What's your Harley worth?
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 2
From: Mo
I'd be more curious as to what you would take for it in a sale?
I have a 94 Ultra with a 113" or a 96" motor in it. Six speed Jim's gear set in it. Running either a SuperTrapp 2:1 SuperMegs or a V&H Pro-pipe on it. Stock tins and paint. Mustang seat. Saddle bag chrome rails and Glow-rails inside of them. Chrome front end with Progressive heavy springs up front and 440's on the rear. Chain final drive.
113" puts out 130 ponies and the 96" shows to do 104.
What's it worth and what would one have to spend to get one up to this speed performance wise if starting over?
I wouldn't take 10k for it myself. So I guess I better like it.. LOL..
Griz
I have a 94 Ultra with a 113" or a 96" motor in it. Six speed Jim's gear set in it. Running either a SuperTrapp 2:1 SuperMegs or a V&H Pro-pipe on it. Stock tins and paint. Mustang seat. Saddle bag chrome rails and Glow-rails inside of them. Chrome front end with Progressive heavy springs up front and 440's on the rear. Chain final drive.
113" puts out 130 ponies and the 96" shows to do 104.
What's it worth and what would one have to spend to get one up to this speed performance wise if starting over?
I wouldn't take 10k for it myself. So I guess I better like it.. LOL..
Griz
Supporter
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 32
From: Ft.Worth, Texas
I have full coverage on my 89 FLHTC and my insurance valued it at $6500.00. I did a stated value policy for $10,000.00 for about $5.00 more per month. Heck, the Iron Bags were $1300.00 themselves. If i add everything up thats been added or customized, it would take $10K to replace it. In the event of theft or, God forbid, having your bike totaled, its best to pay a little more for extra insurance if you need too. You can also have a customized bike appraised and submit that to your insurance for a quote. Its good to shop around for insurance too as the rates are all over the map. State Farm was the same price for me for full coverage as another company was for liability only.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,879
Likes: 10
From: Jacksonville
If you're buying, use NADA (they're lower). If you're selling, use KBB (they're higher). There are some decent EVOs going for as low as $5000 around here, but super pristine nice ones go anywhere from $7-10, mostly $7500.
Banned
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 760
Likes: 3
From: NYC
How about $31,500 for a 1993 FXR.
Nice spec, a well finished bike, but it sounds like he is asking full retail price plus labour for it.
Perhaps it's gone out of fashion since SOA went off air?
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Nice spec, a well finished bike, but it sounds like he is asking full retail price plus labour for it.
Perhaps it's gone out of fashion since SOA went off air?
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Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,895
Likes: 1,908
From: East Coast, USA
I believe most manufacturers (automobile, motorcycle) report horsepower numbers via an engine dyno. Why is this worthless? Can you name a mainstream car or motorcycle manufacturer that reports rear wheel horsepower? I can't think of any.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
What matters on any vehicle is rear wheel horsepower.
To be honest every industry inflates the numbers of the output of their devices.
That's how they suck in the gullible.
The important numbers are the ones about use able power.
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,895
Likes: 1,908
From: East Coast, USA
Because they are just inflated numbers that make them sound good.
What matters on any vehicle is rear wheel horsepower.
To be honest every industry inflates the numbers of the output of their devices.
That's how they suck in the gullible.
The important numbers are the ones about use able power.
What matters on any vehicle is rear wheel horsepower.
To be honest every industry inflates the numbers of the output of their devices.
That's how they suck in the gullible.
The important numbers are the ones about use able power.
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HP numbers are really nothing more than dick size contests anyway. Seems to me than on an HD, what you are looking for is a nice, flat load of torque from around 2300 to around 3700.
If you're putting out a nice, smooth 85 ft-lb of torque at 2300 RPM, that's only a "paltry" 40 HP. At 3700 RPM, it only goes up to 60 HP.
If you're putting out a nice, smooth 85 ft-lb of torque at 2300 RPM, that's only a "paltry" 40 HP. At 3700 RPM, it only goes up to 60 HP.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
Have you considered the possibility that rating an engine at the output shaft is the proper and scientific way of doing it? However, as illustrated in your post above, the work performed at the engine shaft does not take into account all of the power consumed in the drivetrain while trying to get the power to the ground so to speak. Two machines with identical engines can have quite a difference in power available at the rear wheels. Engines have to be rated for HP and torque at the output shaft but machines/vehicles should be rated where the useful work is performed to get a good idea of their efficiency and how much power there truly is to do what has to be done, in this case, moving the vehicle forward.