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When i can get them I always try to use the solid, gold plated pins, easy to crimp, hold up much better.
I hate the flimsy stamped HD stuff.
I get the Deutsch that I use the most at Batts racing
Thanks for all of your suggestions. Sorry I haven't responded sooner, been neck deep in this little project. I have run all new wiring through the frame so I won't have this issue again. Found a crimping tool at Radio Shack that is doing a fair job, have only had to redo 2 pins. I'm waiting on a new fuse block (there were NO fuses in the original wiring) to get here. I'll have it Tuesday. I hope to be at the point that I only have to plug in 4 wires to the fuse block, install the battery and ride on. Thanks again. Pothole.....
The "wings" are a little too wide. Pinch the wings a little with a needle nose pliers before you crimp. That lines the wings so you should get a good crimp and not mess up any terminals.
Not to take this conversation in a different direction, but, I am about to do a wiring extension on my 86 FLH for apes. I was just going to solder and heat shrink, but the harness extensions came with crimps. Any reason i should us one over the other? It seems to me the solder will have a lower profile and be less bulky and less apt to slip.
Would love to hear some thoughts on this.
This could be as bad as an oil thread. I played with boats quite a bit until I got back into bikes. There's some good reasons to crimp in a high vibration application, ABYC standards notwithstanding.
Thanks for that article Owtlaw, that was really informative. I like the idea of crimping then heat shrinking the crimp. though that could lead to some serious bulk and a lot of staggered connections. Will have to give this a lot of thought.
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