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So I have 1998 fsxts and looking for a little more get up and go out of the old girl. It only has 6500 miles on it so don't want to open up the engine just yet. This is my first harley and I did all the make it pretty stuff last winter so it's time for the go fast parts. It's all stock except for v/h short shots. Was thinking a cam, carb and ignition? Not looking to bring it to the drag strip but just some red light to red light fun. Any suggestions? I'm used to the Japanese stuff.
Here's a before and after
Andrews EV13 or EV27 cam, Dynatek ignition module, rejet the carburetor. I almost forgot. Replace the cam bearing with a Torrington bearing when you change the cam.
You could either cut your pushrods and replaced them with adjustable ones or you could reuse your pushrods with some minor disassembly.
Normally this is a good time to replace the lifters, but at sixty five hundred miles, which is ridiculously low, there is no need to that.
If your exhaust does not have baffles, you are going to want to add baffles as open pipes are notorious for killing low rpm torque.
These mods can be done yourself if you buy a factory service manual.
Regarding cam choice, EV13 works great at all rpm but comes on stronger at the low rpm by sacrificing a little at the upper rpm. EV27 works great at all rpm but comes on stronger at the upper rpm by sacrificing a little at the lower rpm. There are other cams, but these two are the most popular.
Besides rpm, the EV13 works better on heavy bikes, riding two up, riding in mountains, and that type of thing where you need as much low rpm torque as you can get.
EV27 works better on light bikes, riding solo, high speed interstate, stuff like that where you are looking at high speed with a light load.
I always ride solo and everything is flat here and I am right at sea level. Still, I chose the EV13 for better launch at red lights and the rpm range I mostly ride at fits that cam's characteristics. I run interstates at high speed just fine.
A mistake some people make is selecting a radical cam to deliver maximum horsepower at high rpm because they are looking for dyno chart bragging rights but then in reality, their bike sucks for normal riding.
I went with the Vthunder 3010...I heard it's similar to the ev-27 an I got a smokin deal on it. night an day difference. first time I rode the bike with the new cam I hit the rev limiter, it took forever to get near the limiter with the stock cam. Best mod ever
I had an EV27 in my 98 Super Glide. I did lack a little on the bottom end but when that cam did come on, and you'll feel it come on, it would pull strong to redline
Just added EV13 to my 1998 FLHTCU. After speaking to Andrews Tech, they recommended this over the EV27, as my bike is on heavy side (as previous poster said). I went with Andrews adjustable push rods and new SS lifters (I had 40k on bike). Also replaced cam bearing. Cam bushing was fine.
I already had ignition upgrade, but would like to upgrade coil and wires. I made simple reject to Mukuni.
It's still a couch on two wheels, but power increase is quite noticeable, especially with 2 up.
It also goes without saying a free flowing air cleaner is a must because the stock one doesn't flow enough.
At first I tried a drop in K & N in the stock air box and while it helped, at upper Ron's it was like trying to breathe through a small straw while running.
I went with the screaming eagle air cleaner which uses the stock cover. It flows a lot more and still covers the air cleaner enough for rain. It looks like stock and not some goofy spike designed for jousting.
The single best improvement in overall performance would be a different cam. Asking which cam is 'best', is like asking what oil should I run... Everyone has an opinion as to what works best for them. Do a lot of research and get the cam that fits your riding style.
The tried an true methods for an EVO is to get the air in, and the exhaust out. Free flow air cleaner, and less restrictive (no necessarily loud) exhaust. The engines were really 'strangled' by the EPA. Tune the stock CV carb. If you want to spend a lot more money, get an S&S or Mikuni. But the CV will work fine for all but the biggest and baddest EVO's. Think about swapping out the stock ignition for a Dyna or other. It will change the curve, and raise the rpm limit, which will enhance the performance of that aftermarket cam.
The single best improvement in overall performance would be a different cam. Asking which cam is 'best', is like asking what oil should I run... Everyone has an opinion as to what works best for them. Do a lot of research and get the cam that fits your riding style.
The tried an true methods for an EVO is to get the air in, and the exhaust out. Free flow air cleaner, and less restrictive (no necessarily loud) exhaust. The engines were really 'strangled' by the EPA. Tune the stock CV carb. If you want to spend a lot more money, get an S&S or Mikuni. But the CV will work fine for all but the biggest and baddest EVO's. Think about swapping out the stock ignition for a Dyna or other. It will change the curve, and raise the rpm limit, which will enhance the performance of that aftermarket cam.
You got a budget in mind????
Good advice there Hackd... Also a little extra labor and you can just cleanup the heads Shave them a little, maybe $300-400 and use a .030" head gasket and the choice of cams goes way up. as well as the power range. If you can wrench it is the way to go.
Also a little extra labor and you can just cleanup the heads Shave them a little, maybe $300-400 and use a .030" head gasket and the choice of cams goes way up. as well as the power range. If you can wrench it is the way to go.
Bumping the compression ratio to 9:1 or 9.5:1 will get the horsepower up to close to or 'around' 90, with the other mods. My EVO is at ~80/80 (last dyno run) with pretty much stock CR. Stock EVO's are like 8:1. Pretty darn pathetic, but they were made to run on 87 octane (10%) ethanol fuel.
I've always run 93 octane (10% ethanol) in my EVO. Probably unnecessary, but when it only takes 5 gallons to fill it, the pain isn't as much as my with my 76 CJ5 with a Ford Racing 5.0L and 4.56 gearing (that gets around 10-12 mpg):
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