Too much oil?
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,062
Likes: 4,547
From: Haslet Texas
I just did my first oil change on my "new to me" 89 FXSTC. I found the drain hose, drained the oil, replaced the filter, and poured in 3 qts of HD 20-50.
I then ran the bike to check for leaks and finding none, I took a little putt around the yard. Now when I check the level it's right up to the filler neck.
The book calls for three quarts, what's up?
I then ran the bike to check for leaks and finding none, I took a little putt around the yard. Now when I check the level it's right up to the filler neck.
The book calls for three quarts, what's up?
I only put in 2.5 quarts when I do mine.
Or just shy of the filler neck.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,504
Likes: 150
From: ct
If you're not changing the filter, that's about right. The Softail only holds 3 quarts MAX.
I change mine IMMEDIATELY after a run, while it's still hot, and before the oil has a chance to drain past the check valve back in to the sump from the tank. I put a block under the frame and rock the bike to the right to make sure the tank drains thoroughly. Then I change the filter. I can then add just shy of 3 quarts (2 qt.-28 oz.). Of course, I don't run mine a half quart low like many here suggest. I run my oil level right up to the bottom of the filler neck (when the bike is upright and level). I find that running with the oil level low on a Softail just increases the oil temperature and rate of oil consumption.
There are some people who drain their oil, remove the filter, fill the oil tank and start the engine to let the new oil "flush" the old oil out of the motor. Watch the oil coming out of the filter port, and when clean oil appears, stop the motor, install the filter, top off the tank and ride.
Seems like a lot of trouble for relatively little benefit to me.
I change mine IMMEDIATELY after a run, while it's still hot, and before the oil has a chance to drain past the check valve back in to the sump from the tank. I put a block under the frame and rock the bike to the right to make sure the tank drains thoroughly. Then I change the filter. I can then add just shy of 3 quarts (2 qt.-28 oz.). Of course, I don't run mine a half quart low like many here suggest. I run my oil level right up to the bottom of the filler neck (when the bike is upright and level). I find that running with the oil level low on a Softail just increases the oil temperature and rate of oil consumption.
There are some people who drain their oil, remove the filter, fill the oil tank and start the engine to let the new oil "flush" the old oil out of the motor. Watch the oil coming out of the filter port, and when clean oil appears, stop the motor, install the filter, top off the tank and ride.
Seems like a lot of trouble for relatively little benefit to me.
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From: Alaska
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: ct
Mark the part facing down when hand tight and cut there , save for your oil changes. It's piece of mind for me knowing that I'm not adding fresh oil to half quart of dirty oil in the crankcase. I would prefer to add a drain to the case myself as the factory should have done.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Upstate New York
Mark the part facing down when hand tight and cut there , save for your oil changes. It's piece of mind for me knowing that I'm not adding fresh oil to half quart of dirty oil in the crankcase. I would prefer to add a drain to the case myself as the factory should have done.
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Joined: Jan 2015
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From: ct
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: NW AR
Hey Ken. Welcome to The Evo Board.
Don't worry about the cut filter, slightly over filled, etc. When changing oil, if the drain is on the opposite side, then after all that will come out with it on the jiffy stand comes out, sit on the bike, pick it up off the stand and let some more drain out, then call it good. Fill it up to about the bottom of the filler neck with the bike upright, or at the mark on the jiffy stand. It's a dry sump motor, so the oil level is not critical. Start, let the filter fill, stop, check/top up. I just dump 4 quarts in mine and don't worry about it (my bike has a 4 quart tank.)
You have the factory shop manual, right? Just checkin'.
I use Genuine Toyota filters. They spec out the same as a HD filter, are cheaper, top quality and black. Not sure if a Toyota dealer is closer than a HD dealer up there. The filter is the same as fits on, say, a 1986 4 Cyl Truck, and about a third of the rest of all Toyotas. You don't have to put any oil in a new filter. The filter on an Evo is in the return line.
Don't worry about the cut filter, slightly over filled, etc. When changing oil, if the drain is on the opposite side, then after all that will come out with it on the jiffy stand comes out, sit on the bike, pick it up off the stand and let some more drain out, then call it good. Fill it up to about the bottom of the filler neck with the bike upright, or at the mark on the jiffy stand. It's a dry sump motor, so the oil level is not critical. Start, let the filter fill, stop, check/top up. I just dump 4 quarts in mine and don't worry about it (my bike has a 4 quart tank.)
You have the factory shop manual, right? Just checkin'.
I use Genuine Toyota filters. They spec out the same as a HD filter, are cheaper, top quality and black. Not sure if a Toyota dealer is closer than a HD dealer up there. The filter is the same as fits on, say, a 1986 4 Cyl Truck, and about a third of the rest of all Toyotas. You don't have to put any oil in a new filter. The filter on an Evo is in the return line.