complete primary change - to what?
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 517
Likes: 6
From: Ottawa, ON
complete primary change - to what?
Gentlemen!
It's time to change pretty much the whole primary on my Heritage....
why? The chain is stretched, both sprockets are clearly too worn, lower cover bolt is stripped ( so only two are holding - sweating pretty badly over there) and the sandwich itself has been there since 94, got over 200 k miles on it ( and I don't like the mid- generation diaphragm much).
So it's pretty much everything except the casing itself....
this being said, what are good options besides just stock?
enclosed belt w dry clutch? I know, there are tons of threads on belt vs clutch, but reading many of them still didn't really help.
Any ideas, opinions, experiences?
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
If it were me I'd just go back to OEM and worry about it in another 100k km.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 17
From: Rosamond, Cali
I have looked at an enclosed belt for mine with vented cover(s), dry clutch. BDL makes one for less than 600 bucks that includes the works. Rivera Primo (my choice) has one for not much more than that. The covers are another $150 to $200 or so, depending upon how ornate you want to get. I have even heard of spacing out the outer primary cover to allow an airspace between it and the inner cover. You don't have to spend much on the cover if you're able and willing to modify what you've got. The idea is to get good airflow to the belt space to keep the belt from burning up. I don't think it actually burns up, just the heat messes it up and it'll fray and/or break.
The problems I've heard related to internal belt drive are, if the engine case leaks (or the tranny), it could foul the belt with oil. Heat. So the belt needs to be well-vented. And alignment between engine sprocket and clutch sprocket. You have to make sure the belt runs true from front to rear.
Is this the most practical solution? Naw. The OEM stuff, as others have said, works well enough. But if you want to get a little exotic...
Alan
The problems I've heard related to internal belt drive are, if the engine case leaks (or the tranny), it could foul the belt with oil. Heat. So the belt needs to be well-vented. And alignment between engine sprocket and clutch sprocket. You have to make sure the belt runs true from front to rear.
Is this the most practical solution? Naw. The OEM stuff, as others have said, works well enough. But if you want to get a little exotic...
Alan
Last edited by AlanStansbery; Sep 22, 2016 at 07:31 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
A further consideration with an internal belt is that I believe they are only available in higher than stock gear ratios, so the ride will be changed. 200k km is 124k miles, so with that reliability I'm inclined to agree with the others - replace with stock, or close to stock.
A set of Barnett kevlar clutch plates would be a good alternative to stock along with a new clutch spring. Also take a close look at the pressure plate as I found that mine was breaking up, at a much lower mileage, which was a bit alarming to discover.
A set of Barnett kevlar clutch plates would be a good alternative to stock along with a new clutch spring. Also take a close look at the pressure plate as I found that mine was breaking up, at a much lower mileage, which was a bit alarming to discover.
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From: Lafayette, Louisiana
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Joe Kucinski
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,117
Likes: 7,643
From: Poolville
Yes Baker does make a SBD primary drive. You can Find them for around $2400. They're set up will put the primary drive ratio to a 1.54:1. Note that with a belt drive you will not have the luxury of a compensator which will make acceleration and deceleration a bit choppy.
As for the enclosed primary belt drives, they need venting because as the pulley and clutch basket heat up they will expand creating a tighter belt. So less heat less expansion which translates to less side torque on the inner primary bearings..
Also the BDL and Rivera are cheaper because they use all aluminum pulley's which will wear a lot quicker requiring replacement due to the Kevlar belt..
As for the enclosed primary belt drives, they need venting because as the pulley and clutch basket heat up they will expand creating a tighter belt. So less heat less expansion which translates to less side torque on the inner primary bearings..
Also the BDL and Rivera are cheaper because they use all aluminum pulley's which will wear a lot quicker requiring replacement due to the Kevlar belt..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Sep 23, 2016 at 06:16 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,733
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From: Snow Hill, NC
I just put a new Barnett Kevlar and regular spring in my 07 at 92000 miles and it grabs so good. As far as the rest I would go with OEM , new seals and gaskets and roll on fellow Canuck.
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