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1996 EVO Upgrade

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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 10:52 PM
  #31  
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I have a 1996 Ultra classic with the EFI motor and she is still on the road today and I see guys knocking this model cause of the short time it was in production. I am the original owner and have only had to change a couple thing. I have found that if you do your regular maintenance it will last . Friends always say get rid of that dinosaur. #1 it is still running like the day I bought it and #2 I have no payment . love this bike
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 06:10 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by pooroldaddy
I have a 1996 Ultra classic with the EFI motor and she is still on the road today and I see guys knocking this model cause of the short time it was in production. I am the original owner and have only had to change a couple thing. I have found that if you do your regular maintenance it will last . Friends always say get rid of that dinosaur. #1 it is still running like the day I bought it and #2 I have no payment . love this bike
Hi from the UK and welcome to HDF. There are several of us who like you have owned our 'ole' Evos from new, including me.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 08:56 AM
  #33  
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1996 softail custom. 85 in revolution performance big bore kit , big breather , Mikuni carb , EV-27 cam. thinking I might want to beef it up a little more, but not wanting to break the bank any thoughts or suggestions ??
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 05:32 PM
  #34  
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I upgraded (see sig).
 
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 10:32 AM
  #35  
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Hi guys,
actually I also plan to upgrade my 1995 E-Glide with nearly 78.000 mls.
I have a 34 tooth front pulley with the original Swiss 65 tooth rear pulley and have the 4" Rinehart exhaust combined with the Arlen Ness Big Sucker
The upgrade plan is the following
  • Andrews EV 23 with new Torrington bearing
  • Ultima single fire ignition with coils
  • new S&S tappets
  • original pushrods
  • V-Twin 83" cylinder kit with Wiseco pistons (marked at the cylinder it selves as 85")
  • head work will be done by a known Customshop with Ampco valve sleeves and Kibblewhite valve kit
  • new replacement OEM plastic brather valve
  • James gasket kit
  • probably a new oil pump depends how the original looks like, actually 20psi when normal riding with 20-50 Rev Tech oil
  • CV carburator with 190 main and 50 low jet 1 shim under the original needle

I don't want to have a speed bike, just a little more power from the bottom when riding with my old lady thru the Swiss mountains and central europe.
Are there any concerns or more input what I should do beside?
Thanks for your input.
Have a graet day and stay healthy
 
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 11:56 AM
  #36  
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Watch you compression. with that 30* ivc You really don't want to go over 9.7:1.. (9.5:1 Static will work very nicely)..
 
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 12:44 PM
  #37  
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Could you please explain what you mean with 30* ivc?
Thanks in advance
 
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 02:06 PM
  #38  
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That's the closing timing of the intake valve.. it is used in a formula to determine your dynamic compression based off of your static compression..
 
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Old Apr 7, 2021 | 03:34 AM
  #39  
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Aloha,
so to reduce the compression I can grind a little this edge.
Not much just grind by hand a little radius.
Not a big deal for me I did that often in my former job as mechanic.
But is it necessary to reduce the compression?
I use the James gasket kit JGI-17041-92-A with the metal base and rocker gaskets.
The cylinder head gasket is 0.045".
By the way is it recommended to use new tappet blocks when use new tappets?
I haven't disassembled the engine now that's why I can't measure it.
But how is the experience from you guys after +/- 75.000 mls?
Actually the engine doesn't make bad noises just a little ticking when cold and i guess that it comes from the lifters but I will see soon.



 
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Old Apr 7, 2021 | 04:24 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by blumi
Aloha,
so to reduce the compression I can grind a little this edge.
Not much just grind by hand a little radius.
Not a big deal for me I did that often in my former job as mechanic.
But is it necessary to reduce the compression?
I use the James gasket kit JGI-17041-92-A with the metal base and rocker gaskets.
The cylinder head gasket is 0.045".
By the way is it recommended to use new tappet blocks when use new tappets?
I haven't disassembled the engine now that's why I can't measure it.
But how is the experience from you guys after +/- 75.000 mls?
Actually the engine doesn't make bad noises just a little ticking when cold and i guess that it comes from the lifters but I will see soon.


Don't grind the edge. That's your squish band.
 
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