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1990 FLHTC trunk removal

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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 02:20 PM
  #1  
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Default 1990 FLHTC trunk removal

I've got a 1990 FLHTC that I want to take the trunk off of. I'm not sure what size spacers I will need to use where the trunk was connected to the rear shocks. Does anyone know? Also, is there a license plate loop that I can use instead of what was originally on the bike?
 
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 04:07 PM
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There are two answers to your question. You can take your tourpak off and leave the carrier frame in place, which is what I do. That solves the license plate problem! I installed a qd socket in the base, the matching plug on the wiring harness, so I can swap back and forth in a blink.

For complete removal using a detachable rack we have a thread or two on doing that, which probably includes sorting out those spacers. Hopefully someone will pop by soon with that info! That will enable you to refit the rack/tourpak about as quickly as my approach - perhaps slightly quicker.

Taking the whole thing off predates our bikes, so there aren't precise parts for doing that, we have to use a little imagination and enginuity.
 

Last edited by grbrown; Nov 22, 2016 at 04:12 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2016 | 09:00 AM
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I cut the spacer off of the rack itself on my '87. I also put the rear quick detach for 97-08 on it so I could put the pack back on for OL. The rear mounts work for the tour pak but the front mount for just a backrest won't work unless you space the saddlebags out further. I wasn't worried about backrest so I didn't try that so I don't know for sure about that. I used a sportster plate mount to put the plate above the tail light, but on my '13 I made a mount that used the turn signal bar mounts and put an led strip light under the bar to light the plate and got a street glide taillight without the plate window. I don't have any pictures of the spacer you can see the qd works.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 08:37 AM
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Would be .385/.415 thick.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2016 | 07:56 AM
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Couple of thoughts on removing the tourpack bracket:

The bracket is riveted to the frame, so be prepared to grind those off/drill them out.

The accuracy of the spacer at the shock mount isn't critical. Once you have the bracket off, just mic it up and get some stainless washers from the hardware store of equal width. No need to be super exact, but at least be close.

The biggest issue you'll encounter is that the seat bracket attaches to the tourpack bracket. If you intend to keep the stock seat, you'll need to figure something out on that.
 
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