SE Quick Install Pushrod Kit 17900032 ?????
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 536
Likes: 7
From: California
SE Quick Install Pushrod Kit 17900032 ?????
Could any of you guy's help me with this question ??????
SE Quick Install Pushrod Kit 17900032
Do I need to take anything a part to install these pushrod's........
Are these similar to the EZ install pushrod's provided by Andrews and S & S where I do not need to remove rocker's or tappet block's.........
Thanks Guy's
SE Quick Install Pushrod Kit 17900032
Do I need to take anything a part to install these pushrod's........
Are these similar to the EZ install pushrod's provided by Andrews and S & S where I do not need to remove rocker's or tappet block's.........
Thanks Guy's
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 536
Likes: 7
From: California
SE Quick Install Push Rods..........
Thanks for the info, getting ready to puchase and want to make sure I am getting the right one's......... Do not want to remove rocker's.........
How do you like the Andrews 37 Cam, I am getting ready to install the Andrews 37H in my Fatbob.........
Thanks.........
Live Free = Ride Free............
How do you like the Andrews 37 Cam, I am getting ready to install the Andrews 37H in my Fatbob.........
Thanks.........
Live Free = Ride Free............
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 100,455
Likes: 19,811
From: Centennial, CO
You may want to consider the 57s. Same profile as the 37s but with more lift for the bigger displacement. I'm very happy with them. They really rock with the extra compression of my BB kit. I ride one up, so I don't need it all down low. A real good all around cam. Also a great idle lope.
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 536
Likes: 7
From: California
37H cams...........
You may want to consider the 57s. Same profile as the 37s but with more lift for the bigger displacement. I'm very happy with them. They really rock with the extra compression of my BB kit. I ride one up, so I don't need it all down low. A real good all around cam. Also a great idle lope.
The y guy I purchased from did a big bore kit right after he install them and took them out for new one's.......
Hope they work okay ??????????
Not looking to get crazy, engine is all stock.........
Live Free = Ride Free.............
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 100,455
Likes: 19,811
From: Centennial, CO
For that kind of money, I'd throw them in there too!! They'll be fine. Replace the inner cam bearings when you do it. You will also need some sort of magnet to hold the lifters up when you remove the cam plate.
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 536
Likes: 7
From: California
ndrews 37H...........
Thanks for the info, I know there are still some thing's I need before swapping them out.....
Definitely will replace inner cam bearing's, new push rods, and thinking about replacing the pressure relief valve and spring with the Baisley precision ground bypass plunger and spring while it is opened up..........
I need to figure out if I want to buy all the tool's or do the rental thing I have seen on Ebay ???????
Thank'a for the info, greatly appreciated........
Live Free = Ride Free.............
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 100,455
Likes: 19,811
From: Centennial, CO
You shouldn't need the Baisley spring, the newer bikes run plenty of pressure and volume.
If you haven't picked up a factory service manual, do so, worth every penny. Other than the cover gasket, You can rent the bearing puller at Autozone. A magnet set up to hold up the lifters since you don't want to take off the lifter blocks, the cam gear locking tool, and some patience. Enough oil to do an oil change. You may need access to a press to get the old cams out and new ones in the plate. Some Loctite.
If you haven't picked up a factory service manual, do so, worth every penny. Other than the cover gasket, You can rent the bearing puller at Autozone. A magnet set up to hold up the lifters since you don't want to take off the lifter blocks, the cam gear locking tool, and some patience. Enough oil to do an oil change. You may need access to a press to get the old cams out and new ones in the plate. Some Loctite.
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 232
Likes: 5
From: Virginia
I'm running the 37H's in my bagger. I could have gone bigger but like you, I got them virtually new for $100. They're fine, just run out of pull above 5K. I don't spend much time up there anyways.
If you're anywhere near Oxnard, I have the bearing puller and install tools you can borrow.
If you're anywhere near Oxnard, I have the bearing puller and install tools you can borrow.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,780
Likes: 2,609
From: san antonio
+1 on the Andrews 57s over the 37s and the service manual.
If you rent the AutoZone blind hole puller, you will be installing the new bearings by driving them in with one of your take out cams. Nothing wrong with that, have done it, but you must be careful as it is easy to get them started cockeyed in the bearing bore. The bearings should be installed with the writing facing out as the backside has a slight chamfer that will facilitate starting them in the bore straight. Freeze the bearings over night and install after liberally applying assembly lube to the bearing cage and the bore. Install flush with the case.
You don't need the cam sprocket lock; you can R/R the rear cam and pinion sprocket bolts by holding the brake; they are only torqued to 25 and 35 foot pounds. Get a set of lifter block gaskets; the magnets work but you never know and it would be disappointing to get stuck because you don't have a cheap set of gaskets. I would be replacing the lifters as well; there have been issues with the H-D "C" lifter.
You will not need access to a press. The new cams drop in and ride in the parent material of the plate.
If you rent the AutoZone blind hole puller, you will be installing the new bearings by driving them in with one of your take out cams. Nothing wrong with that, have done it, but you must be careful as it is easy to get them started cockeyed in the bearing bore. The bearings should be installed with the writing facing out as the backside has a slight chamfer that will facilitate starting them in the bore straight. Freeze the bearings over night and install after liberally applying assembly lube to the bearing cage and the bore. Install flush with the case.
You don't need the cam sprocket lock; you can R/R the rear cam and pinion sprocket bolts by holding the brake; they are only torqued to 25 and 35 foot pounds. Get a set of lifter block gaskets; the magnets work but you never know and it would be disappointing to get stuck because you don't have a cheap set of gaskets. I would be replacing the lifters as well; there have been issues with the H-D "C" lifter.
You will not need access to a press. The new cams drop in and ride in the parent material of the plate.