'87 FXLR (FXR) Engine Mount OEM replacements? Help!
As far as the motor mount goes, 87 calls for 16207-79B and I guess that was replaced with the D that needs to be flipped for install? Anyway, the one on her was an old BARRY 28043 core1. Is this a buell part?
What would you put in your FXLR if you were on a budget and could not afford 100 dollars for the high end ones? Don't really need a heavy urethane mount for cranking it. She is built up but does not get hammered on. A mellow mount would be awesome but I can not find the barry or an oem one that has similar density in the rubber or material.
Thanks for your help! I appreciate it.
Any tweaks or magic you know about putting her on a rail would really help. I need to learn this myself instead of having it done. Last time I had it done she still had a mild wobble if your arms were stiff over 85mph.
Nick
NW Montana in the middle of nowhere and ordering online mostly.
I read a bunch of stuff on here and other sites. I'm looking at landmark SS stabilizers, CompCams front motor mount and pray to Valhalla that I don't need to replace the cleave blocks with the StaBO bushing things. The swingarm is an AN on her so not sure if the Sta-bo works.
Anybody use the Sta-BO on an FXR? Perhaps I'm in the wrong place? Wall?
If the OEM front motor mount by HD was made in America I would ride down to Kalispell and deal with that racket but it's Made in China, to hell with that.
This is the last time I rode her, awesome sunset with nobody on the road with the Bob Marshall Jungle in the back ground.
87 fxlr ams3 AN S&S BDL PM Works BELRAY!
Do you run either of these on your bikes? Quite skeptical of chinese parts. Commies want to kill us and this would be a great product for them to sabotage.
Or, you could experiment with some castable urethane and fix what you have, but it will still cost you about $26.
Why do that when they could just poison all your food at Wal-mart...probably not as good as an OEM part but it is cheap and takes 20 minutes to change...and yes I have run the el-cheapo one with no problems.
Did hours of work trying to learn how to do all of this. I followed the manual and watched a ton of videos to get some tricks out of people who have done it.
I lifted the bike and checked the rear wheel for equal distance on both sides on the arm with a bent welding rod. This was a bit of a trick since the chrome cover on the left from the kick stand got in the way. measured it several times and felt that it was as good as I could ever get it. Cleave blocks appeared to be in good condition on this old AN arm.
The gas tank was removed and the gas lines were getting a little crusty so I replaced the little one up front from tank to tank and the main fuel line. Also go to the the blinker relay thing. Found a nice American made one that worked good.
I removed the old BARRY mount up front using a lift and a scissor jack leaving the two bolts in loosely for vehicle alignment. Center motor mount bolt was about 30lbs. New stabilizers were installed with similar dimensions and the top one was left disconnected on the vertical bolt so no tension up top. I adjusted the front stabilizer ever so slightly to get the front wheel equal on both sides measured from two points on each side. I rolled the bike around the shop to let each adjustment set in. It ended up being perfect. I locked down the two bolts and everything seemed to be pretty well centered. Not much tweaking was needed. The top stabilizer was adjusted to drop in freely but I had to move the plate forward to get it around 90 degrees from the frame. If I did not do this, the stabilizer would have been angled back towards the rear a little. This was tricky for me since I had to get the length right and then lock down the stabilizer and then install it to the bike. The rotors were nuts on so it needed no twist or tweak up top. I then secured the motor mount after letting the bike run for a little bit.
Not very good at writing so i hope this makes sense. Took it for a test ride and It gave me a case of the numb nuts at about 2K which wasn't a big deal. I need to force myself to ride this bike at 3K to 5K rpm. It likes that much better.
The thing that got worse was that it has a NEW crazy vibration at low RPM when I shift it into a stop. Basically when I come out of RPM and she winds down. It is coming from the front, I think. I looked and don't think the engine is hitting the frame or tank anywhere. I'm going to put tape on the frame and tank to see if it does tonight.
I gave up last night but adjusted the idle rpm to about 900. I will clamp a fluke to it tonight and get the RPM dialed in better for idle.
Other things I am considering is that the motor mount sucks? The original one is a Barry and made of rubber, not urethane. It's much stiffer.
I could have dicked up the top mount with too much pressure? It dropped in pretty good but could be better.
Lean? or idle speed?
The pipes are off the frame and directly connected to the transmission. I will try to remove the mount and run it for a second and then tighten it up where it wants to sit.
I know it's not a caddy and will vibrate a little but this new vibration is frustrating.
Hope to hell the idle was too low.
So much smoke in Montana you can't ride very much without getting sick from the pollution. Hope to have this squared away and on the level for when the fires calm down...
From what I gathered, all the replacement mounts are too damn stiff. They are designed for heavier motors and not backwards compatible with the old evo.
I watched a dude pull his motor forward a little with a tow strap and then lock down the stabilizer. It moved his transmission forward about 1/8 of an inch. That seemed odd. That might be a last resort!
If anybody knows of a motor mount that is softer I would be interested. I found predator in england and they mentioned the soft original mount and how harley changed it to a stiffer part etc....
Anyway, the fight continues....
Thanks for your help and suggestions.
Nick
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