Try this
1) Lift enrichiner leaver (what you are referring to as a fast idle lever) and start bike
2) Wait about 30 seconds then lower lever all the way down and at the same time twist the throttle a little (to maintain about 1500 rpm) and set the throttle lock
3) Let the bike warm up then release the throttle lock and ride


I do this for only the first start of the day after that I just start and ride

 

I was trying both methods given to me for the carb and things were going so-so, but the bike kept dyin. At first, every time I was starting it, it would go...then not so much. When i'd press the starter button, it'd do the dragging start like it used to do with the old battery. Then would come back to okay start, then back to dragging start until finally there wasn't enough power. Put the meter on and it said the battery was 7.63 sitting and then down to 6 and then staggering down during the load test

Something is using a **** ton of power and killing the battery. The ground for the battery is locked down very tight on the frame as well as the battery post. And the voltage regulator is well connected too. Just as a note though, the bike does not have a SI ignition module, just the stock one. Starting to make me thing again something could be wrong with the stator, alternator, or coil. Any other suggestions?

 

Just because you have a new battery does not mean that is not the problem.

 

take the ground off charge the battery over night with a trickel

let it sit for a day then test the load battery voltage

if it stayes up your bike has something on

 

OK ., lets go back to your original problem of weak/no engine turnover.
You described that your original bat. was not taking a charge and /or not delivering enough current to roll the motor .?
You found the ground terminal on the original bat. to be " melted " .
This melted terminal is your first clue that all is not well.
Battery terminals usually overheat and melt if the terminal bolt has become so loose it introduces high enough resistance to cause an overheating of the lead terminal AND the connector cable.
Check your primary pos. and neg. cables for heat damage and good connections as a start off point to your diagnosis.
Be advised that a loose battery connector can also overheat and cause damage to your starter motor and solenoid , do the checks you find in your manual to eliminate/identify these as a cause of your symtoms.
Next., To identify a parasitic current draw with key off , do this ...
1) ensure you have a fully charged good battery.
2) if you have a stereo with memory , disconnect it and anything else that draws power while key is OFF.
3) disconnect the neg. bat. cable and connect "in series" a 12V. test lamp or multimeter set to 12VDC between the bat. neg. terminal and the neg. bat. cable.
4) if the test lamp glows with key OFF or the meter reads other than 0 volts , you have a parasitic current draw in the elec. system that is usually caused by an abraised wire intermittantly shorting to ground .

Wiring troubles can be a Bitch so PM me if you find any of the above.

 

My bad for not responding earlier. I did end up messing with the speed & mixture screw. The mixture screw was off by alot and could hear how much better it would settle as I adjusted. Now that I messed with those, the bike is up & running well! Thanks for all the help guys

 

Two things here. Your bike is nearly 30 years old. Has the stator ever been changed out? I would check it. The carb accelerator pump adjustment may be way out. That is an easy adjustment. S&S has outstanding tutorals on there website for making carb adjustments. I would look into it. I also run a Super E and did as they instructed and the bike runs like a scalded dog! I have done a lot of "upgrades" to my 92' that have made the difference in keeping it alive with 108,000+ miles on the original engine.