Exhaust port and studs
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 67
Likes: 1
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Exhaust port and studs
Hey everyone,
I got a bassani road rage for my 91 FXR in the mail today. Hurray!
I got my old pipes off and notice the exhaust ports aren't exactly shiny clean. How much should I clean them up? Pics attached.
I can't find anything at all to do with the exhaust or the studs, torque specs, etc. in my factory service manual. Does anyone know the torque specs of the studs and nuts?
It looks like at least one of my studs has messed up threads so I think I'd prefer to put in news studs if it's not too much of a pain in the *** or too big a can of worms (if stuck, one breaks, etc).
On a side note I have the wrong exhaust gaskets (shovelhead, copper) and all the bike shops are closed so I have to wait until tomorrow to button it all up anyway.
Thanks!
I got a bassani road rage for my 91 FXR in the mail today. Hurray!
I got my old pipes off and notice the exhaust ports aren't exactly shiny clean. How much should I clean them up? Pics attached.
I can't find anything at all to do with the exhaust or the studs, torque specs, etc. in my factory service manual. Does anyone know the torque specs of the studs and nuts?
It looks like at least one of my studs has messed up threads so I think I'd prefer to put in news studs if it's not too much of a pain in the *** or too big a can of worms (if stuck, one breaks, etc).
On a side note I have the wrong exhaust gaskets (shovelhead, copper) and all the bike shops are closed so I have to wait until tomorrow to button it all up anyway.
Thanks!
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 307
Likes: 108
Lock two nuts against each other on the stud you want to remove, then rotate the INBOARD nut with a wrench to break the old stud loose. Some just spin out on their own, and if the head thread are good that's fine. I have over 100K miles on my '88 with a fair number of exhaust removals and no problems. Done many other customer bikes.
I don't clean exhaust ports other than wiping them off. They'll seal up fine. New gaskets are nice but many times on many Evos I've just given the old ones a light smear of clear RTV. (Works on Jap bikes too.)
I'm glad I bought a Road Rage, and should have bought a second but wanted to try a Thunderheader which was a mistake. The Road Rage exhaust mounting is FAR superior and build quality is excellent.
Save your stock exhaust for the future collector market. They ain't making any more of them and the front pipe is unique with that slight upward jog at the end.
I don't clean exhaust ports other than wiping them off. They'll seal up fine. New gaskets are nice but many times on many Evos I've just given the old ones a light smear of clear RTV. (Works on Jap bikes too.)
I'm glad I bought a Road Rage, and should have bought a second but wanted to try a Thunderheader which was a mistake. The Road Rage exhaust mounting is FAR superior and build quality is excellent.
Save your stock exhaust for the future collector market. They ain't making any more of them and the front pipe is unique with that slight upward jog at the end.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 3,070
From: Brighton, MI
I suggest you leave the studs alone unless they are stripped. Just chase the threads with a threading die (5/16-24) and leave well enough alone.
A small wire brush to the area where the gasket sits will clean things up nicely. Not sure, but some manufacturers suggest a certain type of gasket to be used for their pipes. You have a few options, the stock taper mesh gaskets, the flat "racing" mesh gasket, or even the copper style like you had on there. Depends on the pipe and what the manufacturer of the pipe wants.
The exhaust flange nut torque value is 60 INCH lbs.
According to the manual, fit the head pipes in place and install flange nuts finger tight. Then install any holding brackets finger tight only. Install mufflers and clamps finger tight. Starting at front cylinder, torque top flange nut to spec, then lower flange nut, then repeat for the rear cylinder. Then torque the holding brackets. Finally, torque the muffler clamps and any heat shields.
I prefer to put the mufflers back on after the bolts and holding brackets are mounted and torqued tight. YD
A small wire brush to the area where the gasket sits will clean things up nicely. Not sure, but some manufacturers suggest a certain type of gasket to be used for their pipes. You have a few options, the stock taper mesh gaskets, the flat "racing" mesh gasket, or even the copper style like you had on there. Depends on the pipe and what the manufacturer of the pipe wants.
The exhaust flange nut torque value is 60 INCH lbs.
