Fatboy won't start. Clicking sound.
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Straight Jacket Memories and Sedative Highs
But still comes back to is battery or charging.
His battery is new. But some guy sure fo through batteries, maybe hot climate, don't ride them, or cheap. I get 9 years, and don't use tenders. My neighbor buys odd ball batteries and swears you need to replace every year.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,406
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From: Straight Jacket Memories and Sedative Highs
Not for TCs.
20 Volts per 1000 rpms, is ballpark, more for 45 amp little less for 38 amp alternators.
Just looked in my 01 electric manual. Which is still single phase.
Somebody needs to chime in with an Evo. I could be wrong, since I have TCs, but I doubt it.
20 Volts per 1000 rpms, is ballpark, more for 45 amp little less for 38 amp alternators.
Just looked in my 01 electric manual. Which is still single phase.
Somebody needs to chime in with an Evo. I could be wrong, since I have TCs, but I doubt it.
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Straight Jacket Memories and Sedative Highs
No.
EVO Charging
The first thing to check if you suspect a charging problem is the battery and the wires attached to it. If the wires are loose, make sure to tighten them up. If you see any corrosion, disconnect them and clean them off with a wire brush before re-attaching. Check each cell on the motorcycle battery to make sure the electrolyte is covering the plates, if not, carefully add distilled water until the fluid reaches the "top" line on the side of the battery. If your battery is less than fully charged, use a low amperage charger (1 to 3 amps) and charge it until the indicator says it's full. If it doesn't take a full charge, replace it with a new one.
When your wires are clean and secure and the battery fully charged, you can get started checking the system. Perform the following checks:
Battery: Turn ohmeter to the DC Volts setting that can read 12V or more. With your motorcycle off, read from Positive to Negative making sure the Red is +, Black is -- If battery is good you should get about 12.5 to 13.5 volts
Charging: Using same multimeter range, start the motorcycle and run RPM's up to above idle.Voltage should increase to several volts above initial reading, usually to about 14.7 V Voltage should not go much higher than 14.7 V. If voltage goes alot higher when you rev the engine, you could be overcharging due to a voltage reg problem. If voltage doesn't change, your motorcycle is not charging.
Stator: If your motorcycle is not charging, you need to check the stator. Locate the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. Switch the multimeter to OHMS range on the lowest setting, usually 10 ohms. With the motorcycle off, read between the 2 pins or holes in the block. These should show continuity. If your meter is accurate you could read 1 to 3 ohms, but cheaper meters will not be that accurate. As long there is continuity it passes this test.
Now change the setting on the multimeter to the highest OHM range like 100K. Touch one probe to a pin or hole in the engine, the other to the engine case or a metal bolt on the engine. The meter should not move. Try the other pin the same way and it also shouldn't move. If you get any reading the stator is shorted and must be replaced. This requires special tools and you should consider taking it to a shop. If you get no movement on the meter, it's not shorted out so you need to check for output.
To check for output, change multimeter to AC Volts setting over 100 Volts. With the alternator plug disconnected, start the bike. Use the probes (not polarity sensitive) to read between the pins or holes in the engine block. You should read about 20V per 1000 rpm's. At idle expect about 25V, as you rev the engine it will increase to 60 or 70 Volts. If it does your stator is OK, if you get no output the stator is bad and you will need to replace it or take it to a shop.
Voltage Regulator: If your stator is not shorted to ground and has the proper output, your regulator is most likely the culprit. If your stator checks out OK but battery voltage doesn't increase when the motorcycle is running, the regulator isn't doing it's job and needs to be replaced. It's an easy swap, just make sure you bring the old one with you to make sure they give you the correct unit. If the battery voltage goes too high when you rev the motorcycle the regulator isn't limiting the voltage and again it needs replacement
The first thing to check if you suspect a charging problem is the battery and the wires attached to it. If the wires are loose, make sure to tighten them up. If you see any corrosion, disconnect them and clean them off with a wire brush before re-attaching. Check each cell on the motorcycle battery to make sure the electrolyte is covering the plates, if not, carefully add distilled water until the fluid reaches the "top" line on the side of the battery. If your battery is less than fully charged, use a low amperage charger (1 to 3 amps) and charge it until the indicator says it's full. If it doesn't take a full charge, replace it with a new one.
