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Front fork leak FLSTC

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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 06:21 PM
  #1  
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Default Front fork leak FLSTC

Hi, Dang it, my right front fork is dripping oil from bolt at bottom of fork.
Assume I need to replace fork seals?


No oil on entire length of fork, just on bottom bolt, the left (rear) one.
Very slow leak, a fifth of a teaspoon puddled on rim after 2 weeks sitting.
Clean golden oil I replaced a few hundred miles ago, see & touch on bolt.
Both bolts were already tight; I didn't touch them when I changed oil.
No leak around fork oil drain screw.
Indie quoted $360 labor, $40 parts. Will do myself if needed.


Softail Heritage FLSTC 1999, 42,000 miles, still pretty.
Thanks! Kayakeur Bud
 
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 06:29 PM
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From: Haslet Texas
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Originally Posted by Kayakeur
Hi, Dang it, my right front fork is dripping oil from bolt at bottom of fork.
Assume I need to replace fork seals?


No oil on entire length of fork, just on bottom bolt, the left (rear) one.
Very slow leak, a fifth of a teaspoon puddled on rim after 2 weeks sitting.
Clean golden oil I replaced a few hundred miles ago, see & touch on bolt.
Both bolts were already tight; I didn't touch them when I changed oil.
No leak around fork oil drain screw.
Indie quoted $360 labor, $40 parts. Will do myself if needed.


Softail Heritage FLSTC 1999, 42,000 miles, still pretty.
Thanks! Kayakeur Bud
No need to replace the fork seals in your case.

Personally I'd just try tightening up the bolt first.
If that doesn't work just take out the bolt and change the crush washer and reinstall the bolt.
You will need an impact to remove the bolt.
Not to mention that you will have to take out the fork spring before removing the bolt as well.
It's a 6mm allen head bolt.
You don't need a long shank 6mm allen to reach that bolt but you will if you ever have to tackle the one on the left.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 07:08 PM
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Nevrmind. I reread your post. Follow THC advise.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
Not to mention that you will have to take out the fork spring before removing the bolt as well.

And why do you need to remove the spring?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Hey Man
And why do you need to remove the spring?
To take the pressure off so that you can get the bolt back in.
A little pressure is good as it holds the damper in place but with full spring pressure you won't be able to compress the fork enough to install the bolt.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 09:48 PM
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Guys, I think I mis-stated the problem, the location of problem.
photos below

Leak oil dripping from
Actually not from bolts but a pair of nuts at the bottom of the front fork/shock.

There is no oil drip path down the length of the fork, no oil collected along lower rim of wider-diameter cover (I guess #44, p/n 45964-86 ).
No oil seep from drain screw #29, pn 45858-77 (I changed fork oil a month ago, did not replace the copper washer)


Parts Catalog diagram pages 72, 73, 74, 75.
Nut #14 p/n 7748W
onto stud #45 p/n 45998-73
through #24 axle cap 45832-77A
into #36 slider p/n 45917-86


Tried tightening the nut but it was already on so smug it didn’t move with my best estimate of appropriate strong torque.
Tightened the drain screw teensy bit, measuring torque with the meter inside my fingers, dared not torque it more.
Bud Kayakeur
FLSTC Heritage Classic 1999, 42,000 miles
 
Attached Thumbnails Front fork leak FLSTC-front-fork-oil-leak-rt-from-stud-thru-fork-s-axle-cap-8-17-16.jpg   Front fork leak FLSTC-front-fork-oil-leak-rt-from-stud-thru-fork-s-axle-cap-view-underneath-8-17-16.jpg  
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 09:58 PM
  #7  
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From: Haslet Texas
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Originally Posted by Kayakeur
Guys, I think I mis-stated the problem, the location of problem.
photos below

Leak oil dripping from
Actually not from bolts but a pair of nuts at the bottom of the front fork/shock.

There is no oil drip path down the length of the fork, no oil collected along lower rim of wider-diameter cover (I guess #44, p/n 45964-86 ).
No oil seep from drain screw #29, pn 45858-77 (I changed fork oil a month ago, did not replace the copper washer)


Parts Catalog diagram pages 72, 73, 74, 75.
Nut #14 p/n 7748W
onto stud #45 p/n 45998-73
through #24 axle cap 45832-77A
into #36 slider p/n 45917-86


Tried tightening the nut but it was already on so smug it didn’t move with my best estimate of appropriate strong torque.
Tightened the drain screw teensy bit, measuring torque with the meter inside my fingers, dared not torque it more.
Bud Kayakeur
FLSTC Heritage Classic 1999, 42,000 miles
No you explained it right I guess my fix wasn't as clear as possible.

You have to take the axle off to get at the bolts I am talking about.
It's part number 17 on the exploded diagram for the '99 Heritage.
 
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