Interesting. The distance between the peg and the shift lever is a lot further than on the stock Dyna kind of mid control set up.

I like a mid-control. I like to be able to use my legs as shock absorbers and take weight off my spine, lean into the wind and move around more. I don't like to be having to use much of my strength to hold onto the bars and impersonate a sail. But the latest Dyna set up seem (I have not tried one) to place the level very close to the peg and I wonder how to get a boot under it.

Is this peg & bracket set up the same as the FXRs? Did you measure them up and compare distances.

How does the reduction in leverage due to the short lever work out? Finding neutral etc.

(And, yah, stick me in the retard class swopping left and right and upside down controls on bikes ... I highsided a Brit attempt to change from 4th to 3rd at 80 mph. Coming off a Z1, I was sure it must have had a 5th in there somewhere. I was wrong).

BTW, can I just take this opportunity to criticize Baker 6 speed gearboxes ... in the hope Mark appears and offers you a really good deal one on!

There is *NO* way you would need a Baker transmission on that bike!!!

 

It's not anymore distance than with a standard mid set up... in fact it's probably closer. It just appears further because it's backwards from what everyone is used to seeing or what is "normal". This bike has gone under so many changes this year that there is nothing norma about it anyways... and funky shift set ups keep the twinkie riders away.

Dyna mids are not the same as FXR mids... different mounting set up.

As far as leverage... it works fine. Neutral is a little funkier to find now but I still don't have any issues with finding it. Any leverage issues can be cleared up by playing with the shift linkage anyways. I thought I would rather have it set up the "right way" but I can actually shift a lot faster with this set up. I still have to constantly remind myself that it is not the same though.

 

I've looked at the TC Dyna set up with an eye to sticking it on an FLHR but it seems to attach further back than these, from memory the pedal is centred about an inch and a half ahead of the thru case shaft.

On your does the brake side pedal mount on the side of the frame?

I see what you mean, you could just gear the leverage by altering the length of the rear arm. Even make it adjustable.

Well done.

 

I like it! And kudos to the fellow HD member for hooking you up. Pretty cool work, TMan!

 

Thank you for that. For 40 years now, I thought I was the only one that had ever had this problem (or more likely the only one that would admit to it).

All in all, I like tmanbuckhunter's setup. It wouldn't be for me, but I like it. A lot. It takes a lot of ***** to do something different. I mean really different. The naysayers and the "armchair engineers" will always feel the need to throw in their 2 cents worth. I hope my posts didn't sound like one of them.

 

My pleasure, sir. Always happy to own up to my retardery.

The real problem with swopping stuff like that around is in emergencies where your sub-conscious mind overrides your conscious mind. Habit actual physically shapes the brain. It takes a while to add new pathways to it and reshape it. Short of brain damage or a whole lot of the wrong drugs, you may never get rid of the originals so you add another junction and series to the schemata that you need to switch between.

The brains a fascinating thing. I was reading the other day of an old guy with Parkinsons and dementia, who hadn't a clue who he was and couldn't co-ordinate to walk ... but could still ride a bicycle as that part was still intact. Years of cycling in youth had left its imprint.

The OP wants to be a little careful around urgent shifting scenarios, like passing autos on tight windy roads and leave an extra margin of error until he's put some miles in.

What's the set up on this now? 1 up, the rest down. Makes sense if you are a hole shot king and don't spent a lot of time in traffic. I'd be interested to try it.

Used to be 'de rigeur' poor man's rear sets (pegs) in the original cafe racer era.

Ought to make change up on faster, accelerating sweepers easier.
You can buy a blank inspection plate, or may be even a complete case cover without one depending on model.

I would say that you dont have to remove everything ... although it is the proper way ... that you could cut the shaft with a grinder/hacksaw if you are careful. It would be a hassle but worth trying if you don't have the tools. Coincide it with a oil change.

I don't know of any blanking kits but a big short bolt & locknut, two washer and some silicon would do it. No one's going to see it.

 

I don't have problems with change ups... only took me 10 miles to beat this pattern into my brain... feels second nature now. You are correct though, it is one up, 4 down. Like I said, upshifts now happen a lot faster if you want them too.

This was just a quick way for me to get mid controls on completely without having to tear off the whole primary side though... I really like this new set up but I still think in the future I will put it all back the way it's supposed to be. For now though? I aint bitching! It's neat having a unique bike.

 

No too many other Barney bikes out there!!!!

 

Don't be jealous now.