According to the manual, fit the head pipes in place and install flange nuts finger tight. Then install any holding brackets finger tight only. Install mufflers and clamps finger tight. Starting at front cylinder, torque top flange nut to spec, then lower flange nut, then repeat for the rear cylinder. Then torque the holding brackets. Finally, torque the muffler clamps and any heat shields.
I prefer to put the mufflers back on after the bolts and holding brackets are mounted and torqued tight. YD
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 67
Likes: 1
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia
I suggest you leave the studs alone unless they are stripped. Just chase the threads with a threading die (5/16-24) and leave well enough alone.
A small wire brush to the area where the gasket sits will clean things up nicely. Not sure, but some manufacturers suggest a certain type of gasket to be used for their pipes. You have a few options, the stock taper mesh gaskets, the flat "racing" mesh gasket, or even the copper style like you had on there. Depends on the pipe and what the manufacturer of the pipe wants.
The exhaust flange nut torque value is 60 INCH lbs.
According to the manual, fit the head pipes in place and install flange nuts finger tight. Then install any holding brackets finger tight only. Install mufflers and clamps finger tight. Starting at front cylinder, torque top flange nut to spec, then lower flange nut, then repeat for the rear cylinder. Then torque the holding brackets. Finally, torque the muffler clamps and any heat shields.
I prefer to put the mufflers back on after the bolts and holding brackets are mounted and torqued tight. YD
A small wire brush to the area where the gasket sits will clean things up nicely. Not sure, but some manufacturers suggest a certain type of gasket to be used for their pipes. You have a few options, the stock taper mesh gaskets, the flat "racing" mesh gasket, or even the copper style like you had on there. Depends on the pipe and what the manufacturer of the pipe wants.
The exhaust flange nut torque value is 60 INCH lbs.
According to the manual, fit the head pipes in place and install flange nuts finger tight. Then install any holding brackets finger tight only. Install mufflers and clamps finger tight. Starting at front cylinder, torque top flange nut to spec, then lower flange nut, then repeat for the rear cylinder. Then torque the holding brackets. Finally, torque the muffler clamps and any heat shields.
I prefer to put the mufflers back on after the bolts and holding brackets are mounted and torqued tight. YD
Gaskets today and this evening it goes on.
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 307
Likes: 108
Agree with torquing heads first etc. Goal is not to preload any part of the exhaust.
My Road Rage fit flawlessly dropping right into the exhaust ports. Best general install sequence is offer the front pipe to the port then swing the rear pipe into place.
I anti-seize ALL exhaust hardware and nearly all other threads which don't get Loctite. (Dry threads corrode and seize. Anti-seize and Loctite are barriers.) Done that more than thirty years on all my vehicles (which are frequently left outdoors in all weathers) and never ruined any hardware so treated. Loctite is basically acrylic plastic and would melt on exhaust flange use.
My Road Rage fit flawlessly dropping right into the exhaust ports. Best general install sequence is offer the front pipe to the port then swing the rear pipe into place.
I anti-seize ALL exhaust hardware and nearly all other threads which don't get Loctite. (Dry threads corrode and seize. Anti-seize and Loctite are barriers.) Done that more than thirty years on all my vehicles (which are frequently left outdoors in all weathers) and never ruined any hardware so treated. Loctite is basically acrylic plastic and would melt on exhaust flange use.
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 781
Likes: 35
From: St Louis
Good point.
Funny you should mention the die. I ran out and got one last night and this morning fixed up the worst of the threads. That stud looked really bad and I thought I was going to have to dremel the end off it. It's pretty good now and a nut threads on all the way no prob.
Gaskets today and this evening it goes on.
Funny you should mention the die. I ran out and got one last night and this morning fixed up the worst of the threads. That stud looked really bad and I thought I was going to have to dremel the end off it. It's pretty good now and a nut threads on all the way no prob.
Gaskets today and this evening it goes on.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 67
Likes: 1
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Installing it now, the ports aren't lining up too well. I put the front in first. This is going to be a pain.
Edit: Trying it without the front clamp on the studs first...
Edit: Trying it without the front clamp on the studs first...
Last edited by RubberToe; May 19, 2016 at 06:48 PM.