How Much Slack Do You Set In Your Primary Chain?
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 283
Likes: 44
From: WV
The part I don't get is that this is the same motor and trans as on my FXR (both are 90's), and the FXR couldn't be any easier to find neutral. Easiest neutral I've ever had on any bike, in fact.
The FLHTC has moods. Some times, it's easy. Most of the time, either the "neutral while coasting to a stop" or "blip the throttle" techniques work. Some days, nothing works.
The FLHTC has moods. Some times, it's easy. Most of the time, either the "neutral while coasting to a stop" or "blip the throttle" techniques work. Some days, nothing works.
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,816
Likes: 7,847
From: SE Louisiana
Since this is more of a no neutral thread, a few checks that may be overlooked,
- get into the clutch and check the spring plate, or eliminate it with a +1 clutch pack.
-check the shift pawl adjustment
-grab the ring gear on one side and push and pull, if there's slack, either the clutch bearing needs replaced, or the clutch hub to mainshaft splines have wear, watch the primary chain when checking this, enough slack in the clutch basket, and the chain tightens and loosens when checking
-wouldn't hurt to check the compensator to clutch sprocket alignment while your in there
- get into the clutch and check the spring plate, or eliminate it with a +1 clutch pack.
-check the shift pawl adjustment
-grab the ring gear on one side and push and pull, if there's slack, either the clutch bearing needs replaced, or the clutch hub to mainshaft splines have wear, watch the primary chain when checking this, enough slack in the clutch basket, and the chain tightens and loosens when checking
-wouldn't hurt to check the compensator to clutch sprocket alignment while your in there
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 6,570
Likes: 590
From: almost there
Since this is more of a no neutral thread, a few checks that may be overlooked,
- get into the clutch and check the spring plate, or eliminate it with a +1 clutch pack.
-grab the ring gear on one side and push and pull, if there's slack, either the clutch bearing needs replaced, or the clutch hub to mainshaft splines have wear, watch the primary chain when checking this, enough slack in the clutch basket, and the chain tightens and loosens when checking
-wouldn't hurt to check the compensator to clutch sprocket alignment while your in there
- get into the clutch and check the spring plate, or eliminate it with a +1 clutch pack.
-grab the ring gear on one side and push and pull, if there's slack, either the clutch bearing needs replaced, or the clutch hub to mainshaft splines have wear, watch the primary chain when checking this, enough slack in the clutch basket, and the chain tightens and loosens when checking
-wouldn't hurt to check the compensator to clutch sprocket alignment while your in there
You beat me to it Schex and did a much better job explaining.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,504
Likes: 150
From: ct
The part I don't get is that this is the same motor and trans as on my FXR (both are 90's), and the FXR couldn't be any easier to find neutral. Easiest neutral I've ever had on any bike, in fact.
The FLHTC has moods. Some times, it's easy. Most of the time, either the "neutral while coasting to a stop" or "blip the throttle" techniques work. Some days, nothing works.
The FLHTC has moods. Some times, it's easy. Most of the time, either the "neutral while coasting to a stop" or "blip the throttle" techniques work. Some days, nothing works.
Readjust and try to mimic the FXR, pull the case at the lever and compare for starters the play there and when it starts to grab running at ONLY an idle. Hope this actually made sense. LOL.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
What we can see from the replies to date is that this is not a consistent thing! I have recently replaced my clutch plates with a Barnett plus-one set, as part of my campaign to improve life. There is nothing worst than riding in heavy traffic and being unable to select neutral except in perfect conditions, while still rolling. I've had to pull over a few times now, simply to ease the strain on my poor weedy clutch wrist!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 103
From: St. Louis, MO
As posted above, in my case it was clutch drag and increasing the clutch disengagement by making the cable housing about ź" longer cured it. It's free and takes 30 seconds to try.
Once on my twin cam I noticed neutral was becoming hard to find and it's normally easy as pie. I looked, and sure enough, I had not tightened the cable locknut tight enough after swapping handlebars and the clutch cable had contracted. Reset it and all's been good for years.
