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I am going to make the change to chain drive on the 87 Heritage.
Looking at JPs site, I'm seeing a lot of stuff that says it fits my bike, but could use a little guideance.
I am seeing dished and flat rear sprockets. Does anyone know what is the normal one to use? I had a look on Ronnies site for infro, but it doesn't say if the rear sprocket is dished or flat. Though the pic they show looks dished to me. If I need dished, I would rather go that route in the first place. I don't really want to get into adding spacers between the wheel hub and sprocket if I don't have to.
Regarding the trans sprocket, is there a know offset for this? I'm seeing everthing from flat , and several offsets. On Ronnies site, they did list shimd in different thicknesses.Should I get a flat sprocket and machine a spacer to go behind it to get the two aligned?
Anyone been there, done that, and could offer some help?
I want to get the sprockets sorted out without sending parts back for return. Being I'm in Canada, shipping / duty cost are pretty high, and our dollar value is not at its best.
I want to get the sprockets sorted out without sending parts back for return.
To answer any questions about offsets, need to know what size tire you plan on running. Zippers is the go to for chain conversion...I would imagine one phone call to them, could have the correct kit on the way to you tomorrow.
Not to take away from your idea but......if you run a rear chain, how are you going to lube it so that it doesn't rust out?
What are you talking about? Many of us rode chain drive Harley's and other bikes for years. I usually used a spray chain lube that would get tacky once it set.
That being said, I have no desire for another chain driven bike. I had a Sportster that was chain driven. I eventually put a belt on it and reduction in vibration was night and day.
Yeah, some spray on lube if you need it. Buy a good O ring chain to start with. If I was going back to a chain, that's what I would do.
We put a belt drive kit on Dr.L's Sportster. WAY better than the original chain we wore out before we go the bike home from the dealer.
My friends rode from Central Texas to Anchorage, AK and back on shovelheads. With a new chain before they left, one's chain was toast when they got to Anchorage. He bought an O ring chain at the dealer, not wanting that expensive of a chain, but that's all they had. He adjusted it once on the whole trip back.
Anyway, short of some kind of monster tire or mega-HP and planning on burnouts, I'll stick with the belts.
To answer any questions about offsets, need to know what size tire you plan on running. Zippers is the go to for chain conversion...I would imagine one phone call to them, could have the correct kit on the way to you tomorrow.
Talk to Pete at zippers... He knows his **** and he'll take all the guess work out of it for you. I did the 530 o-ring kit and am extremely happy with it... And yes with chain wax it is very quiet.
If you look in my profile and go to my "New Mods" you'll see the setup....
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Mar 17, 2016 at 09:03 PM.
I know going from belt to chain is not very popular with the belt drive crowd. I run chain drive on shovelheads in the past, and didn't have any problems, and that was over 30 yrs ago. With todays o-ring and x-ring chains, I think it should be fine for me.
My sprockets are now toast, and in really rough shape. I guess over the years has picked up too many small bits of sharp stones and pebbles. The belt has small holes in it, along with a few teeth ripped off it. So this time around its going to be chain drive. If for some reason I don't like the chain, it can allways be swapped back to belt drive. Also I don't have a big HP motor, and still run a 130 tire, and that's ok with me too.
My days of long cruises are long gone, these days a 3-hour cruise is enough for me.
if you run a rear chain, how are you going to lube it so that it doesn't rust out?
Modern o-ring chains do not require lubrication. The only place a chain needs lube is inside the rollers...an o-ring chain is sealed so the lube cannot get out. Putting lube on the outside just attracts dirt, and makes the chain wear out faster. Occasionally cleaning and inspecting the rollers is all that is required. Stuck rollers is what wears out the sprockets. I run a nickel plated chain so rust is a non issue.
I like your chain and brake setup Tom.
On the O-Ring chains, you need to use a chain wax. It's a clear spray that leaves no residue to be slung off when driving. It's to keep the o-rings from drying out.
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