Stator question
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
From: Vine Grove KY
Stator question
So here a video of me testing the stator. Again I'm mechanical inclined but electrical stupid
Here is the link lol
http://youtu.be/aXBikHOIOBI
Here is the link lol
http://youtu.be/aXBikHOIOBI
Last edited by Rabbito; Jul 22, 2015 at 07:48 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,590
Likes: 3,361
From: Cental, MI
So here a video of me testing the stator. Again I'm mechanical inclined but electrical stupid
Here is the link lol
http://youtu.be/aXBikHOIOBI
Here is the link lol
http://youtu.be/aXBikHOIOBI
Never done it no other way!!! either makes juice, or dont. the regulator has to have something to work with after all....
BTW a couple of butt connectors [red or maybe blue...IDR] make attachment of the probes troublefree , no don't crimp them!! LOL
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 3,070
From: Brighton, MI
I simply run the engine with the leads attached to the two wire output...Looking for like 30v at idle.
Never done it no other way!!! either makes juice, or dont. the regulator has to have something to work with after all....
BTW a couple of butt connectors [red or maybe blue...IDR] make attachment of the probes troublefree , no don't crimp them!! LOL
Never done it no other way!!! either makes juice, or dont. the regulator has to have something to work with after all....
BTW a couple of butt connectors [red or maybe blue...IDR] make attachment of the probes troublefree , no don't crimp them!! LOL
If stator checks good on output, then the regulator is suspect. Should see around 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC at the battery when running. Then not lower then around 12.6 (ish) DC when engine off. Good luck YD
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
From: Vine Grove KY
Stator question
Originally Posted by Yankee Dog
Yep! Red and black probe leads should be touching the terminals at the connector at the block with the regulator plug disconnected and out of the picture (for the stator AC output test). At this point you are testing ac output only. If you get it like mentioned earlier, then the stator is good and the next step would be the regulator. Remember stator makes ac current and then the regulator regulates it down and converts it to DC current.
If stator checks good on output, then the regulator is suspect. Should see around 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC at the battery when running. Then not lower then around 12.6 (ish) DC when engine off. Good luck YD
If stator checks good on output, then the regulator is suspect. Should see around 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC at the battery when running. Then not lower then around 12.6 (ish) DC when engine off. Good luck YD
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 3,070
From: Brighton, MI
If your only getting 2.3 volts ac at the stator connection, and 6 when revved then your stator or rotor is bad.
To make sure your checking at the right place, and for anyone else who may read this later, you disconnect the plug from the voltage regulator (call it the voltage regulator connector) that plugs into the black rubber receiving connector (call it the stator connector) at the engine block.
You then start the bike and put your test meter probes on each electrical terminal/post at the stator connector. Both test leads at the same time and check your meter readings. It should read about 30 to 40 volts AC at 2000 RPM's or 16 to 20 volts AC per 1000 RPM's. Shut the engine off before reconnecting the regulator connector to the stator plug.
You are actually doing what is called the AC OUTPUT CHECK. This will tell you if your stator/rotor are putting out the proper AC VOLTS. If not then it is either your stator or your rotor. Most likely the stator, but rotor magnets can come loose or dislodge affecting your ac output.
If this checks out OK, then it is most likely your voltage regulator or battery (assuming all connections along the way are clean and intact). YD
To make sure your checking at the right place, and for anyone else who may read this later, you disconnect the plug from the voltage regulator (call it the voltage regulator connector) that plugs into the black rubber receiving connector (call it the stator connector) at the engine block.
You then start the bike and put your test meter probes on each electrical terminal/post at the stator connector. Both test leads at the same time and check your meter readings. It should read about 30 to 40 volts AC at 2000 RPM's or 16 to 20 volts AC per 1000 RPM's. Shut the engine off before reconnecting the regulator connector to the stator plug.
You are actually doing what is called the AC OUTPUT CHECK. This will tell you if your stator/rotor are putting out the proper AC VOLTS. If not then it is either your stator or your rotor. Most likely the stator, but rotor magnets can come loose or dislodge affecting your ac output.
