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I'm with the don't go overboard crowd. My bike is 23 years old, I've owned it since new, and I'm also now in the don't fix it until it's broke (or about to break) group. Assuming you aren't doing any of the work, and labor isn't sky high expensive, then I would think you could freshen up (and mildly modify) your 89 for $2-3k. All depending on a bunch of unknowns.
On your TourGlide, a mildly modified engine will make you smile.
Pistons... At 35k, you most likely don't need to bore, so your stock pistons should be fine. When the heads are off look at the condition of the cylinder walls. And then they may only need a light hone and re-ring. Unless you want to bump up the CR some. EVO's had anemic CR's. Something like 8.5-8.7:1. I still wouldn't go above 10:1.
Heads... A good head man can have stock EVO heads flowing great. Get a good multi angle valve job. I had mine 'street ported'. Added a bit of HP, but lost a bit of TQ. Nothing noticeable, unless you compared the dyno sheets.
Cam... Get a good aftermarket cam that suits your riding style. There are many 'bolt in' cams that will make your HD run like it should have run from the factory. Definitely swap out the cam bearing.
Lifters... Mine lasted 59k. Still looked good when I had them replace over the winter. And that's with running an Andrews EV27 cam for almost 50k of those miles.
Upgrade the stock ignition. Dyna makes a good one for the EVO, but there are others.
Carb (carb selection has become the new oil/cam debate...)... I'd just stick with the stock CV. Perhaps upgrade to a later version of it. They can be found used for a heck of a lot less than a new S&S or Mikuni. Get it tuned to the bike after the mods.
Exhaust... EVO's seem to like 2:1 systems, but a good set of slip-on muffers off the stock head pipes will help get the bad air out.
Air Cleaner... Free flowing. The EPA really choked these bikes. Get a Screaming Eagle or other and get that EVO breathing.
Yup got the carb and ignition done already. I need to replace all the gaskets...figured I'd do what I can while its apart.
Maybe I'll just hone and ring it and cam.
Yup got the carb and ignition done already. I need to replace all the gaskets...figured I'd do what I can while its apart. Maybe I'll just hone and ring it and cam.
That is really your best option because after stage two hp starts getting really expensive!!!!
If the cylinders are removed, have your machinist true the bottoms, this will pretty much eliminate the base gasket leaks from returning.
I`m in agreement with Hackd as far as don`t fix it unless it is broke...
But the lifters are an old design that was upgraded due to roller failures, so you ought to get them changed, your cam bearing is fine, the bike came with a Torrington B-138.
...your cam bearing is fine, the bike came with a Torrington B-138.
Yeah, but if he swaps out for a better cam, I'd still recommend putting a new bearing in. Although, his stock '89 cam has a better profile than my '93 did.
Yup got the carb and ignition done already. I need to replace all the gaskets...figured I'd do what I can while its apart.
Maybe I'll just hone and ring it and cam.
Here's comes the pain! What cam? Lol. Super e. Crane ign. Everything else stock. Just want more overall. I supposed alittle extra on the bottom for when I have a passenger.
Here's comes the pain! What cam? Lol. Super e. Crane ign. Everything else stock. Just want more overall. I supposed alittle extra on the bottom for when I have a passenger.
Personal opinion here, but from your statement, I think you will be happy with an Andrews EV13 (drop-in). It's great for heavier bikes, especially riding two up. I recently put this in my 89 FLHTC and am very happy. BTW, the cam in your 89 is an L-cam, so it's one of the better Evo cams. You will feel the difference with EV13, especially more bottom end torque.
Cam, adjustable PRs, lifters will be anywhere $300-$400, but you have to internet shop.
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