thayers Sales & Service, in Corfu, N.Y. may be a source that could help, with their 3-stage oil pump.
Scott
Thanks for the suggestions so far and stay tuned for more questions.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: New Bern NC
Well It looks like I concentrated my efforts in the wrong place once again. Once the debris was removed from the crankcase and the sumping didn't improve I continued to follow the path of oil both feed and scavenge. When I got around to following the airflow, specifically the crankcase venting that goes threw the head I found a previous mod I had done to re route the vent to the ground rather then the intake (don't tell the EPA) had caused too much restriction. I guess the additional bore and stroke of the 124" made a marginal mod worse. Last night after re drilling the two breather bolts going into the heads I was able to make several trips around the block traveling 25 to 60 mph with no issues and solid oil pressure. I came into the driveway and directly onto my lift table to hold the bike upright. I immediately drained the sump, and got about 3 1/2 oz.
Back to the tuner in the morning.
Scott thanks for your time.
Back to the tuner in the morning.
Scott thanks for your time.