This ain't the first time luke has brought in weird *** ****. I reminded him the last time as well. This ain't a Freedom session. nor is it Brave Hearts push...

 

What, do you mean a sense of humor or intelligence?

This ain't a fishmongers either, but I don't see you picking up folk on that either.

Hey, I'm one the guys with their sleeves rolled up actually helping out here, not just stood by the counter distracting, and voicing an opinion about how the shop should be run.

(In the past, I've worked in 5 different bike or bike related shops. In all of them we'd talking about anything and everything. There's a big, big world outside those garage doors and being open to it brings in new opportunities and makes life stuck inside more tolerable).

I have no idea what a Brave Heart push is ... "Mentoring men to freedom from habitual sexual sin"? No, I'm kind of in favor of that stuff.

 

My main idea is to get this mistreated FLH up and running without a lot of oil leaks, and to check out the inside to see if there is any real readily visible damage from extra oil that was in it. The cam had a few light scratches, so I'm replacing the cam and lifters. After finding the rubber pieces in the breather I'm replacing it too. I've got the roller rocker arms sitting around, but if y'all say that they're noisy, I'll leave them on my shelf. I'm wanting to get this bike up and going to see if I like the bagger as much as I like my 96 sporty.


One more question, Any of you with the older bikes, do you change out your old electrical connections for the stereo and everything else under the fairing or do you use the stock ones?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
This ain't the first time luke has brought in weird *** ****. I reminded him the last time as well. This ain't a Freedom session. nor is it Brave Hearts push...



Sounds like you think neither would exist here without you.

 

Sounds like you're putting in a complete seal kit. My bet would be on MLS gaskets, have you chosen a source/brand? There is a "fix" for oil seeping around the base gasket which is fairly typical, see here. Other folks machine up their own o-ring set up to fit around locating inserts/oil ways on the cylinders. I have no experience of that, so I cannot comment. Only one on each cylinder actually passes oil.

Rocker covers are given to warping, so check them on a plate of glass or engineering flat if you have one big enough. Mine did, I'm current exploring alternatives to rubbing them flat on another topic (the more recent two piece Sportster ones). Manual will tell you just to check them and buy new.

If you don't have to pay for them, I'd still use the rollers. I just thought $300 - 400 could be spent otherwise. You can always trade and swop them later without taking the heads off.

You say your machining comes free, so why not "top and tail" your cylinders and heads to make them true *and* equalize them, setting the squish and compression at the same time? Don't take for granted that *anything* is the right size or equal to its other counter part.

What are you doing to the heads?

Electrics, I cannot help you with beyond batteries. It won't run without a good charge. There are 50 Amp upgrades for them if you ride slow but use a lot of juice.
You were wrong, it's not fish around here. It's bacterial vaginosis.

Now, please. Fun's over, let's show some respect; cut the noise, stick on topic and help this guy out.

 

James and Cometic make great gasket kits for sealing up a top end.
MLS stands for multi-layer steel and SLS stands for single-layer steel.

I used a Cometic kit on a friends E85 Super glide and it sealed it up great with no machining.

For all other gaskets get the foam covered steel ones (except rocker box gaskets) and you shouldn't have any trouble with leaks.

If you have no plans for your roller rockers I would be interested in taking them off your hands.

 

Mine is a 97 and spent a couple of years out in the weather. W. Texas weather is not to bad, it's the sun and time that kills things around here.

You might do some cking on the condition of the connectors and the terminals in them. Pin tension at the terminals is over looked alot, it results in a bad connection.
This is the best stuff I have found for cleaning terminals and connectors.
Then I use some dielectric grease in the connector before reassembly.

WP

 

Here`s 2 cents worth from someone who has lived with an `89 evo since new...

New lifters, oem are fine.

Save your money on adjustable pushrods, oem units are fine.

I replaced the nylon breather gear in my engine at 140k, with a new nylon gear...

While the cylinders are off, have your machinist true the bottom surfaces, this will go a long way toward eliminating any future base gasket leaks.

Inspect the rocker box parts carefully for warping, `89 was a problem year for these parts.

When reassembling the rocker boxes and pushrods, follow the factory service manual instructions very carefully to avoid bending a pushrod/valve.

The front belt sprocket was upgraded in late `94 to help prevent a problem of the sprocket retaining nut coming loose, you should seriously consider this upgrade.

 

The new style is P/N: 40250-94 (now a C revision), right?

I have two front pulleys, a 32T and a 34T. The 34T has a narrower width of splines and a different sized spacer to fit. Was this also part of the difference? As I write, I've never actually compared them.

What were the differences? 2 holes instead of 3 ...

How many teeth has your rear pulley, 1996?