Year?
Model?
Fuel injected?
For example: If you had an M & M fuel injected bike i might suggest reading the codes with the speedometer/run switch sequence.
Then i would expect for you to report a code #56.
Then i would suggest you check for the melted goo under the timer cover since the cam position sensor would be on the way out.
or
I would suggest checking all (4) FOUR ends of your battery cables.

 

In his low oil pressure thread, some tell him to throw his oil pressure gauge away, now some say to put one on.

Which is it?

"throw the oil pressure gauge away", what a dumb answer.

what now, "throw the light away"?

 

After talking to a technician at Jaggs I have ruled out a problem with the cooler/thermostat or installation.


I will replace the oil pressure sending unit ($12.95 at Stealership). Also, I will check/replace the tappet screen.


If that doesn't do it, well?


It is MM EFI (groan). I am unaware of checking the codes as "im" suggests but will look into service manual for it.


If the engine light is not "on" when checking codes I probably will see no code faults?


As to checking under the timer cover for goo, I will save that for later.


Only 22k on clock...

 

Thats how we "fixed" the Check Engine lights on the early GM C3 cars in 1981

 

TO CHECK FOR CODES ON M & M EFI:
1-turn ignition key switch to ignition and then turn off 1 second after fuel pump stops. Make sure the run/stop switch om bars is on RUN
2.repeat #1 again..remember 1 second after pump stops
3.turn ignition key switch to ignition and wait about 8 seconds for a bunch of flashing of the check engine light
it will then stop for 2 seconds..get ready... these are the codes you must count:
it will very slowly flash 1,2,3,5....there is NO 4....this is the first digit of the 2 digit code ..so it can only be 1,2,3,5 __ __
then a 2 second pause...then you will get second digit of the 2 digit code very slowly..it can only be 1,2,3,4,5,6
remember after the complete 2 digit code is given you will go back to the rapid flash sequence.. the very rapid flash is not a code.
there are a total of 15 codes available with this procedure
examples
52,53,54,55 bad news ECM replacement
56 crank/cam sensor
11 throttle sensor
12 barometric
14 engine temp. sensor
15 intake temp sensor
23 and 32 are injectors front/rear
24 coil
33 fuel pump relay--in this case you would not hear the pump but instead waited 3 seconds after the on / off sequence

 

Unfortunately the year and model was not provided.
First, do not buy or change something without first confirming.
It will only confuse the situation because you are introducing another variable.
The tappet screen is rarely if ever dirty, but if you have the correct tool or can make a flat bar then i guess it would be worth checking, but i do not think that would cause your problem light.
We now know it is an EVO, EFI with 22,000 miles, it has an intermittently lit check engine light and an oil cooler with thermostat.
Since it is M & M then it must be from about 1995 to about 2001 although model was not indicated.
The easiest and cheapest thing to check would be the goo i mentioned before.
I would not check later but instead NOW.
It is about as easy to check as looking at your shoe laces since no tools are required, no removal of anything.
Throttle side of bike, look at foot board, get flashlight if dark and look at area below/under the timer cone, the area below the 3 inch circle, look at the black wire that exits under the cone near frame, look for beige/tan plastic like goo that exits that wire hole.
Again, no screw driver or wrench needed.
The goo is the cam position sensor melting. If you see goo then at that point we would look inside but no need if there is no beige/tan goo.
NOTE: any bad start, a back-fire, a fart during starting will trigger a code 56.
Codes are retained as historical for something like 50 on/off cycles and the light will come on Intermittently as you described.
It would be a solid light if the problem still existed.
Since light turns off while riding then it is historical.
You have a very low mileage bike.
After rereading your post a few times i am inclined to think you probably had a bad start during your installation..a simple back-fire or maybe you tried cranking with the oil sensor disconnected or something else that caused a bad start.
Reading the codes as indicated will confirm.
It should be a code 56.
To reset/erase code just disconnect the negative battery cable for about 5 seconds.
M & M is a very simple system, actually mush less complex than Delphi, some people put it down but in reality the most common problem is that very few techs and DIY folks know about simple diagnostic procedures.

 

and there's a huge section in the factory service manual that tells you everything you ever wanted to know about those horrible fuel injected Harleys. for the touring models, it's section 9.


carl

 

Thank you im and others for your very helpful replies.

I disconnected the battery neg. terminal to clear code and found it was somewhat loose. Tighter than finger tight but not snug.

I tightened both terminal bolts and the intermittent engine trouble light has stayed out.

I was pricing out a voltage regulator/rectifier and stator thinking the worst.

This proves the saying " always check the easy stuff first".

One reason I leap to the worst conclusions when I have a bike problem is my other bike is a Shovelhead...

 

Something else to look at... If your problem comes back when it gets hot out and it has just started doing this since your last oil change, you might have a bad bypass valve in your oil filter.

Cheers,

Zach

 

Thanks Zach! I would never have suspected that. The oil filter came from V-Twin soooo....