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When I first started tweaking my CV carb, I purchased one of the typical CV carb tuner kits. The one I purchased was a Cycle Pro CV Carb Recalibration Tuner Kit 16541, Drag Specialties part number: DS-289304
While the bike ran OK, gas mileage was poor. I than read about using the Sportster needle and HD jets. Using the HD parts, the bike ran better and got much better gas mileage. The HD parts are also cheaper than a tuning kit.
Some good info here: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm
Last edited by LQQK_OUT; Aug 22, 2015 at 02:07 AM.
I have the same carb. Glad I stuck with this one. My bike runs perfect and never skips a beat.
From my experience S & S carbs is they have a real good wide open throttle circuit. It loves to dump gas in your engine. Sometimes it's a real pain when you just want to cruise on the road and your mpg just falls. It's old technology. So not for your average stock engine. Stick with a CV.
I've spent time riding and tuning with an AFR meter on all three carbs mentioned, and they all can run well, but I have to agree here that the S&S has the least ability to get dialed in in all ranges.
This makes as much sense as an oil thread...just opinions of what people like the best, with no basis in fact. A carb does not know what name is written on the air cleaner...any carb will give good performance if the person building/tuning it knows what they are doing...the "top dogs" are just the ones most supported by the aftermarket, so easy for amateurs to get to work.
The biggest thing with carbs is the same with cams...they must match the motor...bigger is not better. If the carb you have now is properly tuned for your motor...changing to a different brand or size will not give better performance.
Since you want an S&S air cleaner, keep in mind the air cleaner itself costs $200...so if your CV is too worn out to build,(many are) a cv may not be cheaper...pro built cv carbs cost as much as S&S carbs by themselves.
If your carb is worn out, a complete S&S kit may be a deal...and you get a new intake manifold, which IMO is a better design than the cv setup...much less chance of intake leaks.
As long as anyone is talking about fuel consumption, as long as you don't reach this level you will be fine. This is my Jeep a couple of days ago LMAO.
I've only ever had S&S. and depending on who tunes your motor will determine how well it accelerates and idles and what kind of gas mileage you can get. My first build with my current bike, 10:1 wiseco with Hillside stage II heads and a woods w6 cam with the S&S performed very well and actually got 52 mpg when not overly twisting the throttle.
CV's can support over 100 hp with some work, solid street manors that gets the job done, it's full throttle can be just a tad bit slower due to the diaphram set up but still hits hard. Kinda reminds me in comparison of the old small block chevy, simple, works and can be altered to run.
Mikuni has quicker throttle response and a slight edge in performance, it does look like a shoe box that takes up more room. It also is solid as a rock in street manors and give it the nod over a CV if you are a performance junkie.
Ran both the above carbs on the same warmed up Evo and both got the job done, CV was free and a Mikuni 45 for $50 needing rebuilt so I could play with them.
Running a Ultima R1 on the 127" which is a updated S&S Super G, it has had the throat bored bigger which slows down velocity to promote better street manors and a T jet for all out giddy up. Simple carb but havn't had to play with the air bleed which is the midrange fuel cross over control so i don't fully understand it yet. Even tho a large engine, the S&S design works smooth in all areas. i have the S&S tear drop but prefer to run the stock air filter cover on a Zippers air filter so it is each his own on looks.
Big picture is all 3 will work if tuned in correct, fuel mileage should go to the CV with it's design, throttle response is Mikuni, performance is between the Mikuni and S&S but the S&S has the ability to be altered to feed the largest engine. The S&S is prone to have a flat spot or stumble if you don't have it tuned in correct so once again tuning is a key to happyness
Last edited by 1997bagger; Jan 26, 2019 at 11:58 PM.
I suggest you ride a bike that has a Mikuni HSR 42 before you buy an S&S.
+ one - every newer bike i have has a mikuni and the suppliers offer any carb i want every year for free and we have all mikunis
hands down the best in normal money --- now if its unlimited money FRC flatside for $1200 dealer cost ( built to order ) is going to be my choice but you need at least 110 HP and over 100 torque at the tire before you even think about it
As long as anyone is talking about fuel consumption, as long as you don't reach this level you will be fine. This is my Jeep a couple of days ago LMAO.
I prefer my mileage like this, thank you very much. 10 gallons of fuel for 600 milesl.
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