Changing bulbs is good but before you do check available volts at the light when in operation(engine running fast idle, lights on high beam, radio on ) On both FLTs I have owned (current one is 89 FLTC) volt drop was bad, 1 to 1.5v, divided about equally across the faring to frame connector and the weak (and unavailable) ignition switch. Replace connector with current automotive type weather proof connectors like on new cars and run 10 gauge breaker protected wire from battery to instrument cluster to power relays for lighting position or ignition position and use existing switch only to control relays( only one relay needed if you have lights on full time) that will now supply plenty of current to all devices. Made a huge difference in light operation with none of modification visible without disassembly of the side cover. At the same time I recommend the second relay fix for the start circuit as you already have the cover off and will never have to experience the dreaded click.

 

What about replacing a Tour Glide fairing with a Road Glide fairing? What would that take to do?