98 or 117 or ??
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 14
From: Idaho
98 or 117 or ??
My engine at the moment,
Stock cams.
Johnson Hylift lifters.
SE Cam plate upgrade.
SE Push rods.
MMI / PC3USB.
Ture Duals.
Ness Big sucker intake.
After some head hunting and lots of reading I've come down to two schools of thought.
I can do a 98 build with head work, really no need to split the case because it is a 2000 88TC so I have the Timken and the crank should have very little run out therefore I can go switch over to gear cams. (remove the worry of the cam shoes)
Or... Split the case for a 117 build, though the budget might hold me back from any serious head work.
Local builder said I would be crazy to split the bottom end, I could see the TQ (100+) numbers I want from a well built 98. 117 and bigger would be just bragging rights not making the best of what I already have. I could care less about HP, its a bagger.
I plan to do most of the work myself, only because winter here sucks and I need something to keep myself busy.
Stock cams.
Johnson Hylift lifters.
SE Cam plate upgrade.
SE Push rods.
MMI / PC3USB.
Ture Duals.
Ness Big sucker intake.
After some head hunting and lots of reading I've come down to two schools of thought.
I can do a 98 build with head work, really no need to split the case because it is a 2000 88TC so I have the Timken and the crank should have very little run out therefore I can go switch over to gear cams. (remove the worry of the cam shoes)
Or... Split the case for a 117 build, though the budget might hold me back from any serious head work.
Local builder said I would be crazy to split the bottom end, I could see the TQ (100+) numbers I want from a well built 98. 117 and bigger would be just bragging rights not making the best of what I already have. I could care less about HP, its a bagger.
I plan to do most of the work myself, only because winter here sucks and I need something to keep myself busy.
Last edited by TO34; May 6, 2014 at 09:30 AM.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
Likes: 2,606
From: san antonio
Tough call but I am thinking 98". If the parts are right, I think you can see 110TQ/HP from a 98" motor. I am debating the same thing for one of my bikes that is currently 95". Having built an all bore 107" for my bagger, I am leaning toward 98" on the softail; should have gone to 117" on the bagger; the additional cost from 107" to 117" is marginal.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 12,084
Likes: 829
Just had recently recieved word that Thayers Sales and Service in Corfu, NY, tuned a clients 97"/our Stage III Heads/Wood 8/OE throttle body/Rhinehart duals to 114/115.
With a larger t/body, and a Fatcat, that same combo has shown almost 120 hp on a dyno in PA.
Scott
With a larger t/body, and a Fatcat, that same combo has shown almost 120 hp on a dyno in PA.
Scott
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 741
Likes: 11
From: West Central WI
My engine at the moment,
Stock cams.
Johnson Hylift lifters.
SE Cam plate upgrade.
SE Push rods.
MMI / PC3USB.
Ture Duals.
Ness Big sucker intake.
After some head hunting and lots of reading I've come down to two schools of thought.
I can do a 98 build with head work, really no need to split the case because it is a 2000 88TC so I have the Timken and the crank should have very little run out therefore I can go switch over to gear cams. (remove the worry of the cam shoes)
Or... Split the case for a 117 build, though the budget might hold me back from any serious head work.
Local builder said I would be crazy to split the bottom end, I could see the TQ (100+) numbers I want from a well built 98. 117 and bigger would be just bragging rights not making the best of what I already have. I could care less about HP, its a bagger.
I plan to do most of the work myself, only because winter here sucks and I need something to keep myself busy.
Stock cams.
Johnson Hylift lifters.
SE Cam plate upgrade.
SE Push rods.
MMI / PC3USB.
Ture Duals.
Ness Big sucker intake.
After some head hunting and lots of reading I've come down to two schools of thought.
I can do a 98 build with head work, really no need to split the case because it is a 2000 88TC so I have the Timken and the crank should have very little run out therefore I can go switch over to gear cams. (remove the worry of the cam shoes)
Or... Split the case for a 117 build, though the budget might hold me back from any serious head work.
Local builder said I would be crazy to split the bottom end, I could see the TQ (100+) numbers I want from a well built 98. 117 and bigger would be just bragging rights not making the best of what I already have. I could care less about HP, its a bagger.
I plan to do most of the work myself, only because winter here sucks and I need something to keep myself busy.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 14
From: Idaho
that is a damn good question... I've been trying to work that out in my head. I have not had any issues with the MMI once I put the PC3USB on it. Ive been told it would make tuning easier then a Carb.
I would like to go to a carb simply for ease of maintenance in the long run.
Advice would be helpful.
I would like to go to a carb simply for ease of maintenance in the long run.
Advice would be helpful.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 296
Likes: 4
i just make my 2000 rk carb 98 ci with andrews 57 2013 head port and 1.9 intake valve stock exhaust valve 2 in 1 supertrapp supermeg not dyno yet breakin period but night and day with 88 ci and andrews 26
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Joined: Dec 2007
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that is a damn good question... I've been trying to work that out in my head. I have not had any issues with the MMI once I put the PC3USB on it. Ive been told it would make tuning easier then a Carb.
I would like to go to a carb simply for ease of maintenance in the long run.
Advice would be helpful.
I would like to go to a carb simply for ease of maintenance in the long run.
Advice would be helpful.
Scott
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 741
Likes: 11
From: West Central WI
that is a damn good question... I've been trying to work that out in my head. I have not had any issues with the MMI once I put the PC3USB on it. Ive been told it would make tuning easier then a Carb.
I would like to go to a carb simply for ease of maintenance in the long run.
Advice would be helpful.
I would like to go to a carb simply for ease of maintenance in the long run.
Advice would be helpful.
I am all for fuel injection and have tuned a few of the MM's with the PCIII and they actually do tune out very well but with the MM parts being discontinued I thought the money to do the carb was well worth it in the long run
Also one of the bikes is a trike conversion so dyno tuning would be costly if you could find someone with a trike dyno that was willing to work the MM. The other bike had it's PCIII fail and melt the front piston so the owner was already guy shy on buying another.
PM me if you need any part numbers