I had a Comp Cams 3050 in my 89" stroker, with Branch EVO heads, I don't actually remember the exact compression but I think it was 9.5 to 1. Ran really good! S&S Super E!

Just to add to this, I sent my bottom end to Truett and Osborne, they rebuilt it and installed the 4 5/8's flywheels. Also S&S at the time offered flat top short skirt stroker pistons. I honed the cylinders, installed a CC 3010 cam, Branch heads, Super E and Carls Speed Shop 2 into 2 exhaust. I did not like the 3010 cam and swapped out for the 3050.

http://www.truettandosborn.com/Flywheels.htm

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1120&sb=2

http://www.branchokeefe.com/heads.html

 

You would need high lift springs for a W6H cam but would you need to have recesses cut into the head? Would you need different rockers to run the 6H cam? I seen on S&S site that they recommend anything over about .585 lift to run roller rockers.

Looking at Wood Performance dyno sheets, it seems that the W6H is consistently about 10hp better than the W6. Torque is a little closer together.

 

Most good shops will install new guides and clearance the top of the stem to clear cam lift for up to 625 lift so yes to clearancing if that was your question, if you are referring to recessing the valve in the seat that would be a no, usually a 5 angle by the good shops.

The W6H has been dependable engine without using roller rockers and yes I saw the specs also on over 585 but no problems. If you break down cams the Woods will provide better numbers because of it's aggressive lobe design but also aggressive on the valve train, may have to play with lifter push tube depth but not always, my Woods cam is undetectable with noise. Comp Cams get results with basic lobes and a good choice but a bagger doesn't need intake closing over 42 unless you jump up the compression but then you are splitting hairs with detonation. A Comp 5005 is a good cam with 10-1 and really nasty power down low but the W6H will pull deeper in rpm's.

You don't have to run a 585 cam with the 4 5/8 crank but from experience the 89" will pull hard thru the low range and carry quickly into the mids, it is just a shame to have a cam peter out past 4500 and have to short shift all them instead of being able to see 5000 plus with ease.

Will post more later

 

I am trying to use the Big Boyz Calculator.


So when starting to input the data, I would set it to stock bore 3.498, stroke to 4.625, rods for my flywheels are 7.440, and then play with my piston dome volume to get 9.25:1 static compression ratio? The S&S 106-5556 pistons are advertised at 9.25:1. Then set my bore to 3.518 to reflect the .020 bore increase and play with the cc volume to get the desired 10:1?

 

Yes sir, it will be 75-76 cc's, but beware earlier cam intake closing (38) will raise cylinder pressure, that is why 40-42 intake closing works well at 10-1. There is a old school darkhorse cam Mackie 580 and is a killer with a 89" if you want a cam that spreads the power all the way thru, had a W6H and a Mackie 580 at the same time, W6H went in my engine and the Mackie is in my buddies 80" and one tough bike in a street race.

 

I ended up just going with a W6. Just don't quite have the funds to drop on everything needed to step up to the W6H.

When my dad had my bike, he was in a Road King kick. Removed the fairing and put on a nacelle. I ordered an inner and outer fairing, guages, etc the night before I realized that the sound that I was hearing in the lower end was not my compensator and in fact my front rod bearing shitting the bed.

 

I put a W6 & a set of SE heads with .030 Cometics on an 80in last week & it runs real nice with a nice fat power band. I don't think you will be disappointed with the W6.

 

With the 4 5/8 and W6 will make you smile in everyday riding conditions, put the .030 head gaskets in it also like Tommy mentioned. Tommy's SE heads are 72 cc's and most likely a 80 incher because 72 cc's with the 4 5/8 is detonation prone on a early intake closing cam because cylinder pressure is heading out of bounds. The SE heads put a 80" at 9.5-1 so you will get the same results he is speaking of, the SE heads are stronger in midrange than a stock Evo head but not down low in rpm's.

One more thing, calculate your depth per thread turns on the push tubes if you are going with adjustables, those Woods cams like lifter depth at .140-.150 instead of .100. Evo's cylinder height will grow with heat and lifter depth will slightly be less with the growth, Woods cam profile is aggressive and kinda shocks a valve train, setting them deep in the lifters will control the recovery of the valve train shock and take up the difference in the growth with heat. Your going to like the throttle roll on with this set up and clearly the 89" is a great engine for daily riding, dependable as it can be and when the 89" was in the White Bike, it would pull away from Stage 2 103" Street Glides all day long

 

As a footnote the cold cranking pressure is 185 on both cylinders with my setup & because the heads have a tight squish band it runs on 87 octane with no pinging.

 

Glad you mention that. My bike always pinged with regular. When I did the rebuild, I set the squish and haven't tried a tank of regular yet. I'll have to try it. Been buying premium out of habit.