Stator question
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 3,070
From: Brighton, MI
Yes the connector is a known problem. It was the same issue with mine. Stator was fine, connector was failing.
There was one guy who has posted here that he removes the stator, removes the plug, ads a longer length of wire by soldering and heat shrinking the two stator leads so he can make a new connection away from the block. He then fills the hole in the block with silicone and uses a nice connector like the newer bikes in between the regulator and the old stator connector location.
I like this idea, but I just replaced mine with a cycle electric unit. I will "convert" my old stator like described above and have it ready as a spare, but I hope I will never need it.
Take note on how the rotor (alternator) comes off. Mine had the spacers in a little different order than the manual. The rotor is not hard to remove, don't need any special tool for that. Just a couple allen wrenches to use as "hooks" in the hole.
Yes I watched those videos, and they did help. Again the toughest part of the job is seating the new plug (like in the video), which is why I suggested the permashield or castor oil. It goes in nice and easy with the permashield....YD
EDIT: Make sure you use red lock tite on the crank and clutch nuts, and blue Loctite on the two little screws that hold the stator wires down (the one with the plastic clip) as well as the four stator bolts (manual says use new stator bolts). The two small screws will leak crankcase oil if you don't seal them with the Loctite. YD
There was one guy who has posted here that he removes the stator, removes the plug, ads a longer length of wire by soldering and heat shrinking the two stator leads so he can make a new connection away from the block. He then fills the hole in the block with silicone and uses a nice connector like the newer bikes in between the regulator and the old stator connector location.
I like this idea, but I just replaced mine with a cycle electric unit. I will "convert" my old stator like described above and have it ready as a spare, but I hope I will never need it.
Take note on how the rotor (alternator) comes off. Mine had the spacers in a little different order than the manual. The rotor is not hard to remove, don't need any special tool for that. Just a couple allen wrenches to use as "hooks" in the hole.
Yes I watched those videos, and they did help. Again the toughest part of the job is seating the new plug (like in the video), which is why I suggested the permashield or castor oil. It goes in nice and easy with the permashield....YD
EDIT: Make sure you use red lock tite on the crank and clutch nuts, and blue Loctite on the two little screws that hold the stator wires down (the one with the plastic clip) as well as the four stator bolts (manual says use new stator bolts). The two small screws will leak crankcase oil if you don't seal them with the Loctite. YD
Last edited by Yankee Dog; Jul 24, 2015 at 04:27 AM.
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