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Breakout 103 cam advice ....?

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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 09:52 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by djl
Static CR is just number; doesn't mean anything. Corrected or dynamic compression is what the motor sees as well as CCP. Scott knows how far to push the envelope with the 57 or any other cam to get the most out of the cam. Don't worry, you will like the 57; a nice cam for your motor.
Thank you sir, as always youhave reassured me on my decision.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2014 | 09:52 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by bklynbob
The 57 with a little more compression and some headwork would be killer. You're a big guy, You might want to go with a 30 tooth front pulley to lower your gearing. This combo would probably be a good compromise of performance and reliability.

What is the stock drive pulley the 2013 Breakout comes out with?

Primary Drive Chain, 34/46 ratio I guess that means its a 34 tooth?
 

Last edited by Pigbacon; Aug 24, 2014 at 09:58 PM.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 01:05 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by mooficious
What is the stock drive pulley the 2013 Breakout comes out with?

Primary Drive Chain, 34/46 ratio I guess that means its a 34 tooth?
I was talking about the final drive pulley. Yes,the primary i beleive is a 34/46. That can be changed also,to a 49 tooth Evo industries clutch basket. Probably a better way to go, but it isn't cheap.i opted to go for a Baker DD7 in my RK. Three options to change your gearing..........
 
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 08:19 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by mooficious
What is the stock drive pulley the 2013 Breakout comes out with?
Trans pulley is 32T. If you drop to a 30T, you will likely need a shorter belt. You can drop one and retain the OEM belt and some have said that they were able to keep the OEM belt with 30T but most run out of adjustment and need the shorter belt. You will also need a speedo recalibration with any changes to the secondary drive.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 09:13 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by djl
Trans pulley is 32T. If you drop to a 30T, you will likely need a shorter belt. You can drop one and retain the OEM belt and some have said that they were able to keep the OEM belt with 30T but most run out of adjustment and need the shorter belt. You will also need a speedo recalibration with any changes to the secondary drive.
I wonder what the cost is for this mod? Anybody done this to their breakout?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 09:52 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by cdonis
I wonder what the cost is for this mod? Anybody done this to their breakout?

Andrews 30 tooth $120 or Baker 30 Tooth $160
139 Tooth Drive belt $ 120 - $200

Power Vision allows the adjustment of the speedo
 

Last edited by Pigbacon; Aug 25, 2014 at 10:12 AM.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 10:09 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by cdonis
I wonder what the cost is for this mod? Anybody done this to their breakout?
Parts or labor?

Trans pulley will run about $100 and belt about $200, plus cost of primary fluid, gasket, etc. Labor intensive outer and inner primary must come off to replace swap the trans pulley; guessing shop rate to R/R to change pulley would be about 4 hours, so what? another $350-$400 depending on book rate. So, I am guessing $475-$525 to swap pulleys.

If belt has to be changed, rear wheel has to come off and swing arm dropped; so what? another 4 hours, plus new belt at $200. So, I am guessing another $550-$650 to swap belts.

Conservatively, say $1300-$1400 to swap pulley and belt, but that's just a guess.
 

Last edited by djl; Aug 25, 2014 at 10:11 AM.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 12:00 PM
  #48  
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Than djl, I should have been more clear. Pricy but probably a nice mod. esp. if a guy did him himself.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 04:23 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by ntraindavefl
Can't have it both ways, stock compression will make a loopy cam a bottom end turd. Loopy cams need compression because of the larger cam overlap to perform right. Not possible to create a carbed style sound on the efi bikes so taking the advice on the stock compression cams in previous posts is the best move. Or you could drop a high overlap cam in your stock motor and have erratic crappy throttle response until about 4000 rpms, but will sound cooler at the red lights.

Should have built one like this:

Nice bike by the way ntraindavef love the sound
 

Last edited by Pigbacon; Aug 25, 2014 at 04:28 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 08:43 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by mirrmu
hi,

good review of the stageIV hit in this one hehehehehehehe

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/new-r...tage-iv-2.html

maybe djl should get his 2 friends to go for a ride with this bloke for a day out on the stage4's and then get them tuned at that harley dealer

heaps of them out there doing well

moofacious, just think about if you wanna go a big boost in one hit or a little boost

thanks
mirrmu
I missed this while trying to help Mooficious off line but I have been ignoring mirrmu because he doesn't know what he is talking about.

The link posted in his above post is to a dyno sheet showing a 103 Stage IV kit making 116HP/116TQ; total nonsense and might happen in a parallel universe but not ours. There is the "rest of the story" missing and we will never know what it is but there is no HD Stage IV kit that will make that kind of power in a 103; not happening. Either the motor is larger than 103; the dyno is one of those "happy" dynos or the Stage IV kit has been supplemented with non kit components.

Furthermore, there is not HD cam that will produce equal TQ/HP numbers; the profiles are such that it just won't happen.

As for all these many happy 103 Stage IV owners that mirrmu keeps referring to, I wonder where they are and why they aren't chiming in to support his claim of the superiority of a MoCo kit over the options available in the aftermarket.

mirrmu just doesn't know what he doesn't know but you gotta love his persistence in spreading inaccurate information.
 
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