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most real shops that actually have a tool box not a fancy lap top and dyno / color coordinated uniforms and under wear that say F^ck house work
anyway the real shop in your local it is best to meet and use him, to install and ream the bushings if they are worn - we use a pin gauge to determine the inside wear - they might have an inside pin mike dial gauge maybe - you may need them again and saying hello to the local guys is helpful when your in a jam its not a thing
Some parts in today, main shaft race for inner primary bearing is a little taller, the rest is the same. Purchase bearing, seal and they said race required so I bought it even though mine was ok. Anyone swap this before ?? I'm thinking it won't be a problem unless it hit the clutch assembly here is pic....
Meaning,make sure new lifters are not sloppy in the lifter bore in the lifter blocks ?
Yes. However, I think the lifters actually run in the crank case like they do in a Twincam. On these, their running clearance is 0.0008-0.002 with 0.003 being the wear limit.
most real shops that actually have a tool box not a fancy lap top and dyno / color coordinated uniforms and under wear that say F^ck house work
anyway the real shop in your local it is best to meet and use him, to install and ream the bushings if they are worn - we use a pin gauge to determine the inside wear - they might have an inside pin mike dial gauge maybe - you may need them again and saying hello to the local guys is helpful when your in a jam its not a thing
So how do you really feel about it? Lol
I agree though. I have a good Indy I trust in town and he's a good guy. No machine work though, so found someone within an hour drive and I'll definitely be using him for anything that takes a special tool or skills I don't need to learn. Some stuff is better left to the pros.
most real shops that actually have a tool box not a fancy lap top and dyno / color coordinated uniforms and under wear that say F^ck house work
anyway the real shop in your local it is best to meet and use him, to install and ream the bushings if they are worn - we use a pin gauge to determine the inside wear - they might have an inside pin mike dial gauge maybe - you may need them again and saying hello to the local guys is helpful when your in a jam its not a thing
I gotcha, I'm going to measure them tomorrow where I work, we have pin gauges.
If the wear is out of range then I will have Indy that has my heads and jugs take care of it,if he can... any opinion on that race question?
it to me as I cant see the inside is a copy of the locking type but - as I said I cant see if its directional and it would have like a taper on the one end
if its just a straight tube its useless for what you need and like was said it may interfere with the hub locating on the spline correctly -- be careful with the china $hit they sell today
it to me as I cant see the inside is a copy of the locking type but - as I said I cant see if its directional and it would have like a taper on the one end
if its just a straight tube its useless for what you need and like was said it may interfere with the hub locating on the spline correctly -- be careful with the china $hit they sell today
Not a tube,chamfer on one end for easy on. Remember, tapered shaft, not spline...
Well I measured the bushings in the rockers and the wear was 0.0012 and the limit is 0.0035 so we'll just leave well enough alone.
Main shaft race, I may just shave it down to the size of old one..
Does anybody know what the grove Is for on the back side of the main shaft spacer ?
This side faces the drive gear/bearing, there was black residue there before I cleaned it.
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