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I gotta say that i only buy motorcycles from the moco. The big but, BUT the last bsttery i swapped was still working this April and it was from 2007. I only figured it would strand me, so i add this to the previous post about buying only a quality battery.
Sorry to leave you all hanging. My daughter was hit by a car and I didn't have the time or urgency to look into my baggers electrical issues. But the other night after we got her home and safe, I went down and tried to figure it out. Hooked up a multimeter and had a 1 amp draw. Started pulling fuses and connections with no change. Brand new Duralast Gold battery charged 100%. I was so frustrated at this point I just went to hook up the battery fully without worrying about the spark I knew was coming and when I did, with the key fully off, the bike made a sound like it wanted to turn over for a split second, but real slow. I took the neg lead off and checked the battery and draw and the battery showed 12.7 and the draw was gone. WTF? Is there something internal that would cause a parasitic draw?
Long story long, I hooked it back up, checked the voltage at 2k and got 14.8. New charging system is good. I'm so lost as to what the problem was or if it's going to come back but it's running fine with no issues for 3 days now.
Glad to hear that your Daughter is OK!! I've gotten a few of those calls....
If your bike has a radio, There should be a fuse in the back of the radio that you can pull. I doubt it's causing your troubles, but worth having a look at. A radio will pull some draw to keep the unit's memory (clock, preset stations, and such)
I was so frustrated at this point I just went to hook up the battery fully without worrying about the spark I knew was coming and when I did, with the key fully off, the bike made a sound like it wanted to turn over for a split sec
Sure glad the kiddo is home and safe now.
This is the part of your post that got my attention. First thing across my mind was a starter solenoid hanging up just a little or its winding's
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