Oil Pan Bolt/Plug Question?
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 139
Likes: 94
From: New Hampshire
Oil Pan Bolt/Plug Question?
Finally had a chance to do my 1st oil change on my "new to me" 1997 Road King.
When I started to loosen the the bolt on the drain pan, it took almost no effort to loosen it but I had to use the ratchet to unthread the bolt almost all the way out as it was very snug until I could remove it the rest of the way with my fingers.
When I went to put the bolt back in, I noticed that it had three slots at the tip of the threads and it looked like there was some type of ball inserted there.
The bolt threaded all the way in easily with my fingers. I then put the ratchet on it started tightening it. It got started to get snug but by no means any kind of serious pressure. It then felt like it stripped. When i continued to turn it, it got kind of snug again, kind of like the tension that was originally on it when I first removed it, so I left it. I test rode it and there were no leaks.
Now panic stricken, I searched for solutions on the web last night. Found articles on 1/2-20 self tapping plugs and the same with piggyback plugs.
I picked up one of each on my way home today. I started to loosen the plug and it felt like it did yesterday, very snug, where I was going to have to use the ratchet the whole way out so I stopped and threaded it back in until just slightly snug again. At least I know that it won't vibrate out which is what I was worried about.
I decided to come here to ask if anyone knows anything about the bolt/plg that is in there now. Is this a certain type of plug with the ball bearing in it?
Does anyone know anything about it?
When I started to loosen the the bolt on the drain pan, it took almost no effort to loosen it but I had to use the ratchet to unthread the bolt almost all the way out as it was very snug until I could remove it the rest of the way with my fingers.
When I went to put the bolt back in, I noticed that it had three slots at the tip of the threads and it looked like there was some type of ball inserted there.
The bolt threaded all the way in easily with my fingers. I then put the ratchet on it started tightening it. It got started to get snug but by no means any kind of serious pressure. It then felt like it stripped. When i continued to turn it, it got kind of snug again, kind of like the tension that was originally on it when I first removed it, so I left it. I test rode it and there were no leaks.
Now panic stricken, I searched for solutions on the web last night. Found articles on 1/2-20 self tapping plugs and the same with piggyback plugs.
I picked up one of each on my way home today. I started to loosen the plug and it felt like it did yesterday, very snug, where I was going to have to use the ratchet the whole way out so I stopped and threaded it back in until just slightly snug again. At least I know that it won't vibrate out which is what I was worried about.
I decided to come here to ask if anyone knows anything about the bolt/plg that is in there now. Is this a certain type of plug with the ball bearing in it?
Does anyone know anything about it?
Last edited by grubsie; Jul 19, 2017 at 03:04 PM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
usually the plug in the end is a magnet to capture metal shavings. You mentioned it was wrench snug all the way out. Sounds to me like the threads are damaged somewhat on the end and when the damaged threads go into the pan you reach good threads that seem to loosen just before tightening the plug.
If it were me, I would drain the oil and use a mirror to check the pan threads. I would also look over the plug threads. if it is 1/2-20 that is standard fine for 1/2 and you should find a nut at the local hardware. Carry it in with you and see if it will thread easily into a standard fine nut. Or better yet they all have a thread gage hanging to help you determine the thread diameter and pitch. Try it in the stores thread gage. And finally, once you know what it is, buy a grade 8 bolt that you can run in the pan threads to maybe straighten up any damaged threads while you check to see how tight it turn into the pan.
If it were me, I would drain the oil and use a mirror to check the pan threads. I would also look over the plug threads. if it is 1/2-20 that is standard fine for 1/2 and you should find a nut at the local hardware. Carry it in with you and see if it will thread easily into a standard fine nut. Or better yet they all have a thread gage hanging to help you determine the thread diameter and pitch. Try it in the stores thread gage. And finally, once you know what it is, buy a grade 8 bolt that you can run in the pan threads to maybe straighten up any damaged threads while you check to see how tight it turn into the pan.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,658
Likes: 6,457
From: Honah Lee
I am guessing it is an oversized self-tapping plug where someone has stripped out the original 1/2-20 thread. Those slots are chip relief similar to a tap.
If you are careful and it tightens up, you should be OK. It being snug going up and back is a good sign since it means you have full thread. It just did not cut a few .0001 over like a real tap would do and make plug free. As long as it snugs when you bump it maybe few inch out at the end of the handle on a 3/8 short ratchet after snug, it will be fine. My guess is anything you screw in now that is standard will be too loose.
Just be real careful getting it straight and go in by hand carefully. If you get it crooked or offset, it will cut a new set of threads which of course will be very loose.
I am an X toolmaker way in the past before I became an engineer. If it was mine, I would carefully remove the 3 slots if the plug was long enough. However, I have jeweler files to make it right. Just get it straight.
Even torquing plugs in aluminum will strip tapped holes in plugs and inspection cover fasteners on these bikes. I just tweak them a little.
