Wanting More Power.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 177
Likes: 4
From: Keller, TX
Wanting More Power.
With out going too crazy and putting a big inch S&S motor in the bike, what are some good upgrades to look at for getting more power out of my 80" evo? I have considered making it an 89" stroker, or doing a big bore top end on it. what is the best bang for the buck upgrades to do? the bike is a 1995 heritage softail with an andrews EV3, Mikuni HSR42, Vance and Hines Big Shot Long pipes, and an Ultima single fire ignition.
Lets hear yalls thoughts. Thanks in advance.
Lets hear yalls thoughts. Thanks in advance.
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Ohio
80 cubes, 80/80 is a best bang for the buck, a 89" is the best budget motor for the buck, a S&S 111 has numbers off the chart for the price and a steal.
If you can change heads, pistons and adjust valves then the 80" is good, if you have to pay someone to split your cases to install a stroker 4 5/8 crank then you need to weigh the price of parts, labor, head work, you are getting close to S&S engine with a warranty.
A good running 80" is tough to beat and can take out a newer big cube engine but it can become worth 32 cents a pound if pushed too hard, a bigger cube engine is stretching it's legs compared to a 80" in giddy up. I ran a stock cased S&S flywheeled 89" for several years and didn't cut it much slack, will vouch one tough cookie plus a runner.
If you can change heads, pistons and adjust valves then the 80" is good, if you have to pay someone to split your cases to install a stroker 4 5/8 crank then you need to weigh the price of parts, labor, head work, you are getting close to S&S engine with a warranty.
A good running 80" is tough to beat and can take out a newer big cube engine but it can become worth 32 cents a pound if pushed too hard, a bigger cube engine is stretching it's legs compared to a 80" in giddy up. I ran a stock cased S&S flywheeled 89" for several years and didn't cut it much slack, will vouch one tough cookie plus a runner.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Poolville
You can do a 10:1 setup with Wiseco pistons bored .030" over, a set of stage II heads and a Woods W6 cam to compliment that Mik 42 and a good 2-1 pipe and still keep it @ $3k if you do all the wrenching.. Should put you in the mid 80"s and keep the reliability of the motor.... Best build I've seen for an 80"er. cal Scott at Hillside. He does that setup real well.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Bedford UK
I've been through the mill chasing performance, including an 89" stroker upgrade. That can be quite expensive, as for example the stock big-end conrod bearings routinely go out of round and need to be corrected. That is roughly where the cross-over comes, as a new bolt-in engine gives a much bigger boost in performance for not much more money, as Bagger points out above. I now have an S&S 107", predecessor of the 111", so be warned where this can take you!
The so-called big-bore kits are no more than fresh cylinders with max rebore size pistons, although with a higher than stock CR. Probably cheaper to rebore your current cylinders and fit new pistons. Bear in mind that Evos don't have the spare metal around the cylinder mouths to open them up, in the same way a twincam can be, so we are limited in how we can chase cubic inches.
The so-called big-bore kits are no more than fresh cylinders with max rebore size pistons, although with a higher than stock CR. Probably cheaper to rebore your current cylinders and fit new pistons. Bear in mind that Evos don't have the spare metal around the cylinder mouths to open them up, in the same way a twincam can be, so we are limited in how we can chase cubic inches.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Poolville
That's correct Graham, to go big bore which would be 3.625" bore you would have to open up (bore) the cases.... If you decide to do that you might as well stroke it which at that point will put you into a new S&S V111"er cost wise....
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Jul 28, 2017 at 08:49 AM.
And if you're replacing a good Evo motor, and can shoot vids of it running, and vids of you doing a compression test on it, it should bring $2k-ish money on eBay. So your net cost on the 111 goes to $3k.
Unless you're dedicated to matching numbers and originality, the availability of that 111 at that price seems a compelling alternative.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 177
Likes: 4
From: Keller, TX
Haha... If I go too much power I try to get crazy.. I would like to keep the stock numbers on the bike. My dad bought the bike new when I was 8 or 9 and I finally got it from him last year. the bike was very well taken care of. We went on a ride last month with a bunch of people all having newer bikes and while mine would keep up you could tell it did not have the torque of the newer bigger inch motors esp when pulling hills. While it is a strong motor I would like to squeeze a little more out of her.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Bedford UK
You've spoiled your post count - we'l have to wait until 131 comes up now - JIMS makes one of them!!!
Joking aside and having thought about it, the single best thing you can do is to swap your current exhaust for something like a SuperTrapp Supermeg. A 2-into-1 will significantly boost low/mid range torque, which your current pipes are stealing. They are no more than drag pipes dressed up a bit and cannot give you decent street performance. If you decide to make further changes down the line, the SuperTrapp will continue to give you excellent performance - I have one on my S&S 107, with over 100HP/100TQ - it's great!
Joking aside and having thought about it, the single best thing you can do is to swap your current exhaust for something like a SuperTrapp Supermeg. A 2-into-1 will significantly boost low/mid range torque, which your current pipes are stealing. They are no more than drag pipes dressed up a bit and cannot give you decent street performance. If you decide to make further changes down the line, the SuperTrapp will continue to give you excellent performance - I have one on my S&S 107, with over 100HP/100TQ - it's great!
