Electrical issues
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
Well the bike is starting up electrically which i'm stoked as hell, but now experiencing issues with the S&S Super E. I pull the fast idle lever all the way up in order to start it and then leave it at 1/2 mass and have to leave it there. Whenever I move the lever all the way down, the bike dies. Even lower on the lever than 1/2 mass, it sounds low too, like sputting and sometimes see a lil bit of smoke, but smoke goes away when I pull the fast idle lever either higher or all the way back up. I'm slowly trying to figure this out as this is the first S&S I've used cause I've always been attracted to using late CV carbs. So should twist the idle speed screw or the idle mixture screw? And should I go left or right with it? Was guessing the mixture screw, but jus wanted to make sure with someone more novice than me on these carbs. All advice is much appreciated.
Thanks again
Thanks again
Try this
1) Lift enrichiner leaver (what you are referring to as a fast idle lever) and start bike
2) Wait about 30 seconds then lower lever all the way down and at the same time twist the throttle a little (to maintain about 1500 rpm) and set the throttle lock
3) Let the bike warm up then release the throttle lock and ride
I do this for only the first start of the day after that I just start and ride
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Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: RV, USA
well back to square one
I was trying both methods given to me for the carb and things were going so-so, but the bike kept dyin. At first, every time I was starting it, it would go...then not so much. When i'd press the starter button, it'd do the dragging start like it used to do with the old battery. Then would come back to okay start, then back to dragging start until finally there wasn't enough power. Put the meter on and it said the battery was 7.63 sitting and then down to 6 and then staggering down during the load test 
Something is using a **** ton of power and killing the battery. The ground for the battery is locked down very tight on the frame as well as the battery post. And the voltage regulator is well connected too. Just as a note though, the bike does not have a SI ignition module, just the stock one. Starting to make me thing again something could be wrong with the stator, alternator, or coil. Any other suggestions?
Something is using a **** ton of power and killing the battery. The ground for the battery is locked down very tight on the frame as well as the battery post. And the voltage regulator is well connected too. Just as a note though, the bike does not have a SI ignition module, just the stock one. Starting to make me thing again something could be wrong with the stator, alternator, or coil. Any other suggestions?
Last edited by brentswth20; Nov 30, 2014 at 02:08 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 957
Likes: 2
From: Carlsbad Springs Ontario
Electrical gremlins.
You described that your original bat. was not taking a charge and /or not delivering enough current to roll the motor .?
You found the ground terminal on the original bat. to be " melted " .
This melted terminal is your first clue that all is not well.
Battery terminals usually overheat and melt if the terminal bolt has become so loose it introduces high enough resistance to cause an overheating of the lead terminal AND the connector cable.
Check your primary pos. and neg. cables for heat damage and good connections as a start off point to your diagnosis.
Be advised that a loose battery connector can also overheat and cause damage to your starter motor and solenoid , do the checks you find in your manual to eliminate/identify these as a cause of your symtoms.
Next., To identify a parasitic current draw with key off , do this ...
1) ensure you have a fully charged good battery.
2) if you have a stereo with memory , disconnect it and anything else that draws power while key is OFF.
3) disconnect the neg. bat. cable and connect "in series" a 12V. test lamp or multimeter set to 12VDC between the bat. neg. terminal and the neg. bat. cable.
4) if the test lamp glows with key OFF or the meter reads other than 0 volts , you have a parasitic current draw in the elec. system that is usually caused by an abraised wire intermittantly shorting to ground .
Wiring troubles can be a Bitch so PM me if you find any of the above.
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Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: RV, USA
You can download the Instruction Sheet #51-1012 for tuning your S&S carb from their website, also a Quick Guide, if you don't have them. Seems to me there are two possibilities why your bike dies as you describe: the idle speed screw is set too low, so engine speed drops; or the idle mixture screw needs adjusting as it is either too lean or too rich. If neither of those sorts it out there may be a more serious problem, but let us know what you find.
Two things here. Your bike is nearly 30 years old. Has the stator ever been changed out? I would check it. The carb accelerator pump adjustment may be way out. That is an easy adjustment. S&S has outstanding tutorals on there website for making carb adjustments. I would look into it. I also run a Super E and did as they instructed and the bike runs like a scalded dog! I have done a lot of "upgrades" to my 92' that have made the difference in keeping it alive with 108,000+ miles on the original engine.
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