When your wires are clean and secure and the battery fully charged, you can get started checking the system. Perform the following checks:
Battery: Turn ohmeter to the DC Volts setting that can read 12V or more. With your motorcycle off, read from Positive to Negative making sure the Red is +, Black is -- If battery is good you should get about 12.5 to 13.5 volts
Charging: Using same multimeter range, start the motorcycle and run RPM's up to above idle.Voltage should increase to several volts above initial reading, usually to about 14.7 V Voltage should not go much higher than 14.7 V. If voltage goes alot higher when you rev the engine, you could be overcharging due to a voltage reg problem. If voltage doesn't change, your motorcycle is not charging.
Stator: If your motorcycle is not charging, you need to check the stator. Locate the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. Switch the multimeter to OHMS range on the lowest setting, usually 10 ohms. With the motorcycle off, read between the 2 pins or holes in the block. These should show continuity. If your meter is accurate you could read 1 to 3 ohms, but cheaper meters will not be that accurate. As long there is continuity it passes this test.
Now change the setting on the multimeter to the highest OHM range like 100K. Touch one probe to a pin or hole in the engine, the other to the engine case or a metal bolt on the engine. The meter should not move. Try the other pin the same way and it also shouldn't move. If you get any reading the stator is shorted and must be replaced. This requires special tools and you should consider taking it to a shop. If you get no movement on the meter, it's not shorted out so you need to check for output.
To check for output, change multimeter to AC Volts setting over 100 Volts. With the alternator plug disconnected, start the bike. Use the probes (not polarity sensitive) to read between the pins or holes in the engine block. You should read about 20V per 1000 rpm's. At idle expect about 25V, as you rev the engine it will increase to 60 or 70 Volts. If it does your stator is OK, if you get no output the stator is bad and you will need to replace it or take it to a shop.
Voltage Regulator: If your stator is not shorted to ground and has the proper output, your regulator is most likely the culprit. If your stator checks out OK but battery voltage doesn't increase when the motorcycle is running, the regulator isn't doing it's job and needs to be replaced. It's an easy swap, just make sure you bring the old one with you to make sure they give you the correct unit. If the battery voltage goes too high when you rev the motorcycle the regulator isn't limiting the voltage and again it needs replacement
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...RPM+harley+evo
Banned
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Straight Jacket Memories and Sedative Highs
You can ohm stator leads and check resistance. I don't know specs. If memory serves there should a value between leads and infinite each lead to ground. Or the other way, I forget. But I think the first one.
Time to think about getting a new belt while you are that far. Primary bearing? Cheap, I would do it.
It is a bit of an undertaking time wise, so go over everything good, make sure something is not missing.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
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Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
I have had new batteries that were bad off the shelf.
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 135
Likes: 1
Double check the ground wire from the starter to the frame. I had a similar issue on a 99 Sportster that was an intermittent but recurring problem. Everything would test great and the bike would run perfect...and then unexpectedly, I'd go to start it and all I would get is a clicking sound. It just about drove me to drink
It turns out the terminal of the ground wire was very rusted and just about making contact with the ground wire itself. Due to its location, it wasn't particularly accessible or easy to inspect. The slighest bump or vibration would cause the connection to be broken or greatly weakened.
It turns out the terminal of the ground wire was very rusted and just about making contact with the ground wire itself. Due to its location, it wasn't particularly accessible or easy to inspect. The slighest bump or vibration would cause the connection to be broken or greatly weakened.
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Banned
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,406
Likes: 833
From: Straight Jacket Memories and Sedative Highs
But he said he got 20 volts AC when revving bike. So that says he is not charging.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
Hey rainsong take off the derby cover and give the primary a sniff.
Do you smell anything?? A strong burnt smell indicates your stator is done.
I have a 27v 3 phase Cycle Electric system for a EVO softail new in the box that I bought and never used.
PM if you're interested.