If you are careful and it tightens up, you should be OK. It being snug going up and back is a good sign since it means you have full thread. It just did not cut a few .0001 over like a real tap would do and make plug free. As long as it snugs when you bump it maybe few inch out at the end of the handle on a 3/8 short ratchet after snug, it will be fine. My guess is anything you screw in now that is standard will be too loose.
Just be real careful getting it straight and go in by hand carefully. If you get it crooked or offset, it will cut a new set of threads which of course will be very loose.
I am an X toolmaker way in the past before I became an engineer. If it was mine, I would carefully remove the 3 slots if the plug was long enough. However, I have jeweler files to make it right. Just get it straight.
Even torquing plugs in aluminum will strip tapped holes in plugs and inspection cover fasteners on these bikes. I just tweak them a little.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jul 19, 2017 at 03:29 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,658
Likes: 6,457
From: Honah Lee
Not sure on a 97 if you have a o-ring type MS fitting seal but if so, an insert or a helicoil will fix and seal this type of fitting without going to a washer gasket. Then, you need a good face and some MS fitting pans do not have a square large enough face.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 139
Likes: 94
From: New Hampshire
Got it fixed. I was able to get the bike up high enough to inspect the the threads. There were only a few threads deep inside.
I cut new threads with 1/2-20 self tapping plug using plenty of grease to catch any aluminum pieces by backing out after each full turn then using q-tips with grease to reach inside the hole to get the rest. Then installed the piggyback plug.
It's nice and tight and now all I have to do for an oil change is to remove the smaller piggy plug. The 1/2-20 part of the plug will never have to be removed ever again.
WooHoo!
I cut new threads with 1/2-20 self tapping plug using plenty of grease to catch any aluminum pieces by backing out after each full turn then using q-tips with grease to reach inside the hole to get the rest. Then installed the piggyback plug.
It's nice and tight and now all I have to do for an oil change is to remove the smaller piggy plug. The 1/2-20 part of the plug will never have to be removed ever again.
WooHoo!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,658
Likes: 6,457
From: Honah Lee
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,727
Likes: 3,073
From: Brighton, MI
If the threads are bad on the oil pan, you could always tap it to a metric 14mm x 1.25 or 1.50 thread pitch and skip the piggy back or oversized self tapping plugs. I hate those damn things and would rather tap it to a next larger size and use a real drain plug.
You can even get a metric drain plug (in that thread pitch) in a 19mm bolt head size. 19mm bolt head is also 3/4 (19.05mm) inch socket, so same wrench as the stock drain plug.
Can even with a magnet. See link below. YD
http://www.oildrainplug.com/
You can even get a metric drain plug (in that thread pitch) in a 19mm bolt head size. 19mm bolt head is also 3/4 (19.05mm) inch socket, so same wrench as the stock drain plug.
Can even with a magnet. See link below. YD
http://www.oildrainplug.com/
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Novice
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 21
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From: Atikokan, Ontario, Canada
Beware OEM new transmission drain plug bad. (made in china)
Beware
note: Messed up trans drain. Time-serted it (GREAT) Bought a new magnetic stock drain plug from HD to use. It would not fit or start. Suspected bad things with time-sert. Got out a 1/4-20 fine nut. Plug would not thread into it either. Got out my die set. Well well well plug would not fit the die either. Nor the neighbors die either. Plug covered with white stuff. Cleaned off all the white stuff. Still no fit. Ran the plug into the die. Die started cutting the second thread bringing off a thin sliver of a cutting, small but certainly enough to mess up these soft alloy case holes. Once the die was farther along maybe 3 1/2 or 4 threads all resistance went away and rest of threads were fine all the way to the o ring. This was a new plug. Now it fit the nuts, dies and low and behold the time-serted drain. Screwed in with only fingers all the way to the o ring. This is a fine thread (1/2x20 plug steel going to fit into soft alloy any defects (made in China plug) will mess up your case. I will be checking every plug and other old and NEW things before changing them. PS my bike came with messed up hole threads and this is the only time I have ever put the plug into the case (time-serted). The old original plug also found with twisted poor non fitting threads and probably caused the problem since new built.
note: Messed up trans drain. Time-serted it (GREAT) Bought a new magnetic stock drain plug from HD to use. It would not fit or start. Suspected bad things with time-sert. Got out a 1/4-20 fine nut. Plug would not thread into it either. Got out my die set. Well well well plug would not fit the die either. Nor the neighbors die either. Plug covered with white stuff. Cleaned off all the white stuff. Still no fit. Ran the plug into the die. Die started cutting the second thread bringing off a thin sliver of a cutting, small but certainly enough to mess up these soft alloy case holes. Once the die was farther along maybe 3 1/2 or 4 threads all resistance went away and rest of threads were fine all the way to the o ring. This was a new plug. Now it fit the nuts, dies and low and behold the time-serted drain. Screwed in with only fingers all the way to the o ring. This is a fine thread (1/2x20 plug steel going to fit into soft alloy any defects (made in China plug) will mess up your case. I will be checking every plug and other old and NEW things before changing them. PS my bike came with messed up hole threads and this is the only time I have ever put the plug into the case (time-serted). The old original plug also found with twisted poor non fitting threads and probably caused the problem since new built.
