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Hey Glider, What ya gonna do with the old ones. I was thinkin of going to a stretched setup. Think it'll fit a 98 fatboy?
I'm planning on boxing them up for a while, they are painted to match my fenders if I need to go back to them for some reason.
They do fit 84-99 fat bob split tanks.....
When installing new"dry" lifters, should they be pumped up with oil to remove the air in them ?
And slowly adjust the push rods on the base portion of the cam to bleed down, if so,what's the best way to load them with oil ?
When installing new"dry" lifters, should they be pumped up with oil to remove the air in them ?
And slowly adjust the push rods on the base portion of the cam to bleed down, if so,what's the best way to load them with oil ?
Some folks soak them in oil overnight. I never plan that far ahead and it seems to work out with just a few seconds of clatter. Get the pushrods to 0 lash (just making contact) on the base circle and adjust about .100 into the lifter travel. Wait until you can rotate the pushrod easily with your fingers before you rotate the engine to do the other cylinder. No need to do the .100 adjustment slowly.
When installing new"dry" lifters, should they be pumped up with oil to remove the air in them ?
And slowly adjust the push rods on the base portion of the cam to bleed down, if so,what's the best way to load them with oil ?
Hey Kevin, Like Outlaw I don't presoak. I will install and adjust @tdc from top down but to .140"-.148" use assembly lube. I don't like to bleed out the lifter and start from bottom up. There is the chance of possibly not being bled down all the way and if your tolerances are close, BAM......... when the manufacturer assembles them they do use lubricant. Just make sure before starting crank the motor three times for 15 seconds at 2 minute intervals to prime the entire motor and do it with the plugs out and coil disconnected..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Dec 13, 2015 at 04:50 PM.
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