IDing a leak
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 9,324
Likes: 3,869
From: Upstate New York
Thanks all! I think for sure that's where my leakis, I'm not doing the job twice so I'm going to go ahead and replace the blocks themselves, plus I want to replace those cheasy chrome covers.
Are the JP Cycles blocks good? http://www.jpcycles.com/product/4300366
I have solid pushrods and I'm not pulling the rocker boxes, so I need new pushrods. Looking at the JP Rods and the S&S rods, any preference here? I see the later model engines come as kits with new orings, covers, ect... but these don't. Is there a kit that has all the orings and covers for the easy install pushrods?
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/432-668
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/420-308
Are the JP Cycles blocks good? http://www.jpcycles.com/product/4300366
I have solid pushrods and I'm not pulling the rocker boxes, so I need new pushrods. Looking at the JP Rods and the S&S rods, any preference here? I see the later model engines come as kits with new orings, covers, ect... but these don't. Is there a kit that has all the orings and covers for the easy install pushrods?
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/432-668
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/420-308
I'm still running my original lifter blocks at 115,000 miles, but, hey it's your money. I WOULD change my lifters if they've been in there for a while, say 40K. You needn't change the pushrod tubes, and there are kits of the 12 (4 each of 3 sizes) O-rings you will need.
I use no tools to snap off the tube cover retaining clips. I just push down on the spring loaded center cap and pry off the retainer with my fingers.
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Tourer
Joined: May 2010
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That is overkill but since you are replacing the lifter blocks (unnecessary IMO) can I have your old ones?
Why do you want new covers??
Are the old ones cracked??
When going with adjustable pushrods I prefer S&S as they are thicker and stronger than most others.
Get Cometic AFM gaskets for your lifter blocks.
They just work better IMO.
Why do you want new covers??
Are the old ones cracked??
When going with adjustable pushrods I prefer S&S as they are thicker and stronger than most others.
Get Cometic AFM gaskets for your lifter blocks.
They just work better IMO.
Also, the top of the blocks seem pretty dry, but it's hard looking around all the glue that was holding the covers on. It's mainly the base of the blocks and a little up that is oily.
I'm still running my original lifter blocks at 115,000 miles, but, hey it's your money. I WOULD change my lifters if they've been in there for a while, say 40K. You needn't change the pushrod tubes, and there are kits of the 12 (4 each of 3 sizes) O-rings you will need.
I use no tools to snap off the tube cover retaining clips. I just push down on the spring loaded center cap and pry off the retainer with my fingers.
I use no tools to snap off the tube cover retaining clips. I just push down on the spring loaded center cap and pry off the retainer with my fingers.
Last edited by Panthers65; Aug 11, 2016 at 12:44 PM.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,062
Likes: 4,547
From: Haslet Texas
I got a few more pictures after I cleaned everything up and removed the covers. In front of the front block between the oil filter and the engine is clean, between the two blocks is nasty, and after the rear block between the engine and trans is wet. the towers are dry.
Also, the top of the blocks seem pretty dry, but it's hard looking around all the glue that was holding the covers on. It's mainly the base of the blocks and a little up that is oily.
I finally managed to get one off last night, pretty stiff/stuck. They are also pretty tarnished so if I can't clean them up, I'll need new covers. I watched the video S&S put out on their pushrods, they said the factory covers won't work because they don't go up high enough to access where you adjust the rods, this is why I was mainly asking about the covers.
Also, the top of the blocks seem pretty dry, but it's hard looking around all the glue that was holding the covers on. It's mainly the base of the blocks and a little up that is oily.
I finally managed to get one off last night, pretty stiff/stuck. They are also pretty tarnished so if I can't clean them up, I'll need new covers. I watched the video S&S put out on their pushrods, they said the factory covers won't work because they don't go up high enough to access where you adjust the rods, this is why I was mainly asking about the covers.
If you had to remove the pushrods to get the covers off then you might as well change all the o-rings, gaskets, and what the hell since you are there change the lifters, cam and cam bearing as well.
