ok guys. stroker 80 inch 92 flhtcu. dyna 2000 external ignition, accel dual fire coil. stock timing plate in nose cone, running voes. I need 35deg btdc. made a mark on rotor at tdc and 35deg.. does voes need to be be unhooked and grounded, and can dial back work with dualfire? if not can I use dial back as a regular timing light? have detonation under load and under 2700. flowed heads, Andrews ev 5 cam,

 

You can use the dialback as it's only showing one plug at a time. Sounds more like you got the wrong advance curve but you'll need to get timed right first.

 

you have as i see it other issues - FLHTCU is almost a 900 pound bike, you said 80 inch stroker < it comes with an 80 inch motor BUT if its is a stroker that cam EV 5 is way to small and the static compression is too high / timing is not going to fix it

 

Having read John's comments, tell us what you are up to! An Evo when stroked typically makes 89", up from the stock 80". I had one myself for several years. What is the story on yours, have you built it up yourself, or had it built by an indy?

 

ok heres what I know. po had it built at HD shop . It had noise coming from cam. I pulled it apart and found that there was zero clearance on the cam endplay causing the spacer to bind up on the cam. that problem solved. pulled engine and tore down to cases. find out its a stroker S&S crank, rods, pistons. stock bore. ev5 cam. heads have the bigger intake and exhaust valvesand ported and polished, and S&S intake manifold have been ported and polished. its been a nightmare from day one chasing oil leaks and fixing leaks. that's why I parked it and decided to completely tear it down. the wife calls it the nightmare. all started with oil leak from the rear rocker box between the box and head. there was one stripped bolthole on the head for the rocker box. got that fixed (helicoiled) and put it back on. next had leaks at base gaskets. fixed that. then after that the valves seals started to leak. fixed that. new cam bearings, checked all the tolerances on crank, installed all new gaskets. runs well, starts right up, no noise. finally happy. then decide to get rid of the SE ignition module. NON programmable and the stock ignition plate. put in a new crane hi-4 and coil set. half block from home the new module ***** the bed. no spark on front. tore all apart again and put my dyna 2000 external with accell dualfire coil I had and stock plate in nose cone. bike pulls hard after 2800. no problem. but under that if im in 5th, and roll on throttle get detonation. that's where im at now. I did have all the previouse receipts from his build. I would assume the dealer would have put a cam in that matched the work done. I have static timed it. just trying to get it dialed in now.

 

Hate to ask the obvious but what grade of gas are you using and tell us about the carburetor, jetting etc.

 

take the timing plug out - turn the engine over slowly, till you see a series of numbers and letters , they will ID what stoke you have - post what is on the flywheels -- if its a 4 1/2 stroke the cam is small but ok -- if its a 4 5/8 stroke or bigger then the cam choice is way too small

static compression ( SC ) / Not static timing 2 different things ---- SC is the volume trapped in the cylinder once the intake valve closes that it compresses - short duration cam like you have 238 degrees @ .053 will cause a ping at low engine speed with the throttle open in a higher gear and a longer stroke then what it came with

we are trying to determine what you have and how to help

 

Still have alot of important info left out: big bike? .030 head gasket? assuming S&S carb? heads cut?

S&S 4 5/8 has flat tops so compression can range from 9.7-1 to 10-2. the EV5 is a 44 intake closing cam so it can live at 10.2 which is the assumed high side, you can set the timing with the light to be 100% accurate but the TDC system with the 2000 works well. Ran that 89" with perfect AFR at 10.0-1 40 intake closing cam and had to run 2nd single or 3rd timing setting loaded, Know that engine well, going to be honest, if you have stock gearing, that engine will not pull out of 5th gear roll on without detonation.

If you are running A S&S it goes deep on the low jet in rpm so fuel can also be a factor with detonation. If you know your timing, know your fuel AFR, know if your voes is working then you can play. They make adjustable voes that help detonation but most likely a bandaid for base engine tuning because that engine can be tuned for detonation without a voes on it.

Plugs are getting harder to read with today's gas but look for the timing heat mark on the strap that should be in the center of the bend, see if the plugs are white or a light tan color for fuel mixture that will lead you in a direction.

 

heres what I did. pulled the primary on the nightmare. made a mark on the rotor and inner primary at TDC. got my front 35deg front advanced to the left side of timing hole. just exiting hole). made a mark. set dialback to 32 deg. fired up, set at 2500. (S&S says stroker motors set at 32deg) put light on, was out about 10 deg. shut er down, moved plate about 1 big mark and a small mark. from what ive read from big mark to big mark is 5 deg. fired it up, set at 2500 rpm, dialback at 32 deg, and 32 deg mark lined up with mark on inner. no kickback on starter, idles fine, voes reattatche (ungrounded) my setting on dyna 2000 is at curve 1. im wondering if I need curve 3. 32 deg advanced at 5000. haven't rode yet due to snow coming down. lo how does this sound?

 

Curve 1 on a Dynatec 2000 is for stock motors.
The programmable ignition modules will allow you to stop pinging.
On the dynatec you start at 1 and if you are getting pinging then go to 2 if you still have pinging then go to 3 then 4 until the pinging stops.