Unsolvable no spark problem
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 32
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From: az
Unsolvable no spark problem
I posted on this a couple of weeks ago, and had some excellent feedback, however I am still banging my head on the wall. 1984 FXRDG, 20K miles, very nice shape. It ran when I brought is home, all I did was take off front fender and tank to buff. Touched NOTHING else. So I put the tin back on...no spark. So I got a replacement module (used) a new sensor plate, new ignition switch, and a new coil. Put it all on today, no spark. Battery is completely charged when I crank it. I did notice that with the kill/stop switch, the motor will turn over in either position, which I do not think is correct; I disassembled switch today, short white wire is hooked up, I squirted it with contact cleaner, no change, so I have a new one coming.
One thing I did try was to take two white wires off of coil, put voltmeter on them, ignition on, kill switch in the 'run' position, I have 12V at white/red wire, but not white/green wire. Turn (kill) switch off, no voltage at either one, but motor will still turn over, weird.
So tomorrow Ill get the meter out and test the coil/module/sensor plate again. Yikes. If anyone can think of anything I might be missing, I would surely welcome the input. We have been having unusually cool weather for this time of year in the Tucson area, and this is making me crazy!
I want to ride!
One thing I did try was to take two white wires off of coil, put voltmeter on them, ignition on, kill switch in the 'run' position, I have 12V at white/red wire, but not white/green wire. Turn (kill) switch off, no voltage at either one, but motor will still turn over, weird.
So tomorrow Ill get the meter out and test the coil/module/sensor plate again. Yikes. If anyone can think of anything I might be missing, I would surely welcome the input. We have been having unusually cool weather for this time of year in the Tucson area, and this is making me crazy!
I want to ride!
Last edited by Skiprrrdog; May 18, 2016 at 08:19 PM.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
Take the tank back off to make sure you didn't pinch a wire or knock one loose when you messed with it before.
Are you using dielectric grease on your electrical connections?
Could you have put in too much?
Just a couple of thoughts.
Are you using dielectric grease on your electrical connections?
Could you have put in too much?
Just a couple of thoughts.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,092
Likes: 7,614
From: Poolville
With only 2 wires to the coil, it would be a dual fire. If you have power to the coil then the grounding circuit from the coil through the ignition module is open. You will need a schematic to chase that wire from the coil to the module and then from the module to ground. Or the signal wire from the pickup to the module is open. Not sending the signal from the pick up to the module.... to fire the coil.... Get an OHM meter and start tracing. I agree with others in that you must have disturbed a wire some where. As for the kill switch either some jumped it out or the switch will not open, again an OHM meter will help to diagnose that.... A schematic is necessary though.... hope this helps...
Novice
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 19
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From: CT
When i got my softail it ran for alittle then i had weak/no spark it would barely run, sometimes not at all. Replaced everything, had no luck till i bought a new battery for the hell of it. The old battery would turn it over fine and had a charge but something was wrong with it because i put a new yuasa in it and it immediatly ran great and still does a year and a half later. Food for thought
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: SE Louisiana
Your tearing everything down, testing everything under the sun, and parts swapping ,costing you $$$$
you skipped step one, or at least never posted the results.
did you supply 12v to the coil and module with a jumper wire?
my post from you other thread you ignored
"Take a jumper wire and connect from battery (+) to the coil (+) power supply terminal"
You wrote,
"One thing I did try was to take two white wires off of coil, put voltmeter on them, ignition on, kill switch in the 'run' position, I have 12V at white/red wire, but not white/green wire. Turn (kill) switch off, no voltage at either one, but motor will still turn over, weird.
So tomorrow Ill get the meter out and test the coil/module/sensor plate again."
The two white wires on the coil (+) terminal, one is from the stop switch,and supplies power to the ignition system, and the other on that same terminal supplies power to the module, so yea, if you remove both, only one should show 12v, and is switched with the stop switch.
Something is wired wrong, because it should not turn over with the stop switch off, but I doubt that's related to your ignition problem.
You could be showing 12v to the white wires, but hardly any amperage.
Try this to eliminate any wiring problems ahead of the white/red wire.
Disconnect the white/red, connect the white/green and a jumper wire back on that terminal, connect the other end of the jumper to the battery(+), see if it has spark.
you skipped step one, or at least never posted the results.
did you supply 12v to the coil and module with a jumper wire?
my post from you other thread you ignored
"Take a jumper wire and connect from battery (+) to the coil (+) power supply terminal"
You wrote,
"One thing I did try was to take two white wires off of coil, put voltmeter on them, ignition on, kill switch in the 'run' position, I have 12V at white/red wire, but not white/green wire. Turn (kill) switch off, no voltage at either one, but motor will still turn over, weird.
So tomorrow Ill get the meter out and test the coil/module/sensor plate again."
The two white wires on the coil (+) terminal, one is from the stop switch,and supplies power to the ignition system, and the other on that same terminal supplies power to the module, so yea, if you remove both, only one should show 12v, and is switched with the stop switch.
Something is wired wrong, because it should not turn over with the stop switch off, but I doubt that's related to your ignition problem.
You could be showing 12v to the white wires, but hardly any amperage.
Try this to eliminate any wiring problems ahead of the white/red wire.
Disconnect the white/red, connect the white/green and a jumper wire back on that terminal, connect the other end of the jumper to the battery(+), see if it has spark.
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From: SE Louisiana
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Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 32
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From: az
--Prot... New ignition switch, but it did not even *occur* to me to try swapping the coil wires...D'OH! Will try that tomorrow
--texashillcountry...I took the tank off again, even sliced the loom open so I could look at the wires, not seeing anything there
--98hotrodfatboy... I am using the schematic in my H-D FSM... discovered today kill switch is definitely bad, going to swap it out tomorrow... dont know if that is the problem, but it is a problem!
--j440... I thought of that, battery cranks fine, but if I still have problem after I put in new kill switch, I might take the battery in and have it tested.
--Schex3x... yes, I did run a jumper directly to battery, did not change anything. Going to install new kill switch tomorrow; besides the kill function being compromised, I also have resistance on two wires (gray and black) where I have infinity on same connections on new switch. I went over the grounds already, removed all of them, made sure I had sanded/bare/dry metal, and put them back together.
--Used because I did not want to spend big bucks on a new one; eBay seller said it was good, if not I have 30 days to send it back.
--texashillcountry...I took the tank off again, even sliced the loom open so I could look at the wires, not seeing anything there
--98hotrodfatboy... I am using the schematic in my H-D FSM... discovered today kill switch is definitely bad, going to swap it out tomorrow... dont know if that is the problem, but it is a problem!
--j440... I thought of that, battery cranks fine, but if I still have problem after I put in new kill switch, I might take the battery in and have it tested.
--Schex3x... yes, I did run a jumper directly to battery, did not change anything. Going to install new kill switch tomorrow; besides the kill function being compromised, I also have resistance on two wires (gray and black) where I have infinity on same connections on new switch. I went over the grounds already, removed all of them, made sure I had sanded/bare/dry metal, and put them back together.
--Used because I did not want to spend big bucks on a new one; eBay seller said it was good, if not I have 30 days to send it back.
