Do the sticky... 9 times out of ten it's the stator... A/C voltage test of the stator @2000 RPM should read 33-36 volts a/c. If not check for opens or short to ground......

 

The sticky will point you straight to the root problem, and this sure seems like a stator.

 

pretty much failed every test in the sticky. Found a kit for $130 to replace the stator (32amp), rotor, and regulator. So I'm just replacing it all. http://www.ebay.com/itm/350913487780

 

I've tried some of those cheaper kits..... NOBODY makes a better system than Cycle Electric don't waste your money... Do not use an impact to tighten the crankshaft pulley nut.. the dead blows can weeken the magnets of the rotor....

 

I cant pay $500 for parts....JP Cycles has the kit for my bike is $494. Also, what size is the compensator pulley nut? Isn't it like 1 1/2?

 

I believe it's 1 3/8" on that crank nut. Also you don't have to go to J P Cycle to get it. There's other places that you can get Cycle Electric rotor and stator. You probably don't need the regulator so you could probably get the whole thing for around $225. Call your local Indy. I'm sure he'll set it right...

 

I don't have an indy in my small town (closed down a few years ago), and closest hd dealer is about 50 miles away.

The cheaper kit is already ordered and has a 1 year warranty. the CE kit only has a 2 year. I'm going to risk it.

 

Just keep your old parts (regulator and rotor, in particular).

My money is that they are fine.

 

Take a close look at that rotor thickness, where it mounts on to the crankshaft I believe that style is not going to work. It's going to push your gear out further and change the alignment on your primary chain. Make sure you match it up with the old one. I ran into that once before with that style shielded magnet rotor.... I believe the OEM rotor is right around 1/8 to 3/16" thick...

 

1 1/2" compensator nut and 1 3/16" clutch hub nut.