The cheapest way to go.

 

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You better hope you're not a deep sleeper!!!!!

 

That's the wife's car, incentive to go to work. She luvs me for convenience.

 

You have a compression tester, you can check for leaking valves without a leakdown tester.

Use the hose from the compression tester, remove the schrader valve from the end that screws into the head, regulate your shop air down around 100psi,

Screw the hose in the cylinder your going to check.

Shift the bike into high gear, 5th or 6th, whatevers in there, rotate the tire while feeling for air blowing out the hose until it stops and starts sucking, back it up a little, your now around TDC.

Get a helper to hold the rear brake, or strap the brake pedal down tight, rear wheel off the ground.

Plug the shop air into the hose in the head and listen for air coming from intake and exhaust, should be very little to none.

Air will be coming from the engine breather past the rings, just wont know how much, but We're really just checking valves here.

Now, if you hear air getting past any valves, unplug the shop air, loosen the adjustable pushrods for that cylinder so the valves can't open, and plug in the shop air and test again, you don't really have to hold the brake as valves will be closed regardless of cam position.

If it leaked, then stopped after you loosened the pushrods, either there's a lifter problem, or the engine simply wasn't at TDC, or rolled over and opened a valve during the first test.

 

I fixed it.... I chased my tail for 2 weeks and kept going back to an intake leak. Last night I changed my intake seal for the 2nd time and I noticed a very small crack in the rubber boot covering my VOES port on the carb. I said earlier " It's something small " I'm not seeing. Bumped the start and ran Perfect. Wanted to thank all 2 people that at least tried to help.

 

So now that you have your motor fixed you still gonna get the 111????

 

Yes of coarse.

 

Guess I better get that $6 ready

 

Don't forget shipping.