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Carb Question '98 Softail

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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 09:38 AM
  #1  
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Default Carb Question '98 Softail

California bike originally sold at Biggs HD in San Diego. Original owner had what I think would be considered the Stage 1 done at the time, i.e. disconnected the evap canister (still need to get it out of its spot), disconnected the electrical connection running to the backing plate (the male end of the connnector is still there but), dumped the backing plate, added an aftermarket one along a K&N filter., added Kerker mufflers.

Only change has been the addition of a Ness backing plate breather system, and re-routed breather line to vent down to bottom of bike like done on shovels.

The problem...cold starts. Takes a good couple of miles before you can push the choke back in before it warms up sufficiently and it will run smoothly. Once it is warmed up, starts are fine. It's just those damn first cold starts.

So, those of you with Califonia model softails, what have you done to improve starting performance with the Kali carb. Not looking to change out the carb (original CV), just wanting to improve starting performance. Other than an occasional burp through the carb, it performs fine.

Have an '88 Softail I put on an S&S E carb and it starts and performs absolutely perfectly. That bike came out of Wisconsin, so it was never subjected to the KALI CARB bullshit.
 

Last edited by panz4ever; Oct 14, 2015 at 09:51 AM.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 09:54 AM
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I'm a fan of warming up the scoot before taking off on it. Do you do this?

I start mine and let it run on the choke (if needed to start it) about 30 seconds before pushing it in and running it on the throttle. If it is really cold, I use the throttle lock underneath to hold the revs where I want them until it will idle on it's own. about 2-3 minutes usually.

Improving the starting could be just a matter of air/fuel adjustment to the idle circuit. Have you drilled out the plug to get access to the a/f mixture screw on the bottom of the carb? Richening the mix a bit may help a lot in your problem.

Griz
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 10:52 AM
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I have never personally seen a carbed EVO big twin that didn't like some warm up time. That sounds normal.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by falconbrother
I have never personally seen a carbed EVO big twin that didn't like some warm up time. That sounds normal.
Yes, they like warmup time, but we 49ers don't have to deal with the Cal emissions bullsheet.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by panz4ever
California bike originally sold at Biggs HD in San Diego. Original owner had what I think would be considered the Stage 1 done at the time, i.e. disconnected the evap canister (still need to get it out of its spot), disconnected the electrical connection running to the backing plate (the male end of the connnector is still there but), dumped the backing plate, added an aftermarket one along a K&N filter., added Kerker mufflers.

Only change has been the addition of a Ness backing plate breather system, and re-routed breather line to vent down to bottom of bike like done on shovels.

The problem...cold starts. Takes a good couple of miles before you can push the choke back in before it warms up sufficiently and it will run smoothly. Once it is warmed up, starts are fine. It's just those damn first cold starts.

So, those of you with Califonia model softails, what have you done to improve starting performance with the Kali carb. Not looking to change out the carb (original CV), just wanting to improve starting performance. Other than an occasional burp through the carb, it performs fine.

Have an '88 Softail I put on an S&S E carb and it starts and performs absolutely perfectly. That bike came out of Wisconsin, so it was never subjected to the KALI CARB bullshit.
My bike came from California too.
It was always very cold blooded until I put a Dynatec 2000p ignition module.
Now I just start it and a few seconds later I push in the choke and set the throttle lock to about 1500 rpms while I finish getting ready then just ride.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 01:33 PM
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Until the jugs start producing heat my evo needs choke or steady 1500 rpm.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 11:06 PM
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Appreciate te replies from all. Owning Pans and Shovels in close to stock configurations (including carbs0 I have got accostumed to making sure the engine is warm befor taking off. However, the '88 out of Wisconsin with the S&S E starts in an instant and I could actually put it in gear and ride off without hesitaion or sputtering. I engage the choke, hit start, it fires up immediately and I turn the choke off. If I were to do it (turn the choke off) on the '98, it will sputter and almost die.

Gonna try the cheap route first (adjust air /fuel) and see what happens.

Texashillcountry...question for you please. The Dynatech set up..is that all you did?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by panz4ever
Appreciate te replies from all. Owning Pans and Shovels in close to stock configurations (including carbs0 I have got accostumed to making sure the engine is warm befor taking off. However, the '88 out of Wisconsin with the S&S E starts in an instant and I could actually put it in gear and ride off without hesitaion or sputtering. I engage the choke, hit start, it fires up immediately and I turn the choke off. If I were to do it (turn the choke off) on the '98, it will sputter and almost die.

Gonna try the cheap route first (adjust air /fuel) and see what happens.

Texashillcountry...question for you please. The Dynatech set up..is that all you did?
I'd have to check my records but I have replaced the VOES (precaution) and ignition pick up (corrosion in wires) at the same time (I think) as I did the 2000p (the plug into harness module).

Both VOES and ignition pick up are OEM.
 
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