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In an earlier post about my seemingly endless quest to find neutral on my FLHTC, Tom84FXST suggested that maybe the primary chain was too tight.
So last night I decided to dig into that. I went ahead and pulled the whole cover off so I could get a precise measurement. I was somewhat surprised to find that the chain was just over spec on the loose side. The manual calls for 5/8" to 7/8" of play, and it measured right at 0.9" on my gauge.
So I decided to tighten it up. Put it at 3/4", exactly in the middle of the spec range.
Won't have the opportunity to road test this until my rear brake master cylinder rebuild kit arrives, so no idea if this helped.
Anyway, curious what my fellow Evoistas do on this.
That's about where I set it, but I rotate it around and check it at various spots on the chain because it can and is different sometimes.... My EVO has a tensioner installed so I've not had to do it for awhile but my twinkie is just impossible to hit Neutral unless coasting to a stop so I know what you are going through.. I've adjusted everything I can think of and I'm getting ready to put ATF in the primary and try that...
The part I don't get is that this is the same motor and trans as on my FXR (both are 90's), and the FXR couldn't be any easier to find neutral. Easiest neutral I've ever had on any bike, in fact.
The FLHTC has moods. Some times, it's easy. Most of the time, either the "neutral while coasting to a stop" or "blip the throttle" techniques work. Some days, nothing works.
Anyway, curious what my fellow Evoistas do on this.
I've had a Hayden's M6 since late 1993. So I don't need to fiddle with that.
You'll find that a major issue finding neutral is oil level in the primary. Too high, and it's a **** to find neutral. Fill it per factory specs with the bike upright and level.
In an earlier post about my seemingly endless quest to find neutral on my FLHTC, Tom84FXST suggested that maybe the primary chain was too tight.
I've found that viscous drag on the clutch is the more likely culprit for hard-to-find neutral, or "clunk" when engaging first gear from neutral. The drag on the clutch plates puts a little pressure on the gear (either first or second), so you tend to tap on the lever a little harder with your boot to overcome it, and then it goes past and into the other gear.
I have long used ATF in the primary (and transmission) in mine and never had any problems with the stock clutch. I got a Barnett clutch in it now, and other than a little harder lever pull than the stock clutch, it snicks right into neutral from first gear, just tapping on the heel lever with my boot. Going from second into neutral is a little less positive and it tends to want to go past into first gear. So I usually go from first to neutral and then can hit it every time.
It is possible you have a little wear on the neutral detent on your shift drum too. But with the engine shut off if you can find it every time and it's a positive "click" when it goes into neutral, that's probably not the case. But if it still wants to slide right past into the next gear with the engine shut down, probably time to take a look at the shift drum.
Last edited by Harley-Davidson; Mar 30, 2016 at 03:14 PM.
My 95 Road King owners manual said that you could only get to neutral from first, not from second. Learning that information cut my missed tries by ˝, and adjusting the cable to disengage the clutch a bit more (make the cable housing a little longer) cured my neutral problems.
That's about where I set it, but I rotate it around and check it at various spots on the chain because it can and is different sometimes....
I always set mine at 3/4...but you have to find the tightest spot on the chain to set it...mine always goes into neutral like butter. I have tried many different primary oils, and could never tell any difference on finding neutral...ATF defiantly reduced "first gear clunk" but I could hear the chain whine at speed which drove me nuts.
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