If this checks out OK, then it is most likely your voltage regulator or battery (assuming all connections along the way are clean and intact). YD
Last edited by Yankee Dog; Jul 22, 2015 at 08:53 PM.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
From: Vine Grove KY
Stator question
Originally Posted by Yankee Dog
If your only getting 2.3 volts ac at the stator connection, and 6 when revved then your stator or rotor is bad.
To make sure your checking at the right place, and for anyone else who may read this later, you disconnect the plug from the voltage regulator (call it the voltage regulator connector) that plugs into the black rubber receiving connector (call it the stator connector) at the engine block.
You then start the bike and put your test meter probes on each electrical terminal/post at the stator connector. Both test leads at the same time and check your meter readings. It should read about 30 to 40 volts AC at 2000 RPM's or 16 to 20 volts AC per 1000 RPM's. Shut the engine off before reconnecting the regulator connector to the stator plug.
You are actually doing what is called the AC OUTPUT CHECK. This will tell you if your stator/rotor are putting out the proper AC VOLTS. If not then it is either your stator or your rotor. Most likely the stator, but rotor magnets can come loose or dislodge affecting your ac output.
If this checks out OK, then it is most likely your voltage regulator or battery (assuming all connections along the way are clean and intact). YD
To make sure your checking at the right place, and for anyone else who may read this later, you disconnect the plug from the voltage regulator (call it the voltage regulator connector) that plugs into the black rubber receiving connector (call it the stator connector) at the engine block.
You then start the bike and put your test meter probes on each electrical terminal/post at the stator connector. Both test leads at the same time and check your meter readings. It should read about 30 to 40 volts AC at 2000 RPM's or 16 to 20 volts AC per 1000 RPM's. Shut the engine off before reconnecting the regulator connector to the stator plug.
You are actually doing what is called the AC OUTPUT CHECK. This will tell you if your stator/rotor are putting out the proper AC VOLTS. If not then it is either your stator or your rotor. Most likely the stator, but rotor magnets can come loose or dislodge affecting your ac output.
If this checks out OK, then it is most likely your voltage regulator or battery (assuming all connections along the way are clean and intact). YD
I'm trying to triple check before ripping into that stator. I am limited on tools just moved to apartment so I don't have a place to work except a parking space. I'll try the butt connector so I know it's the stator. I'll keep yall posted.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 3,070
From: Brighton, MI
Just replaced mine a little while ago, other than the sockets for the comp and clutch nuts, you need a torque wrench, set of snap ring pliers for clutch, red Loctite, a t27 (inspection cover) and t40 (primary drain plug) torx bits, and some brake clean to clean the threads before using the Loctite. Any 10w-40 (or around there) will work for replacement primary oil. The other tools are just normal stuff like allen wrenches, sockets, open/box wrench, etc.
You can get the sockets at Lowes, Home depot, autozone, etc. 1 1/2 inch for comp sprocket, and 1 3/16 for clutch (reverse thread-lefty tighty). A pipe to slip over your socket wrench will help break it loose, but mine was easy to come off (easier then what it should have been).
You can probably re-use the foamette primary gasket (if yours has the foamette gasket). Pulling the old stator plug is tricky and it is easier to use something blunt to push it or tap it from outside to inside. Getting new rubber stator connector to slip into the hole in the block can be tricky. Small wire brush to clean the inside of the hole once it's removed. Try motor oil or castor oil from the drugstore if the motor oil don't work (castor oil is sold as laxative...an old timer told me that trick, but a very slippery oil and I see the jokes coming ). Just don't tear up the new connector trying to get that stator connector in place. Extended reach needle nose pliers can help.
I used this on the stator plug after trying some spray silicone (silicone did not help) and after coating the plug with this it slid in way easy and I like that is added a little bit of sealant as well: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2363&ppt=C1984 Good luck, YD
You can get the sockets at Lowes, Home depot, autozone, etc. 1 1/2 inch for comp sprocket, and 1 3/16 for clutch (reverse thread-lefty tighty). A pipe to slip over your socket wrench will help break it loose, but mine was easy to come off (easier then what it should have been).