If you didn't have to remove the pushrods you can still clean the motor and find your leak.
Have you checked the lifter block bolts for tension?
In other words are any of them loose?
If I were you I'd leave the covers off as they make finding and fixing a problem that much harder.
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Tourer
Joined: May 2010
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From what I can gather you have already cut out the pushrods or could you remove the covers while leaving the pushrods in place?
If you had to remove the pushrods to get the covers off then you might as well change all the o-rings, gaskets, and what the hell since you are there change the lifters, cam and cam bearing as well.
If you didn't have to remove the pushrods you can still clean the motor and find your leak.
Have you checked the lifter block bolts for tension?
In other words are any of them loose?
If I were you I'd leave the covers off as they make finding and fixing a problem that much harder.
If you had to remove the pushrods to get the covers off then you might as well change all the o-rings, gaskets, and what the hell since you are there change the lifters, cam and cam bearing as well.
If you didn't have to remove the pushrods you can still clean the motor and find your leak.
Have you checked the lifter block bolts for tension?
In other words are any of them loose?
If I were you I'd leave the covers off as they make finding and fixing a problem that much harder.
Nope, only things that I have removed are the block covers that made the blocks look chrome, and I pulled one of the pushrod covers to confirm they were solid pushrods (I haven't touched them before, was hoping the PO had done some work in there before me)
The covers had a gap in the back that let me remove them without removing the pushrods.
I'd like to do all that, but $300-ish for blocks and pushrods is a bit easier to swallow than $750 for blocks, pushrods, tappets, cam, and cam bearing. It's on the list to do, but I'm about to be out of the country for 10 days and funds will be tight when I get home. If I've gotta wait a few months before I can do the Cam and lifters, I don't want the bike out of commission until them. The leak is bad enough now that I don't ride as much as I normally would since I don't want to drip oil all over friends and families' driveways.
Just went down and checked the bolts, they are all good and tight. Sprayed some more degreaser around the area and rinsed it off. I'll run it again this evening without actually riding it and see where the oil developes.
If I have to replace the blocks the covers definitely won't go back on. We'll see how it looks when everything is back together, but I'm not a big fan of the covers as is.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,062
Likes: 4,547
From: Haslet Texas
Nope, only things that I have removed are the block covers that made the blocks look chrome, and I pulled one of the pushrod covers to confirm they were solid pushrods (I haven't touched them before, was hoping the PO had done some work in there before me)
The covers had a gap in the back that let me remove them without removing the pushrods.
I'd like to do all that, but $300-ish for blocks and pushrods is a bit easier to swallow than $750 for blocks, pushrods, tappets, cam, and cam bearing. It's on the list to do, but I'm about to be out of the country for 10 days and funds will be tight when I get home. If I've gotta wait a few months before I can do the Cam and lifters, I don't want the bike out of commission until them. The leak is bad enough now that I don't ride as much as I normally would since I don't want to drip oil all over friends and families' driveways.
Just went down and checked the bolts, they are all good and tight. Sprayed some more degreaser around the area and rinsed it off. I'll run it again this evening without actually riding it and see where the oil developes.
If I have to replace the blocks the covers definitely won't go back on. We'll see how it looks when everything is back together, but I'm not a big fan of the covers as is.
The covers had a gap in the back that let me remove them without removing the pushrods.
I'd like to do all that, but $300-ish for blocks and pushrods is a bit easier to swallow than $750 for blocks, pushrods, tappets, cam, and cam bearing. It's on the list to do, but I'm about to be out of the country for 10 days and funds will be tight when I get home. If I've gotta wait a few months before I can do the Cam and lifters, I don't want the bike out of commission until them. The leak is bad enough now that I don't ride as much as I normally would since I don't want to drip oil all over friends and families' driveways.
Just went down and checked the bolts, they are all good and tight. Sprayed some more degreaser around the area and rinsed it off. I'll run it again this evening without actually riding it and see where the oil developes.
If I have to replace the blocks the covers definitely won't go back on. We'll see how it looks when everything is back together, but I'm not a big fan of the covers as is.
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