I saw a little rule of thumb that works well for me, I put a nickel between the clutch lever and the control and tighten the cable housing to that mark - in other words, have a nickel's worth of free play at the clutch lever, and that works very well for me.
Just some ideas for folks. Free to try.
Once on my twin cam I noticed neutral was becoming hard to find and it's normally easy as pie. I looked, and sure enough, I had not tightened the cable locknut tight enough after swapping handlebars and the clutch cable had contracted. Reset it and all's been good for years.
I saw a little rule of thumb that works well for me, I put a nickel between the clutch lever and the control and tighten the cable housing to that mark - in other words, have a nickel's worth of free play at the clutch lever, and that works very well for me.
Just some ideas for folks. Free to try.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,492
Likes: 610
From: USA
On my 94 FLHTP, I set the primary chain tension to the middle of the specs. I've always run the HD recommended fluids in both the transmission and primary. I'm running Formula+ now. I never had a problem finding neutral. On the other hand, my 14 FLHTK was a real pain to find neutral until either I got use to it or it got broken in with over the last 2 1/2 years.
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As posted above, in my case it was clutch drag and increasing the clutch disengagement by making the cable housing about ź" longer cured it. It's free and takes 30 seconds to try.
Once on my twin cam I noticed neutral was becoming hard to find and it's normally easy as pie. I looked, and sure enough, I had not tightened the cable locknut tight enough after swapping handlebars and the clutch cable had contracted. Reset it and all's been good for years.
I saw a little rule of thumb that works well for me, I put a nickel between the clutch lever and the control and tighten the cable housing to that mark - in other words, have a nickel's worth of free play at the clutch lever, and that works very well for me.
Just some ideas for folks. Free to try.
Once on my twin cam I noticed neutral was becoming hard to find and it's normally easy as pie. I looked, and sure enough, I had not tightened the cable locknut tight enough after swapping handlebars and the clutch cable had contracted. Reset it and all's been good for years.
I saw a little rule of thumb that works well for me, I put a nickel between the clutch lever and the control and tighten the cable housing to that mark - in other words, have a nickel's worth of free play at the clutch lever, and that works very well for me.
Just some ideas for folks. Free to try.
If you are not getting enough release then re-adjust your clutch and back off the adjuster screw less than you normally do. For example if you normally back it off a 1/2 turn back it off a 1/4 of a turn this time.
If you are already at a 1/4 turn and still not getting enough release your cable may be binding and in need of replacement.
Remember also that finding neutral is a "Half Shift" meaning the throw that it takes to get from say 2nd to 3rd gear is twice as much as shifting from 1st to neutral. Just takes a tap.
Hope all this helps.
5/8 is where I try to set my free play more if necessary but never less.
Supporter
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 32
From: Ft.Worth, Texas
From what we've seen 95% of the time it is clutch drag causing the issue. Here is the near full proof method. Get a dial indicator and put in on the pressure plate. Pull in the handle and measure the clutch throw. You want about .080 of release. Any less and yes it will be a bear to find neutral.
If you are not getting enough release then re-adjust your clutch and back off the adjuster screw less than you normally do. For example if you normally back it off a 1/2 turn back it off a 1/4 of a turn this time.
If you are already at a 1/4 turn and still not getting enough release your cable may be binding and in need of replacement.
Remember also that finding neutral is a "Half Shift" meaning the throw that it takes to get from say 2nd to 3rd gear is twice as much as shifting from 1st to neutral. Just takes a tap.
Hope all this helps.
5/8 is where I try to set my free play more if necessary but never less.
If you are not getting enough release then re-adjust your clutch and back off the adjuster screw less than you normally do. For example if you normally back it off a 1/2 turn back it off a 1/4 of a turn this time.
If you are already at a 1/4 turn and still not getting enough release your cable may be binding and in need of replacement.
Remember also that finding neutral is a "Half Shift" meaning the throw that it takes to get from say 2nd to 3rd gear is twice as much as shifting from 1st to neutral. Just takes a tap.
Hope all this helps.
5/8 is where I try to set my free play more if necessary but never less.