EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Crank Position Sensor

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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 06:38 PM
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Default Crank Position Sensor

So finally got the Crank Position Sensor in for my 98 RK. Looks completely different than the one that was in it. Is it as simple as swapping out the plug & using the old spacer block???

Old one looks like this one...



New one...






 
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 07:12 PM
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I think I would send that back. It doesn't look right to me. Too many differences. 3 pins v. 2, and the distance between the end of the sensor and the cog teeth when installed is critical.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 07:40 PM
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yea no way are they the same!
one plug is round the other rectangle! 3 vs 2 pins!!
Send it back!
 
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 07:43 PM
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That's what I was thinking too, but wanted to make sure it wasn't another situation like I ran into with cam position sensor. The website claims it's the right one, but I figured I'd ask y'all before I messed up a $100 piece. Thanks fellas.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 07:53 PM
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JP has it for $95:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/3000...osition-sensor

And if you want to experiment, this is like $40:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....426070&jsn=405
 

Last edited by Dr.Hess; Aug 7, 2017 at 07:57 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 08:00 PM
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The one I have is the S&S 55-1051, same one in the J&P link.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 08:32 PM
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The one in the J&P link looks like the one you took off, not like the one you got. Did they send the wrong one?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 08:38 PM
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The one in top pic is one that's on bike. I stole that pic from a used one I found on eBay. The one I just got in mail today is same one JP has.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 09:29 AM
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The question then is: Can you mount the new one in the hole and have it bolt in and have the end of it at exactly the same place as the original one? If not, I'd send it back. Plugs can be spliced, although sensor plugs like that can be a problem because the signal is shielded.

Is the part NLA from the MoCo?

What is wrong with your original sensor? Have you checked it with an ohm meter? The part that usually fails on them is the wire breaks inside the insulation, either at the plug end or at the sensor end. With some careful analysis, you might be able to find the break and splice it back together.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 09:44 AM
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The wires got too close to rear cylinder exhaust & melted together. Tried splicing already but since bike still not running right, & now fuel pump not priming, I'm assuming it's the Crank sensor.
As for making this one work, I didn't want to chance throwing $100 out the window by even trying it until I heard from someone that had already experienced the same thing. I ran into this with the Cam position sensor, but it actually worked out (I think).

Every place I've looked is saying this is correct part, but it's so different from the original, I was just skiddish to try it
 
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