Ok wait I just re read what he said and if im hearing this right. Im supposed to have grounded the purple wire that would have gone to the VOES since im not running one?

 

Yes you should....or put the VOES back on.

 

Just noticed you refered to Twin Tec module and im running the Ultima. I checked on there set up instructions and heres what it says about VOES tuning. im running curve 1.

• VOES/RTD LED FUNCTION
The green VOES/RTD LED lights when the violet wire is grounded. With the ignition in normal mode and the VOES connected, the green LED
will be on most of the time (engine vacuum present). In Retard Mode, the LED can be used to check operation of the retard controller. (See
RETARD MODE USING THE VOES WIRE below.)
• V.O.E.S. SWITCH (NOT RECOMMENDED ON ULTIMA ENGINES)
VOES switches sense partial throttle openings (high vacuum) and open throttle (low vacuum) conditions in the intake manifold. All late model
Harley-Davidson engines incorporate a Vacuum Operated Electric Switch (VOES) in the intake manifold to sense the engine load. During part
throttle operation when manifold vacuum is high (i.e., light engine load), the switch closes, grounding the violet wire and causing the timing to
advance more rapidly.
This improves gas mileage at cruising speeds and provides crisper part-throttle response while preventing detonation during heavy engine
loading. Over the last few years switches are being produced that activate at a higher manifold vacuum and are required on larger cubic inch
engines. If you use VOES switches on large cubic inch engines your manifold vacuum is much higher and will require a non stock type VOES
switch that activates at a higher vacuum. VOES switches should be used on Ultima Engines by experienced tuners only.
• RETARD MODE USING THE VOES WIRE
This mode provides a convenient ignition retard for nitrous or turbo equipped bikes. When switch 1 is ON, the violet wire acts as a retard
trigger. To use this function, the violet wire is connected to a switch or relay that will ground it at the desired time. The violet wire should not
be connected a VOES when set for retard mode.
When activated, timing will be limited to 25 degrees regardless which advance curve is selected. When the violet wire is not grounded, timing
will follow the quick version of the selected advance curve. The following chart indicates how much retard can be achieved:
Final Timing Final Timing with
Curve# for Curve Retard Activated Total Retard
1 34 degrees 25 degrees 9 degrees
2 34 degrees 25 degrees 9 degrees
3 32 degrees 25 degrees 7 degrees
4 29 degrees 25 degrees 4 degrees

 

Bike didnt have the VOES when I got it, its plugged off on manifold. I intended on putting one back on I just need to figure out what VOES to get and i'll order it right away.

 

Honestly, why would you want full advance in a light tip in condition. Full advance at lower rpm's will create more heat in the motor and pinging. Not only that it will decrease the amount of torque the motor makes a lower rpm's. I do not use the voes at all on my dyna 2Ki. the advance works great. I put my dip switch for the voes on and tape the wire off so it cannot ground, This allows the ignition curve to work without any interruptions. Also I don't have a full race motor so I use curve 2. Curve one is not made for the street...

 

+1 Leave the unit off and use the Retard function built into the Ultima ignition module instead. Its just a matter of running the programming software and setting it up how you would like (or if you want then just use the switches) . NOTE that in this set-up the retard on/off and number of degrees is RPM based rather than VOES switch enabled (that's why they tell you to NOT ground the VOES wire that comes with the Ultima module)

I have my Ultima setup to retard from 35 back to 28 degrees at 3500 rpm upwards as that's when turbo is doing its magic. I do like using the software as you can set up whatever curve suits your fancy, save it to your laptop and then tweak things if you want to.

And one CRITICAL thing! If your using the coils that come with the Ultima kit, then throw them away ASAP. They are total pieces of rubbish - one unit always fails and then you have to limp home on 1 cylinder. Spring for a good set like Dyna-S or the like.

 

IMO, the heat under the nosecone is normal. It does get hot under there.

 

98 and GraemeR, thanks for the clarification on how to set up the ignition. I do have it taped off but the VOES is switch to off. I already ordered the VOES yesterday before your posts so im gonna run it and see what happens. First I need to figure out how to return the ignition and get another one since it seems to be toast. Oh and I did order a different coil and will ditch the one that came with it.

 

Stopped after work and talked to a trust worthy indy here in town yesterday and he concurs. He said surface temps of the cone is in the 260+ deg range and hot as F*&K were his exact words. lol He also ordered the correct VOES for me and will have it today. I'll run the VOES and curve 2 to see how it feels and go from there.

Still not sure about the vibration im getting but since it started (and the ignition fried next day) when I rewired my new bars im gonna rewire them. I took the tanks of and front light assembly last night to get an idea of were to start and the wires (7 on each side of bars) have been splice at least 4 times. I cut everything out to start fresh and solder/shrink tube all new wires from the harness to my bars. If nothing else I know its right and I dont have to worry about it being part of the problem im having.

 

^^^ Yea 4+ splices in your control wires could indeed be where your problem is. Smart move pulling them all out and making sure all the wires are good with minimal resistance and no shorts.