Got a lil problem & just need some extra brain help on my 1985 FXSB Lowrider. Been noticing that I need to put the battery on the tender charger each week since I got it. No big deal, but now I've been noticing that it needs the tender damn near everyday. Yesterday I put the multimeter on the battery and it read around 12.6 and varied between 9.6 - 10.3 on the load test which was awesome and thought the problem was solved. But then went out this evening and when trying to start it, just sounded like it was slowly dying to 'click-click' zone. Put the meter back on it and the battery read 11.3 as it sat and then 9.3 - 8.6 during load test. Back when I first got it, the previous owner said the battery was only 3 months old which I know doesn't always mean much, but thought it was good to know. I checked the ground wire and the battery is well grounded to the frame. The ground on the battery itself is a lil melted ,prolly from a previous loose connection, but I got it on there real tight now.

Is a battery cell sulfated or could it be something else? Stator, alternator, voltage regulator, plugs, coil?

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

 

I just went through something similar--in the end, I bought a new battery and now I'm a happy camper. Some batteries can be salvaged--mine wasn't so fortunate. Some smart chargers can revitalize or de-sulfate dying batteries.

Your local autoparts can test your battery to see it's state. There is a great "charging system test" sticky to go over how to test your complete charging system, but it's most likely just a battery issue.

I wanted a battery right away so I picked up an AGM battery at my local autozone--it looks remarkably like the harley battery I removed....

 

Dr Hess has an excellent Sticky at the top of this section on checking your charging system. I suggest a first step is to remove your battery and get it load tested at a local auto parts store. Takes all the doubt out of that part of the system! If the battery fails then obviously get a new one (I suggest an AGM one, not a cheap acid type), however do not assume you have fixed the problem, go through Dr H's tests thoroughly.

 

my charger can bring a battery back from the dead but the success rate is about 60%.
and the charger cost me a little over 800.00 and can take over a week to bring a battery back.
unless you have a lot of batteries to charge its not very cost effective but it does
help them last longer.


http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/worl...rNUaAhpK8P8HAQ

 

From the numbers you provided you need a new battery.
AS said above a good AGM is the way I would go.

 

I don't have the knowledge that a lot of members here have but I had a problem like that with my 90 fltcu. Turned out to be the plug from the regulator to the stator. It would randomly made a connection and drove me nuts. Just my 2 cents.

 

the vlotage regulator has a diode in it - that only allows the voltage to go out of it to the battery that it is connected directly to - plus term via the starter term circut braker box or what ever is the connection for the regulators full time 12 volts -- take the negative term off the battery . to test it -- no key on --- place a test light between the ground cables bolted location and the removed battery term and if it lights the regulator is bad < even if it charges perfect -- you could move the full time 12 volts of the regulator to a switched hot wire but seeing this over and over the many years the regulator will fail when your 2 hundred miles from home never around the corner -- jz

 

I tried the regulator method and the regulator is good to go thankfully. The post on the negative side of the battery was pretty melted down which I'm guessing was causing the issue. I went down to the Zone n got me a new AGM battery. It has since been tested and is now on the tender. I'll then try it out, see how she does and then again try the next day after to make sure it stays true. If not and it does what was happening before like the old battery, then something else must be wearing down the power causing the issue. I'm hopin not and will keep you guys updated on the next step.

Thanks again

 

Well the bike is starting up electrically which i'm stoked as hell, but now experiencing issues with the S&S Super E. I pull the fast idle lever all the way up in order to start it and then leave it at 1/2 mass and have to leave it there. Whenever I move the lever all the way down, the bike dies. Even lower on the lever than 1/2 mass, it sounds low too, like sputting and sometimes see a lil bit of smoke, but smoke goes away when I pull the fast idle lever either higher or all the way back up. I'm slowly trying to figure this out as this is the first S&S I've used cause I've always been attracted to using late CV carbs. So should twist the idle speed screw or the idle mixture screw? And should I go left or right with it? Was guessing the mixture screw, but jus wanted to make sure with someone more novice than me on these carbs. All advice is much appreciated.

Thanks again

 

You can download the Instruction Sheet #51-1012 for tuning your S&S carb from their website, also a Quick Guide, if you don't have them. Seems to me there are two possibilities why your bike dies as you describe: the idle speed screw is set too low, so engine speed drops; or the idle mixture screw needs adjusting as it is either too lean or too rich. If neither of those sorts it out there may be a more serious problem, but let us know what you find.