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There are a couple of styles of replacement nipples out there.
On some (the kind I'd say you want), the surface you will be pressing on to press the nipple into the body of the carb is flat, giving you an easy surface to push on. Like this:
On others, that surface has something of a triangular cross section, making pressing it in a bit more of a fiddle.
Originally Posted by Big Panda
Yanking the carb is the part I'm not familiar with. How does it come off? I poked around and couldn't really tell how it was secured to the intake. also, If I am going to take the carb apart, is there anything I should replace, aside from the float? gaskets or anything?
I already checked the cap is venting and the hose isn't obstructed. I went for a ride today and left the petcock open after and it leaked gas right away, and plenty of it. Closed the petcock and instantly stopped. So it's gotta be the float bowl or that elbow.
The carb itself just hangs there. The black plastic backing plate from the air filter holder is what holds it on.
You have the FSM? Worth getting.
To get the carb off, remove the air filter cover and the filter. Then find the two rubber bungs that cover the two bolts that secure the air filter back plate to the heads (roughly at 2 and 10 o'clock). Pull the bungs out, then remove the allen bolts behind them. Then find the three allen bolts (brass looking ones this time) that secure the backing plate to the carb. These three are right around the intake. Remove those. When I do those, I do them each a little at a time and "walk" the back plate out with them, so they end up staying in the plate.
Once that's removed, there's nothing left holding the carb except the fuel line, the throttle cables, the VOES tube and the rubber gasket on the intake manifold.
THC is right. Sounds like your needle valve isn't sealing.
I'd get a new one (needle valve, that is). AND polish up the seat area with a q-tip as described. AND carefully set the float level when you install the new one. AND as long as you are in there, get a rebuild kit (which contains all the rubber bits) and replace all them. AND clean the whole business with carb cleaner.
You can get all the parts you need from CV Performance, eBay, etc. Your local MoCo dealer may have it also (they had the intake nipple when I needed mine).
So there's a drag specialty one, that's the only one I could find when mine was apart. It's a corner right where you want to press and it's hard to get it to go in straight. There's another version that's flat. It would have been much easier to get this one in. It's not impossible obviously but if you have the choice go flat it will save you some cursing. Here's some pics of what I mean
Also my dealer couldn't get the brass. They said they didn't exist. I'm not sure they knew what a carb was actually. Local Indy had them.
mine isn't broke, but if I had to change it out I don't know if I would trust a press fit I know it must work cause that's how it comes from the factory, is there a way to tap the carb and use screw in fittin?
mine isn't broke, but if I had to change it out I don't know if I would trust a press fit I know it must work cause that's how it comes from the factory, is there a way to tap the carb and use screw in fittin?
Sure. You could cut some pipe threads into the carb, then machine your own inlet, and hope that the threads seal when the nipple is pointing the right direction.
Or you could stick with the solution that works reliably on every single CV carb ever made.
Seriously, this is not a good idea. The press fit is fine.
The HD part number for the brass replacement fuel inlet L-joint is 27371-76A and it cost me about $11 back in 2013. I pulled the old one out using a 1/4" bolt threaded into the old fitting along with a nut and socket. There was a video showing that trick that I had watched. I put the new fitting in the freezer and then pressed it in using a vise. I had my doubts about doing this replacement but everything worked smoothly and it never leaked.
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