You can probably re-use the foamette primary gasket (if yours has the foamette gasket). Pulling the old stator plug is tricky and it is easier to use something blunt to push it or tap it from outside to inside. Getting new rubber stator connector to slip into the hole in the block can be tricky. Small wire brush to clean the inside of the hole once it's removed. Try motor oil or castor oil from the drugstore if the motor oil don't work (castor oil is sold as laxative...an old timer told me that trick, but a very slippery oil and I see the jokes coming ). Just don't tear up the new connector trying to get that stator connector in place. Extended reach needle nose pliers can help.
I used this on the stator plug after trying some spray silicone (silicone did not help) and after coating the plug with this it slid in way easy and I like that is added a little bit of sealant as well: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2363&ppt=C1984 Good luck, YD
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Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
From: Vine Grove KY
Stator question
Originally Posted by Yankee Dog
Just replaced mine a little while ago, other than the sockets for the comp and clutch nuts, you need a torque wrench, set of snap ring pliers for clutch, red Loctite, a t27 (inspection cover) and t40 (primary drain plug) torx bits, and some brake clean to clean the threads before using the Loctite. Any 10w-40 (or around there) will work for replacement primary oil. The other tools are just normal stuff like allen wrenches, sockets, open/box wrench, etc.
You can get the sockets at Lowes, Home depot, autozone, etc. 1 1/2 inch for comp sprocket, and 1 3/16 for clutch (reverse thread-lefty tighty). A pipe to slip over your socket wrench will help break it loose, but mine was easy to come off (easier then what it should have been).
You can probably re-use the foamette primary gasket (if yours has the foamette gasket). Pulling the old stator plug is tricky and it is easier to use something blunt to push it or tap it from outside to inside. Getting new rubber stator connector to slip into the hole in the block can be tricky. Small wire brush to clean the inside of the hole once it's removed. Try motor oil or castor oil from the drugstore if the motor oil don't work (castor oil is sold as laxative...an old timer told me that trick, but a very slippery oil and I see the jokes coming ). Just don't tear up the new connector trying to get that stator connector in place. Extended reach needle nose pliers can help.
I used this on the stator plug after trying some spray silicone (silicone did not help) and after coating the plug with this it slid in way easy and I like that is added a little bit of sealant as well: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2363&ppt=C1984 Good luck, YD
You can get the sockets at Lowes, Home depot, autozone, etc. 1 1/2 inch for comp sprocket, and 1 3/16 for clutch (reverse thread-lefty tighty). A pipe to slip over your socket wrench will help break it loose, but mine was easy to come off (easier then what it should have been).
You can probably re-use the foamette primary gasket (if yours has the foamette gasket). Pulling the old stator plug is tricky and it is easier to use something blunt to push it or tap it from outside to inside. Getting new rubber stator connector to slip into the hole in the block can be tricky. Small wire brush to clean the inside of the hole once it's removed. Try motor oil or castor oil from the drugstore if the motor oil don't work (castor oil is sold as laxative...an old timer told me that trick, but a very slippery oil and I see the jokes coming ). Just don't tear up the new connector trying to get that stator connector in place. Extended reach needle nose pliers can help.
I used this on the stator plug after trying some spray silicone (silicone did not help) and after coating the plug with this it slid in way easy and I like that is added a little bit of sealant as well: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2363&ppt=C1984 Good luck, YD
Eh, I'm having to do the same on my 93 Dyna Wide Glide, there are videos on Youtube showing you how it's done just got to look it up. Really great instructional video and hopefully this will be easier than what I am expecting. I love a good challenge though. Anyways, I replaced the regulator just because and my stator has perfect readings and is putting out what it should. I couldn't figure out the problem, well I'm not going to into specific details as it could take forever BUT after a month of doing tests fixing this and fixing that, adding a Kuryakyn Battery Gauge(well worth the investment) I finally took it over to the shop and the guy told me the plug itself is probably burnt up inside. Cut it out and see what you're working with. I did notice burnt residue on the top plug and decided to slice away, at this point I was completely over avoiding any stator repair as I knew it would be inevitable at this point....turns out the dang top electrical connector on the stator is missing! only half of it remains and the regulator connector is just tapping it which is why it was losing connection....so yeah long story short, I'm replacing the Stator on Tuesday when the part comes in. FTW!