88 Softail Starter Drive Lever
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Tourer
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 295
Likes: 26
From: Western CT
88 Softail Starter Drive Lever
I've been having an issue with what I thought was a sticky solenoid. I'd tap it when it clicked with a fiber mallet and the engine would crank. This issue started after I removed the primaries for seal and mainshaft race replacements. Upon pulling the outer primary tonight I noticed the solenoid starter drive lever not pulling with the top and bottom fingers. The bottom finger will move the drive gear, but the top finger is independent. It's loose on the shaft. I have two questions for ya'll. After removing the starter shaft, I can move the solenoid plunger manually and the bottom finger will move and the upper just free-floats on the shaft. First, should the starter drive lever allow the upper finger to move independently? Second, What's the best way to remove the drive lever? Do you remove the plug\screw or rod from the top and if so how did you get it out, or can the drive lever be removed from inside the inner primary?
Here's the pic of the Starter drive lever in question.
Clicky:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/6000450
Here's the pic of the Starter drive lever in question.
Clicky:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/6000450
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
I've never handled one of these things, so am simply offering my thoughts, based on those drawings. It looks to me that when installed the ends of both fingers, straight and curved, should enage with the groove in item #Q. That being so, if the curved finger can move independently of the straight one when in your hand, so to speak, that shouldn't affect the functioning of the lever - assuming that movement is intended. With the starter shaft installed, along with everything else, the two fingers should only be able to move together, lengthwise relative to the shaft.
In any event, you have an electrical malfunction, which is preventing the starter from operating correctly. Don't get distracted! Take a look at D1gger's Sticky on second relays above.
In any event, you have an electrical malfunction, which is preventing the starter from operating correctly. Don't get distracted! Take a look at D1gger's Sticky on second relays above.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,007
Likes: 353
From: Ohio
Did you disassemble and clean up the plunger parts in the solenoid? That plunger gets gunked up a lot and can eventually jam. Also check the cable connections for good contact. From what I remember when I last did work on mine, last year, those fingers on the shifter lever are a loose fit anyway. I don't believe mine were different than yours. It's a screwy deal but it does work.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 2,504
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From: ct
Those fingers move together, yours is broken, I've replaced all of those same components on my86.. from J&P CYCLE, no problems at all.
That flat head slotted screw is removed from the top of the inner primary, with oil tank removed on mine anyway. Use a magnet to remove the small pin where the spring is,and to reinstall it.take a pic first if needed.... GW
That flat head slotted screw is removed from the top of the inner primary, with oil tank removed on mine anyway. Use a magnet to remove the small pin where the spring is,and to reinstall it.take a pic first if needed.... GW
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Tourer
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 295
Likes: 26
From: Western CT
I appreciate all the replies. Yeah, mine's junk. $9.00 at J&P Cycles along with a boatload of extra crap on the list. I should have checked the fingers when I had the primaries off last fall. Damn. I put a new solenoid on and it's either junk or I fried it. new battery cable kit, primary chain, solenoid (if dead) and a bunch of misc crap. That's the wish list. Oh yes, a clutch hub puller too unless somebody can suggest a safe way of removing it without breaking stuff. 3 jaw maybe? I got one of those. Last fall the clutch hub slid right off 'cause the inner hubs' keyway was trashed. That's since been replaced by a new moco one.
Last edited by RedHogz; Mar 27, 2017 at 01:52 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 10,291
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From: West Central FL
Make sure the solenoid is shimmed properly against the inner primary. If it isn't it can bind causing it to fail to engage or disengage.
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Tourer
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 295
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From: Western CT
Excuse my ignorance but I've never heard of 'shimming the solenoid'. I've seen plenty of brackets that needed a gentle bend to get the solenoid to pull in straight when tightening, but what do you use to 'shim'?
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: ct
The spacer with the two holes in it that mounts behind the solenoid bracket should be sufficient. Make sure solenoid is not bent,install new foam o ring with new rubber boot and you should be golden !
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,007
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From: Ohio
I appreciate all the replies.
Oh yes, a clutch hub puller too unless somebody can suggest a safe way of removing it without breaking stuff. 3 jaw maybe? I got one of those. Last fall the clutch hub slid right off 'cause the inner hubs' keyway was trashed. That's since been replaced by a new moco one.
Oh yes, a clutch hub puller too unless somebody can suggest a safe way of removing it without breaking stuff. 3 jaw maybe? I got one of those. Last fall the clutch hub slid right off 'cause the inner hubs' keyway was trashed. That's since been replaced by a new moco one.
I made my own puller. Bought a steel metal 1/8"plate at Lowes. Drilled 4 holes matching the hubs just large enough so the hub screws would slide thru and screw into the hub. Do not tighten. Slide a wrench socket between the center of the steel plate and the shaft center. Finger tighten the screws. Then gradually tighten each hub screw a quarter turn ea until the hub pulls loose. Works great. Used it lots of times. Never broke anything.