EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Finally Started Reassembly

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 2, 2016 | 07:05 PM
  #21  
glidein wide's Avatar
glidein wide
Stellar HDF Member
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Liked
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,504
Likes: 150
From: ct
Default

Sounds good bro, curious why you discarded the voes.......
 
Reply
Old Mar 2, 2016 | 07:54 PM
  #22  
98hotrodfatboy's Avatar
98hotrodfatboy
Thread Starter
|
Seasoned HDF Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Top Answer: 5
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 20,963
Likes: 7,492
From: Poolville
Default

I copy/paste this from this link..
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engin...explained.html
"The VOES is a motorcycle part described as a vacuum ignition retard device. That is, under low vacuum conditions the switch is open and has no effect on ignition timing. Under high vacuum, the switch closes and advances ignition timing. Essentially, the VOES is like the vacuum advance in older type automotive distributors.

For racing applications or supercharged, turbo-charged or bikes using Nitrous Oxide, we do not recommend using a VOES. This is due to the possibility of a sudden timing change causing a backfire which can be a bad thing under these conditions! "

My response is this: "I don't like them"
On a light tip in on the throttle the switch will will remain closed fully advancing the ignition timing causing the possibility of pre-ignition, this occurs at 1500 rpm and above. Not something I want on a high compression motor pe-igniton could lead to detonation which is real bad for any motor. Under a hard throttle where the vacuum drops below 5" the switch opens which will retard the timing 10 degrees to a total of 25* advance. Do you really want only 25* advance at full throttle and at 4000 rpm. I hardly think so at that point cause now your limiting your timing advance and robbing the motor of power.

One major change I noticed is that I no longer get a ignition chug, almost a pinging or rattling like to much timing under the load of starting off from a stop. The motor now accelerates very nicely from a stop, no chug.

Once my motor is broke in properly I will be going to a timing advance curve that I have specifically set up for my build and will never have full advance at a tip in @ 2200 rpm but will still have 31*@3100 rpm and 38@3800 rpm etc. It will be aggressively matched to the proper rpm without having any detonation but will be set for optimal performance.

In the old days I did the same with the ignition on my SBC's Using Accel distributors without vacuum advance and setting up the centrifugal advance by changing spring tension to determine the ignition curve and when full advance would come in..

I hope this explains it for you but it is all a personal preference.....

Actually this link probably explains it best.

http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/down...ct/D2Ki-1P.pdf
 

Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Mar 2, 2016 at 08:00 PM.
Reply
Old Mar 3, 2016 | 05:17 AM
  #23  
glidein wide's Avatar
glidein wide
Stellar HDF Member
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Liked
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,504
Likes: 150
From: ct
Default

Good response, thanks bud...
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dyna50
Engine Mechanical Topics
28
Sep 10, 2023 12:06 PM
Meatpants
Shovelhead
7
Mar 27, 2017 07:28 PM
128auto
General Harley Davidson Chat
6
May 30, 2013 10:51 AM
999red999
Exhaust System Topics
7
Feb 16, 2010 06:27 AM
streetbobjim
Sportster Models
8
Nov 24, 2006 09:29 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:27 AM.