Why do I need a battery?
Why is that?
Secondly, the stock alternator does not put out enough power with the engine at idle to run all the electrical systems in the bike and the battery discharges at a low rate when the bike is idling at a stop light with the brakes on and turn signals operating, as an example. So without the battery it would just quit.
The third thing is that the rectifier/regulator is a shunt type. The stator puts out full power all the time and the regulator shunts the excess to ground to regulate the voltage at ~14.4VDC. It requires the battery to be connected or its internal circuitry shuts it off to prevent the variable shunt resistor from burning out.
Secondly, the stock alternator does not put out enough power with the engine at idle to run all the electrical systems in the bike and the battery discharges at a low rate when the bike is idling at a stop light with the brakes on and turn signals operating, as an example. So without the battery it would just quit.
The third thing is that the rectifier/regulator is a shunt type. The stator puts out full power all the time and the regulator shunts the excess to ground to regulate the voltage at ~14.4VDC. It requires the battery to be connected or its internal circuitry shuts it off to prevent the variable shunt resistor from burning out.
Thank you, sir!
Tom
Secondly, the stock alternator does not put out enough power with the engine at idle to run all the electrical systems in the bike and the battery discharges at a low rate when the bike is idling at a stop light with the brakes on and turn signals operating, as an example. So without the battery it would just quit.
The third thing is that the rectifier/regulator is a shunt type. The stator puts out full power all the time and the regulator shunts the excess to ground to regulate the voltage at ~14.4VDC. It requires the battery to be connected or its internal circuitry shuts it off to prevent the variable shunt resistor from burning out.
Secondly, the stock alternator does not put out enough power with the engine at idle to run all the electrical systems in the bike and the battery discharges at a low rate when the bike is idling at a stop light with the brakes on and turn signals operating, as an example. So without the battery it would just quit.
The third thing is that the rectifier/regulator is a shunt type. The stator puts out full power all the time and the regulator shunts the excess to ground to regulate the voltage at ~14.4VDC. It requires the battery to be connected or its internal circuitry shuts it off to prevent the variable shunt resistor from burning out.
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Since there is no way to control the magnetic field in the alternator core the only way the regulator can control the voltage is to shunt excess current to ground. Most regulators have a self-protection circuit in it that will shut it down if the variable shunt resistor gets too hot. And that will happen if you remove the battery load from it. The regulator circuit is designed to have a huge capacitor in it - that capacitor is the battery. At that point, if you have a broken battery cable the bike has no electrical power so it just quits because there's no ignition.
The old Harley's with a DC generator would run without a battery once the generator field was excited. The newer ones with permanent magnet alternators will either blow the regulator or the regulator will shut it down if you disconnect the battery. And the other thing that is possible if you disconnect the battery with the alternator putting out close to full power is that there will be a momentary voltage spike that could blow some of your bulbs or other electronics. That voltage spike is caused by suddenly removing the capacitor (battery) from the circuit and the regulator now attempts to compensate for it by shunting to ground. But the DC power output is very dirty because the sine wave on the AC side is more of a square sine wave without that battery in the circuit, so the self-protection disconnects it to prevent damage.
In theory, a three-phase permanent magnet alternator could power the bike without a battery, assuming the voltage regulator circuit is fast enough, and robust enough, to control it. But Harley's are all single phase except for some of the newer bikes with ~50-52A alternators, which I believe are three-phase.
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So the PM alternators in motorcycles "self excite" but they don't put out enough power at the speed you can turn it at by pushing it to do anything.
The AC voltage from the stator is lower than the rectified DC voltage because AC is measured by RMS (Root Mean Square). The actual peak voltage is 1.414x the AC RMS value. This is true for any AC power source, including the single-phase 120V AC power in your house outlets - the actual peak voltage is around 170 if you put a scope on it and measure the amplitude of the sine wave. When rectified to DC you get the peak voltage value and not RMS.
With a single phase power source there is also a 1.4V forward drop in the diode bridge - 0.7V per diode. A PM alternator produces a set number of volts per revolution, usually expressed the other way - rpm's/volt. And this holds fairly true, although there is some reactance loss in the core so the faster it turns, the more rpm's it requires for every volt increase in output.
In the end, the single-phase unit used in Harley's has to be turning at at least 850 rpm to overcome the reverse bias in the diode bridge before it will start putting out any power to the electrical system.
Three-phase alternators, wired wye, produce 1.732x (square root of 3) single phase voltage, measured phase to phase. So they are more efficient than single phase, with lower resistance stator, and less heat for the same size of alternator. There are several aftermarket manufacturers that make three-phase systems for Harley's.












